Canski

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can you not use 600 mm DPC ?

Which my l sister says doesn't cover you if you move in prior to completion

I have always took my sandwiches to work in a sandwich box. Any wrappers or waste goes back in the box and goes home with me and sometimes on the way home I empty the car door bins into it as well.I just can't get it into my head why nobody else can do this. Empty bottles and cans strewn across the site boil my piss. I did empty a mortar tub full of them into the back of the roofers van before they left one day and I wasn't very popular. Tea drinkers and their discarded tea bags are another breed as well. Where do they think they go after being left on the side of the kettle. It's for this reason that the microwave I bought for site is still at my other house. As for wheelbarrows and wasted plasterboard let's not go there 😞 (If you couldn't tell) after a year on site I am now officially fed up with tradesmen.

Hi All, I'm nearing completion and need to move in soon due to my current place being rented from mid July. I have read somewhere here but can't find it again that some of you managed to get home insurance on your new builds prior to obtaining a completion certificate. My ( hard sell) sister who is an insurance broker thinks (99%) that this is not possible and suggested that I ask you lovely guys and gals where you got your insurance from.

Landowners liability according to my hard sell sister who is an insurance broker.

I used the aluminium capping that Russel is referring to. Not cheap but I will be looking at it for a long time. Easy to fit and looks great I think. I didn’t go for epdm but it’s the same principle.

Against the inside then a vapour barrier on the inside

that won't work 1 in 12 is 8.33 mm per m.. oh no its not is it?. brain fog here

Did Building Control pass this in the end. I still have my problem. I came out 1200 mm at a fall of 1 in 40 and still need to dive down 150 mm to meet the drive. I'm considering a step but this seems to defeat the object.

I'm glad you had a good outcome. My initial quote was for £4300 and then I had delays (invisible bats) I couldn't proceed with the first quote and it expired. My next quote was £16500. I felt that I had no choice but to proceed as I needed power. When the dust has settled I will write a complaint to OFGEN but I don't expect any results.

Confused ....You had shown it in the back garden on your plan ?

....and you don't need a chamber for a rodding eye. A rodding eye on its own would suffice.

A friend of mine thinks he has rodents eating his modern PIR insulation in a cottage roof that he has renovated.

As long as the level is used the right way round. 😀

I have had to install one car charger and make provision for the installation of 2 more. I got planning through after the June 22 deadline.

On this subject I have a similar entrance. 1585 mm wide and 1350 to the front. My problem is that I need to slope the path quite steeply at some point to meet the levels of the integral garage which has a floor level 120 mm lower than the house FFL. I plan to build a dwarf wall 675 mm long on the right hand side of the doorway to give me a bit more distance to match the levels up. Is there a rule stating the distance that the ‘level’ part needs to be before it can drop away at a steeper gradient ? I have become a bit obsessed recently looking at entrances on various new builds where the level part is about a metre long before a step. Photo isn’t the best but should give an idea of the problem.

Have a look at Litecast GT systems. I used it on mine and it was easy to install.Be wary who you choose for the slab pour though. They caused me some headaches on one of the two houses.

I still have them. How many do you need and when ?

As the title I have successfully laid tiles to my kitchen / family room but after knocking out the clips some have not snapped off cleanly and will need removing before grouting. 2 - 3 mm joints. What’s the best way of removing these without damaging the tiles ?

Luckily I had severn trent do a masterclass in reinstatement

do you mean half what you pay for ditra ? I used Ardex AF 200 plus to stick my Ditra down. I wasn't very impressed with either the coverge or the efficiency. I presume you use tile adhesive ?

I did my own percolation tests and it was immediately obvious that a soakaway was not going to cut it. It’s quite a simple test that involves digging a 30 cm cube in the ground then filling it with water and measuring the results. The exact procedure you will find on google. soil samples can be sent away for quite a cheap analysis.

Once you go thinner than 100 mm the labour price will start to rise. thinner blocks are less stable during construction so they take longer to lay.

Yes it is a PITA for brickies. But if you can’t increase your cavity size and need to meet the design criteria you are stuck with it.