Canski

Would you have preferred the dirty edge ?

You can with loft legs. I got mine from Wickes. 300mm legs gave me 400mm of insulation below. Solid as a rock. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Loft-Flooring-XL-300mm-Raised-Floor-Legs---Pack-of-12/p/167598

We moved in on 5th July this year 12 months on from the start of demolition of the old house. The main build flowed well ( its my day job) and we were waterproof on the two houses by last Christmas. Then the finishings started and things slowed down and we were unable to move in until July. Waking up and not having to travel to site made it all worth it. It rapidly turned into a home. I had gained an extra hour and a half a day to do all those tomorrow jobs. We are not finished by any means we just need :- Heating A driveway The garden office completed Sign off from BC and the warranty company Then a million finishing things. It's all quite relaxed at the moment.

You are correct. I didn’t realise it was an internal corner. If you still have reservations you could send me a copy of the plans and I will check it all for brick dims.

Half a brick is 102.5 and with a perp 112.5 mm 910 and 1023mm are door opening sizes. I’m not sure why you would want to match an internal door width.

If it’s less than a half then use header 3/4 it doesn’t look good though and should be avoided if possible. The donkey that designed your openings at 1200 mm is in the dark ages and has problems adapting. You could go for either 1135 opening or 1248 but the latter gives you a half which will prevent you getting the window central over your doors. If you get your brick dims correct then you would have no problem using the stooled cills at 205 mm longer than the opening width.

It’s only a few mm but it does make a difference ( said my ex wife) 2915 overall would be better. 552 each side of the door and an 1810 structural opening. Above 890 brick pillar and 1135 opening. Also the overall measurement of 6750 would be better at 6740. Trust me I’m a bricky. 😜

in my last house I did my drive in 20 mm black basalt and will be using it here in the gap between the paving and the house. On my previous drive I put a very thin layer on to my MOT then whacked it in then topped up to a max of 40 mm deep. It was solid.

LABC were not competitive in my case.

160m2 x 60 = approx 9600 bricks mine were £800/1000 so £7680 for bricks. I allow £6 per m2 for mortar and ties so £ 960 then there’s the labour…On one offs I charge just short of £1 per brick plus extras for lintels so £9600 total is £18240. That leaves you around £10 k to stick them and point them. Hope this helps.

You were lucky I could have slid a 6’ level under a 6’ level on mine. It’s tiled now and nearly forgotten.

cut a horizontal 4 x 1 timber 10 mm short of the opening width and prop it off the cill taking care not to push the lintel up. Then lay the blocks over the top leave for a day then remove.

If your slab has a DPM beneath it then no need to add another DPC above below internal walls.

Normal ties don’t allow for movement. In a movement joint you need slip ties.

Hell no 🙂

it includes payments to CIS contractors

always required over external openings

if it was mine I would put a wraparound DPC below the beam and block and bring it up the external face of the masonry and back in on top of the marmot block below the sole plate.

Nod I'm supposed to pay it and don't have 7 employees and never did have. Plenty of subbies but only 2 or 3 on the books. Anyway it is a cost that is easily calculated after the event but not one that can be calculated prior to paying the subcontractors so in a way it could be chargeable. https://www.citb.co.uk/levy-grants-and-funding/citb-levy/about-the-citb-levy/#apply

These details send brickies round the bend. Ideally the PIR should be cut at an angle to facilitate the cavity tray to be sloping towards the outside skin allowing water to flood out of the weep vents. In the real world it is difficult to achieve without creating voids in the insulation between cuts.

I’m having the same problem. How did you solve it ?

I recently installed a 150 duct with an erbauer core bit from screw fix. It went through fine. Jeez that fan sucks. You could dry your hair under the cooker hood. Mine also came with a 150 tip 100 reducer and I’m glad I tossed it away and went full bore.

All the blocks I have laid in the last 20 years have been narrow and short.

Roll of 600 mm hyload and some tape for the corners. He will be happy with that. I can’t think of another way to do it to be honest. Pre formed cavity trays are for stepped flashings.