Canski

3 to 4 mm in 1200mm on mine. I managed to pull a bit out. I hope it holds. I would have had no chance of laying them brick bond.

i dont think you will pull the bow in the tiles out.

Thanks. One less job to do 😀

I’m dreading my next 100m2 delivery. I need to get them down before it gets hot. It’s hard enough in winter.

Hi all. Tiling time for me now. I have fitted Ditra matting to the whole area ready for tiling but have one big question. Do I need to prime the top of the ditra before applying tile adhesive ? I am laying 1200 x 600 porcelain tiles which have approx 3 mm curve in them so to avoid lippage I am laying them stack bond. I don’t personally like the third or 25 % bond. Maybe because I’m a brickie it’s either half bond or no bond Flemish isn’t an option 😂

They work on a computer says yes basis.

That's the easy bit -)

Photos as promised.

I'd go for the smaller one central. You will still get plenty of light but may regret it if it's not central. I had a battle to get mine in the centre but glad I did. Phone just died on me so photos later.

I fitted 2 14 inch Velux in to mine and none in the identical house next door. The difference is like night and day ! I am on site I'll post some photos soon. I don't regret it for a minute.

The ecologists. They have a vivid imagination.

been there and got the £6.5 k t shirt. Do not leave them unattended.

I am feeling your pain.

I have about 20 heras fence panels (some good and some not so good) and feet that will be coming down towards the end of the month if anyone on here is interested.

I can’t see that it’s correct. I would never do this. Grab your beam and block plans for this area and post a copy here. Don’t rely on BC. Rely on build hub 😜

Do you have a copy of the beam and block drawing ?

If there’s a cavity in that then the inner skin looks like it will be resting on the block. That’s a no no.

I wouldn't unless it was calculated at design stage. I have built non load bearing walls off double or treble beams but the loads were designed in.

not to mention the verges

For some unknown reason I have been left with about a 20 - 30 mm gap at the bottom between my tile backer board and shower trays. What is the best way to fill these prior to tiling ? Some are onto stud and others are on to blockwork.

I built my two houses to joist using 12 Planks and 16 trestles. Then I had it scaffolded. I don't care what people say we didn't have one injury from people hitting their heads on scaffold clips.

Since the photos were taken there has been a lot of traffic and debris on the floors and now its all been swept up the cracks are no longer noticeable. The cemfloor had fibres in it so I am confident it will hold together ok. When I get my laser back from the lads I will do a survey of the floor and if there are only a few high spots I'll try and grind them out with a stihl saw and see if I can get somewhere near.

Thanks Nod I have the transformer and leads. I was planning on setting the laser up and dipping the whole floor prior to the battle to highlight the high spots. What do you think about the raised aggregates ?

Some of you may remember the cock up of a cemfloor that I had pumped in last year with dips and cracks etc. Well now the time to get it flat is coming near and I need to start thinking about getting it flat prior to tiling and wood flooring. I have a couple of areas ( around 5m2) that are about 15 mm low and a bump in the middle ( around 3 m2) that is around 10 mm high. In addition to this the whole surface has stones sticking up around 2 - 3 mm above the flat surface of the concrete. I intend to use a decoupling membrane under the tiling and an approved underlay under the engineered oak flooring. My questions are :- What machine have you guys used to grind the floors down ? Will I do it in a day ( 85 m2) ? I’d like to use a window of opportunity given to me by a delay in my plasterers returning. Would it be ok to level the floor using levelling compound between the raised aggregates after removing the high spots or should I try to grind them out ?

Some of you may remember the cock up of a cemfloor that I had pumped in last year with dips and cracks etc. Well now the time to get it flat is coming near and I need to start thinking about getting it flat prior to tiling and wood flooring. I have a couple of areas ( around 5m2) that are about 15 mm low and a bump in the middle ( around 3 m2) that is around 10 mm high. In addition to this the whole surface has stones sticking up around 2 - 3 mm above the flat surface of the concrete. I intend to use a decoupling membrane under the tiling and an approved underlay under the engineered oak flooring. My questions are :- What machine have you guys used to grind the floors down ? Will I do it in a day ( 85 m2) ? I’d like to use a window of opportunity given to me by a delay in my plasterers returning. Would it be ok to level the floor using levelling compound between the raised aggregates after removing the high spots or should I try to grind them out ?