DavidFrancis

Thanks for the replies. Didn't know HG did a grout cleaner. Will give that a try. My memery's not great, but I seem to remember trying bleach before with little success, although perhaps I need to have a go leaving it on for longer.

The grout in our shower enclosure has discoloured in a number of places. Was thinking of removing it and putting in new grout. Anyone have suggestions for easy(ier) removal of the existing grout? Was thinking of using a multitool with a carbide blade. Have used a stanley knife in the past for smaller sections but that was a right PITA. Having read the HG mould spray bottle earlier today, they reckon hypo (sodium thiosulpate) will get rid of brown staining. Anyone tried this?

I helped to install a rubber roof on a shed. It was very straightforward. It was a ClassicBond EPDM membrane.

If you've got water between one pane and another, it's probably not to do with the beading. More likely the seal on that unit (the material between the two panes) has failed. I've read that using acetoxy silicone to bed the panes can cause this problem, but there's probably a few other causes besides. (Everbuild say their acetoxy silicone should not be used near the edge sealant of double-glazed units.)

How long since those windows were last painted? If it was four or five years, then they don't look too bad to me. In the pictures of the beading you've posted they look OK too. I've used both Bedec MSP and Johnstones, and think Bedec is much better. Huge faff with the Johnstones, with primer, undercoat and topcoat. I regularly have to repaint our cills and bottom beads on exposed windows. Don't know about the cracks on the wide sections of wood. Could they be plywood?

This article covers woodworm in some depth: https://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/woodworm/woodworm.htm

Don't know if the contents of this is stuff you already know. https://www.historicenvironment.scot/archives-and-research/publications/publication/?publicationId=bd396452-624b-4b87-9ae4-a59500b4dff4

@Temp- apologies. Didn't notice your post when posting. Seem to have the same answer, but yours was more comprehensive.

According to this story https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-45112872 the government does not intend to impose tariffs on most goods. Looking at the table at https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/temporary-rates-of-customs-duty-on-imports-after-eu-exit I can find little, if any, construction-related things listed. So I reckon leaving with no deal will make NO DIFFERENCE to the cost of building-related goods imported from EU countries as far as tariffs are concerned. The exchange rate risk is a different matter!

We're currently paying £22/month to Plusnet. This covers line rental, broadband (about 13 Mbps), and all "anytime" calls to landlines and mobiles.

A house near us got some new flush windows about three years ago. Liked the look of them, so called in to see where they got them from. It was only when I got to about three feet away that I could tell they were not wood and that was only because of the glazing bars. They were Residence 9.

As I said above, I've no plumbing experience, but... It sounds like your radiators need balancing, but they could also be bunged up. I had a problem with our radiators and did a survey on them with an IR thermometer: left, middle and right at both top and bottom - thinking that if they were very sludged-up, the bottom middle reading might be much less than the others. (All radiators on full and boiler running for an hour.) Anyhow, the differences in overall temperatures led me to fiddle with some of the lockshields and now have things running OK. Have had a magnetic filter installed and did run the system with a cleaner for a couple of weeks and this might have contrubuted too!

I've got a previous version of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Salus-RT510RF/dp/B072KL746L/ref=sr_1_1?adgrpid=52787712865&hvadid=259071927018&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9046536&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=18112310960691005442&hvtargid=aud-613328383199%3Akwd-296995634591&keywords=salus+rt500rf&qid=1554979521&s=gateway&sr=8-1 The thermostat sits about 10m from the receiver with walls and doors in between. It's worked fine for quite a few years. This could solve part of your problem. I think there's quite a few other makers of wireless thermostats. If you have the installers' instructions for your boiler, or can find them online, they might show you how to control the heating and hot water separately. I have no plumbing experience and next-to-no electrical knowledge, but I managed to wire up my Salus without any problems.

Any one used the insulated roof "beams", or something quite similar, the couple used for their roof? How did the cost compare to a more conventional roof of rafters and insulation? TIA.

Just picking up on @PeterW's comment in your other thread, I've used two types of Floplast gutter and on both needed to trim the edge off the actual gutter to get it to fit in the plain brackets/union brackets. Beware.

Another user of Sadolin Classic on what is, effectively, a large fascia. Been on nearly seven years and was thinking of doing another coat this summer on the exposed face. The sheltered face still looks fine.

The actual RICS press release doesn't seem as "traumatic" as the BBC's take on it. See https://www.rics.org/uk/news-insight/latest-news/press-releases/residential-market-survey-december-2018/ And price expectations for NW England are still on the rise, so you're OK!

Been watching a few of these recently. It's a US series where, I think, they usually look at renovations, but the last series on Home has been a new factory-made house. I find it far more interesting than the UK series as they go into some detail on many aspects of the build. For example, showing you how to lay out and attach shingles (not that I can ever imagine wanting to use shingles!). They can do this as they cover each job over a number (many?) programmes. The house in the current series was wrapped in Raindrop 3D, which Kingspan don't seem to sell in the UK. This appears to allow you to clad directly on to it (without using battens), as its surface has drainage channels. On another programme I've seen them using a plastic mesh over a membrane rather than battens. Last week they poured the walls of an open-sided basement and unless I misheard they shuttered and poured all in one day. They used reusable shuttering. Terminology is different too. Building code rather than regulations, R values rather than U values, different term for MVHR (but can't remember what). It looks like Home may not be showing any more in the current run, but I've watched some from season 40 online. PS I have absolutely nothing to do with the programmes, UKTV, or Kingspan. Just found them interesting and could find only one very specific reference to them on here

@scottishjohn nod is referring to Metsec studs, not British Gypsum ones. Look at their web site - they do structural studs.

Why not turn off the hot water tank for an extended period to see what happens. I used to turn off my combi in the summer and used a kettle for washing up water. The washing machine can probably heat the water it needs. (Used to shower at the gym/swimming pool in case anyone is concerned!)

If you put a wall plate on the end wall you won't be able to fit the posi-joist to that wall, as the plate will then be in the way, from what I remember. If you moved the plate along so that it abuts the end wall, would the resulting 50mm(?) gap in the middle cause a problem? But couldn't you just fit the last joist to the end of the plate as it currently stands? Aren't you putting 18mm OSB on top? It's not going to flex with a 50mm overhang, especially with a whole load of PIR on top of that. And the roof's not going to have any load on it except for someone up there clearing the drain hole!

I've wondered about that too!

Thanks @nod What about the doors themselves - and even the metal framing?

@AliMcLeodwhen I switched to Bulb they were the cheapest decently-rated supplier that MSE listed. But Bulb were going to increase our direct debit by 20-odd quid (a month) in November so I checked-out MSE again and I think the BG deal was the second cheapest of those suppliers that had a customer service rating, so the boiler cover is more-or-less free. I had a big problem with BG about 10 years ago and I've seen horror stories since, so I know I'm taking a bit of a gamble.

@nod where did you get the parts from? I'm probably going to have to make up a replacement built-in wardrobe in the next few months and I live not far from you. Thanks