Construction Channel

And the prize goes to Jeremy ?. There are more bricks to be laid but that was the last one that mattered. Now I can get it scaffolded properly and finish the roof. Then finish the inside, move in and have babies. But it I really am glad that is over. I'll check the dates when I start making the video later but I would guess it has taken me nearly a full year to clad that house in bricks.

Guess what

I was thinking something finer like sharp sand would work well. Or even rice....... if you could let it run long enough. ?

You could always tumble mill them in the washing machine while she is out. ?

Thanks for the input guys. in our case, this will be a bit of a downside as a normal (center pivot) handle will be easier for us to use. not really, they are the only windows we have upstairs but TBH I can't see myself actually hanging out of them very often. Iv never had any hence the question but I can't imagine its very often my thoughts exactly yes, but it is next to the road so noise would be an issue. I think after having slept on it and reading your responses i think we will just go for 2 top hung for MOE, there is quite a big difference in price so I could get higher spec ones if I keep the majority center pivot, Next question, Does anyone know where to get cheap Keylite flashing kits? and or opinions on Keylite or Velux? Iv fitted both and they seem very similar but have any of you got a strong opinion either way?

I am at the stage where i need to start looking at ordering the rooflights, I need 6 in total and as 4 of them are in bedrooms i need at least 2 of them to be top hung, my question is does anyone actually use the top hung ability so you can stand in them, or could you have got away with center pivots which are cheaper? the top of my windows are about 1.8m so a top hung would mean i could stand in them quite happily but are they worth the extra cost? any opinions welcome TIA Ed

Have you read through this? this is the summary of another much longer thread about CDM 2015. If that's the kind of thing you are interested in it might be a good place to get involved. Ed

you have made such a nice job of that i recon you could turn your hand to almost anything....... have you considered fitting bathrooms?

I think you are all (with exceptions) being a bit harsh to B52. I should think he has gone to the trouble of starting a brand new thread about this to try and be helpful, by sharing something he had to use in his professional life. shame on you all...... that said I am going to steal this picture for work tomorrow and generally tap it whenever I need to lift anything if all the lifters are twisting more than 45 deg a bag of cement on the floor becomes a 5 man lift.... or 7 if it's more than 8" away

She doesn't own one as such but she knows where they are kept. She also knows how much of a mess I would make of the floor to get them off. I can only imagine the carnage if it were to happen before I have had a coffee.

Is it just a coincidence that Faye was the barmaid? ?? and although I can see the usefulness of the book for others. For me it would just show me how much I am not paying myself.

you lazy b*stards theres 90 odd teeth on my chains and it still only takes a few minutes to sharpen them, even quicker with a dremel attachment.

looks fairly all encompassing. couple of Q's what is the PC column for? and how do you incorporate the cavity closing? or are those per linear meter? edit : it quite clearly says m in the unit column and you say those are london prices so i would only get half of the end column, or do i only half the labour cost?

i can see the value in it for estimating, would you be willing to share what the base price is for a sq meter of concrete blocks?

it matters if they are offering day rate I quite like this area not being in the outer London price bracket. Them city folk pay crazy money for everything

how many sq meters can they lay a day?

it will all depend how much lumping /loading out is involved, but i would say 2-300 /layer/day should be a fair estimate

very interesting.... have you considered amtico / karndean

fair enough, and the other questions? are you looking for multiple finishes ?

what is stopping you from aiming at the joists? you don't often see anything below 45mm with some bare shank, Reiser for example are fully threaded until they get to 60mm IIrc

What areas of the house is this in? What look are you going for? Why didnt you you go for wet UFH?

Kits are cheating, I'm thinking all hand welded, controlled by some RPi's and a non apple branded iPad ;p

Build a digger you say. How hard can it be ....... I recon @Onoff is the man for the job

I think the usual phrase would be, "yeah she's already in the hole, how are you planning to get home from the wake?"

I prefer real wood for the linings as it is nicer to work with and holds the hinge better ( at least I feel it does). Everything else I would use MDF as long as you are painting it. No raised grain. No cupping. No knots showing through. It's pre primed. Only disadvantage is it's technically easier to damage on the corners but realistically once the house is actually being lived in no one is going to notice the external corners on your skirting. ?