Construction Channel

If i can't chew it i don't class it as food

Hmmmm I do like a bit of granola, perhaps i should give it a go,..... are you eating it in a bar or a bowl?

Looks very nice indeed, I cant see the fixings at all but i assume they look good to

If i can get in by March i will be a happy boy. the deadline is June but there is nothing saying I couldnt put a few more hours in each evening to get myself ahead

It is indeed. I was so impressed with one we fitted on the last job I decided to get one for myself, should make a real difference to the bathroom as it doesn't have any other windows. https://www.roofingoutlet.co.uk/collections/velux-sun-tunnels/products/velux-tlr-0k14-2010-14-rigid-sun-tunnel-for-slate In fairness i take the labourer out at least once every weekend, although this weekend we ended up at a friends BBQ so i cooked her my current favourite, Fillet steak in a camenbert. its a heart attack waiting to happen but well worth trying

Without a doubt. maybe not xmas 2017 but hopefully before the next one

Yay ?

Do you need it to ventilate or just for some light? If you only need light. You could adapt a light tunnel of some form as they go down to 10" square. That said you would have to try and find a second hand one as they are £200+ New.

should be easy enough, Is it one of the new ones with the 2" foam surround, If so I cant help with that part but the rest should be mainly held together with screws, there are only 2 clips that come undone fairly easy that i know of, at least on mine there were

as @Bitpipe said, 203 and 133 are dimensions in mm UKB means Universal Beam (not sure about the K) and the 30 is how many Kg it weighs per meter

Dare i ask what brought this on? or are you saving it for the blog?. usually plumb is sorted with a 4' level at either end (unless they are using profiles) then brick line is strung between the corners as described above the most common reason for you to get a belly in the wall is that they are laying the bricks touching the line, so each one pushes it a little further out, or you often hear that the insulation is pushing the blocks out. but as you are using ICF i doubt the latter is what you are suffering from. the main issue i found is that "to stereotype horrifically" most bricklayers are glorified monkeys barely capable of playing jenga, as for checking their work get a set of brick pins and bang them in either end and put a 10mm spacer behind the line, then go and see how much space there is behind the line in the middle

I agree with Oz, its cheaper in the long run to get it ready mixed, also a slab that size will probably want either reinforcment mesh (A147 or similar) or an expansion joint, or both, IIRC 6m is the magic number for expansion joints, so if it were me i would put one half way along the 10m length If you do still want to mix it by hand i would say 5:1 should be fine.

hmmm, not too sure about fitting it in the vice as i took that off a long time ago. but yes it will cut all but the last little bit, (the bottom corner furthest away from the fence)

almost but not quite. it leaves about 3/4 of an inch in the bottom corner which you can easily just snap of turn it over to finish off. I have been very impressed with it in general, especially as i had snapped headers in my wall, Faye was quite happy to cut a lot of the bricks for me and every one came out square.(which a lot of people struggle to do with a paddy saw) also it survived a fall from the scaffolding, bent the bed a little but not so much to affect its performance.

why yes I did and it was nowhere near that price, it was about £240 IIRC with the extra diamond blade, But im not too sure it would be the best tool for the job if the stones are any bigger than brick size, you can hire the tool you linked but i fear that will be just as useless if the stones are any bigger than its max cut (110mm) have you tried splitting the stones by hand? if they have a heavy grain they should split pretty easy just with a cold chisel or a bolster, if not you could perforate them first with an SDS drill. If that seems too labour intensive (probably not for that size of job but it will take a while) you could look into a "paddy saw" https://www.builders-equipment.co.uk/cut-off-saws/2588-stihl-ts-410-petrol-cut-off-machine.html (first link from google so prices may vary) with that kind of saw you would be able to attack the stone from wherever you want, BUT you will be cutting it on the floor stabilising the stone with your foot which is not the safest method but is generally how they get used on our sites, also it involves bending over for long periods so not the best for you back. If it were me i would probably go for the sthil saw Edit : I would actually go for this option as it is so much cheaper http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=16198&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=Cj0KCQjwktHLBRDsARIsAFBSb6x12faRDuD7ZQgT1xiryassn57uhOFOTw7qfbqTQqPaAgzvwSpcnMEaAg5GEALw_wcB HTH Ed

http://metro.co.uk/video/piers-morgan-clashes-sexist-polish-mep-1425661/ "there is scientific evidence"

an arch would look nice.

Sorry i didnt offer my condolences earlier, I know almost exactly how you feel, remember my gable end as others have said you really have to concerntrate on how much worse it could have been, Fatally worse!! and at least it wasnt the piggery as for talking to the builder, i would strongly advise against going in guns a blazing, He wont be any happier about this than you are, what you both need to work out first is how you can get back on schedule ASAP

I assume you took the glass out of the frame first.... my 78x98s were a measly 44 kg

How long have you got? and how hard will access be later? if you are on a timescale and can get back to it later brads will probably do the job but there will always be one that kicks that you will have to stick a screw in after a season or 2, if are not on a timescale and you dont want to see the fixings go for the lost heads and a punch (glad to hear you have a decent hammer ) Screws do look nice but they also take a lot longer and you have got to make sure they are all placed the same and perfectly in line, if you are just a little bit off it will look horrendous. last time we did it with screws i made a little jig to make sure the screws were all the same distance from the edges, then there is cost........ if you have time and the budget i would use the screws, in pairs, through the face. countersunk to just below the surface,

Buy one of these first. Stanley Tools ZSTA-4-60-053 170 mm Adjustable Quick Square https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00002X2HO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iAEBzbX2ZV0T1 the rest is easy ?

Looks good I got about 30 slates down today then it decided to rain, now everything is wet and I'm sat on my arse in the office

You'll be lucky ?

If it burns out that quick I'll consider paying your bill ?

i have been useing these for the odd shower screen i have to fit, supposedly they have a wax core that does the cooling, and contrary to what peter said they say to run them at full speed, which is what i do and have never had a problem, iv only ever bought one and it must have done 50+holes by now, just remember to start it slow with the edge ( at an angle) holding the drill tight so it doesnt skid about, once you are in about a mil or so, give it the beans and you will get a hole. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marcrist-6mm-Dry-Diamond-Tile-Drill-Bit-/112478177916?hash=item1a3038ca7c:g:IHEAAOSwsW9YwwUn