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Construction Channel

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Everything posted by Construction Channel

  1. this is slowly getting put back into the "ill do it tomorrow" pot... maybe ill phone the solicitors tomorrow and see what they say?
  2. a little, but there are lots of long words, and now im wondering if i need to get a solicitor to fill in and sign the title they offer to print out, or could i just send a copy of the deeds which i should have filed away somewhere...... i assume? ill try reading the guidance notes
  3. Hi again all, after not sorting out my section 50 to mole a pipe under my road for too long, I have finally printed off the application form, all seems pretty straightforward except they are asking for a "certificate of title" , which looks to me like it needs to be signed by a solicitor. does anyone know roughly how much this would cost? and does it have to be the same firm that we used when I bought the barn off of my father?? TIA Ed http://www.essexhighways.org/Transport-and-Roads/Applications/For-contractors/Section-50-Street-Works-Licences.aspx http://www.essexhighways.org/uploads/files/form-2.pdf
  4. its not so much the new tech part i dont get, its the cheaper part, if you have an airtight house, e.g no trickle vents on the windows, you need to mechanically replenish the air in the house, so everywhere needs ducts......no? adding sensors seems like a nice idea to regulate how hard MVHR works, but AFAIK they already have boost systems available, why remove the HR part?
  5. that is the kind of information I need ?
  6. I'm slightly confused about how this will become cheaper? from what im reading, you would still need ducts to every room as the entire house would be relatively airtight and you would still need the fan to move the air through the ducts, so essentially you are swapping the heat recovery part for a bunch of sensors? or am i missing something? also how much does it roughly cost to run MVHR / yr?
  7. as for cutting i use this and a stiff hand saw, (I have never got on with the proper insulations saws) https://www.amazon.co.uk/3MTM-Reusable-Full-Face-Medium/dp/B00FYNN6NQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525451437&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+full+face+mask
  8. im with mr punter, at least we always do it after the felt and battens are on, carrying big light 8x4 sheets around on a roof just sounds dangerous, even if you are tied on
  9. I would go to a local steel fabricator and see what they say, over a thousand pounds for a rsj with a plate welded on the bottom is ridiculous
  10. Old spice usually works for me if I haven’t got any gun cleaner in the van.
  11. you seem to be missing the pictures before you cut it back ?
  12. someone please remind me to lock this at 99 ?
  13. Have a chat with the builder as he may have a cunning plan... or just not thought about it, , as for my 2 cents if you are going to cast something you will almost definitely have to paint it, as trying to imitate actual stone with dyes/ sand types only works if you havent got anything to compare to close by, If they're composite doors I would probably choose hardwood sills,
  14. anytime, what have you currently got bridging the cavity between the stone and your timber frame at the bottom of the door? also what type of stone have you got for your other sills?
  15. have you got a pic/drawing of your door and window holes?
  16. essentially they are saying they don't stock or cant get a sill deep enough for your setup, I am assuming you have a timber frame with a brick skin? and that you want to mount the door in the timber frame? if so you won't be able to use a normal plastic sill, you will have to either fit a stone sill or cast something in concrete and get the door to come without a sill. did you order your windows without sills? I assume you could always use a timber threshold/sill but that's adding maintenance IMHO
  17. there is a difference between cleaning the chute and emptying the rest of the load. Skip companies dont like you emptying the rest of the load into their skips, especially if its the best part of 2m3, AMHIK ?
  18. Strangely for my pump they brought some "pump primer" with them, 2x 1litre milk cartons with some special stuff in them, labelled up as pump primer, every other job has asked for bags of cement? I wonder why they don't all just buy the primer and put it on the price of the job... FWIW the pump guys I used were very helpful, on site at 7:20, called 2 days before to check I still wanted it, did all the lumping and pouring and were generally good fun to work with. considering I was expecting just the pump to turn up without any staff I was pleasantly surprised
  19. I don't think many of you have got that long to wait. also, I could change "copy him" to "learn from his mistakes"
  20. Its a bit late for "thoughts?" ?? you have to share a picture before you cut it back!
  21. I read that as min 75mm +slab. I have dug out others a lot shallower than that. id say 50mm of concrete on top and you should be fine but it all depends if it has to be passed by someone.
  22. They've used these on a few of our builds recently, its still easy to chip the bricks taking them out but they are only 10mm thick....ish (i haven't actually measured one) http://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/scaffolding-fittings-pressed-spade-end-putlog-head-x-50-.aspx the other option is to use flattened tubes but I haven't seen those used in a while
  23. They do add quite a few advantages, have you got any steels in your build? have you got a decent sized storage area? being able to palletize everything saved me a huge amount of work, but I didn't have to pay to use it so I can't really comment if its "worth it" or not.
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