Construction Channel

Depends on the brand but I find a lot of nozzles have guide lines for cutting.

Agreed. Iv never had good results cutting it square

If that's not against our T&C's it should be....... Unless ofcourse you offered royalties

How close do you intend to get to most of it? Spend the £15 on some fugi for around the bath. But the rest of it you will be at least 6' away from

I have watched a good mastic man before and I would happily class it as a trade. But I have also seen a lot of hotel mastic which I can only assume they get specialist's in for and they may as well have covered a hamster in said colour and let it loose. Onoff will get this close enough. I have faith

What type of gun have you got? Looks like you've been pumping a lot which would suggest a cheap one to me. Try moving faster ( I know it's easy for me to say) but it will leave you with less ripples amd generally give you less excess to deal with. Mastiking is a bitch at the best of times ( behind taps are the worst). You need to work quick and tool it as soon as possible. Try again but maybe start on a nice short straight run, not around a curved toilet ?

have you considered vinyl flooring? then you could virtually lose the tile and adhesive thickness. also how long is your longest fall? I assume (dangerous thing) with a smoother type vinyl you could get away with less of a fall

I take it she got fed up getting them dry cleaned ?

And somehow you still manage to get it on the curtains

We have to suffer Bulgaria. Bit in fairness the snow is great and the beer is cold so I'm sure we will get over it

3:30 this afternoon I was having a beer while faye finished her ski lesson...... Just saying ?

ROFL. I strongly suggest you wind your neck in a little there. Jeremy is just stating that concrete isn't always as perfect as you may like to think. Let's all play nicely shall we ?

Depends on how you quantify "good wood". The modern fast grown rubbish you get from any BM will twist and shrink BUT it won't rot very fast as long as you maintain your exterior properly

I'm no engineer but I would have thought you could get away with a smaller profile box section like declan. But in all fairness assuming the glazing profile will be approx 75-100mm and you offset them a bit towards the inside there will Will be minimal interruption o. The internal face.

I haven't actually Installed it yet but I recently bought and dug the hole for my sewage pumping Station. I got an 800l tank with pump capable of 2" solids and an alarm for £1200 ish (tanks direct if someone wants to check the exact price). The actual connection from the pump to the pipe just uses gravity and an oring so even if it is fully submerged you don't need to get your hands in it. Looks like you just pull the pump up the guide rails and stick a new one on. ( putting the new one on might not be so simple but meh. Iv done worse)

3 per tile is still an option ?

Ave did a good video on how the clutches work a while ago and annoyingly I can't find it. Essentially all modern drills will have some form of clutch to stop you from damaging the motor or yourself. (Depending on your strength, any drill could break your wrist if you are not holding it right). The problem with coring or even using a large bit on a standard Sds is the clutch will kick in a lot ( sounds like it is breaking the gears). Once it starts slipping the gearbox heats up which thins the grease in it and wears the parts. Which makes it do it more. eventually the grease will leak out ( usually all over your hands) and then you have a drill that will wear out super fast. AFAIK the dedicated core drills not only have a slower rpm but also use a different type of clutch so that this doesn't happen. By all means buy a standard Sds and stick a core bit on it. It will be slow and frustrating, and assuming you have got a good grip on it you should end up with the hole you desire. BUT having killed numerous drills on the wrong job through laziness. I still strongly recommend just hiring the correct drill for coring larger holes. Even with the correct drill coring big holes is not a fun task.

I think the pallets sound like a great idea, personally I would go for two per rise just so it feels more "normal". Plenty of bracing and a hand rail and it may end up being a permanent feature...... But seriously the transition from a ladder to stairs really is a great day ?

Yes you will need an Sds drill and any will probably last the entire job, personally I use Makita but thats just because it was on sale and I like the brand. But if you intend to do anything over a 50mm core I would highly recommend hiring a dedicated core drill for the job. Coring is a very quick way to ruin even the very best Sds drills

I own both and agree that the air nailer is by far more reliable. But there is no chance you would catch me taking it up on a roof. Also if I can avoid that poxy compressor running all day I will. As for the gas, just keep a spare in your pocket. Firstly it keeps it warm and secondly it gives a very impressive bulge...

I'm hoping a couple of weeks skiing next week will revive my enthusiasm ??

On the bright side, at least you are getting out there and doing it. I am really struggling to drag myself to the house atm. ?

Iv taken mine apart loads of times, it is fairly easy just make sure you don't lose any bits and be careful not to trap the leads to the sparker when you put it back together. Take lots of pictures while you do it.

might be worth looking into a set of silicone formers as well, running a nice even bead can be easy sometimes, but if you mess it up these make it loads easier to sort out. they make the job a LOT less stressful! you wont need a set that big, but a single one will probably cost at least £2-3 at a merchants,