Construction Channel

What exactly is wrong with that bit? It looks fine from here.

I hope you leveled that up when you laid it.

Almost a decades work in one very short post. ??

Just to update. I took delivery of my floor tiles today. I eventually found some on ebay for £13.99/m in 610x406x12 which is the size I wanted. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273798505230 Now comparing the samples from int marble and floors of stone. The floors of stone one is quite a bit smoother and has a lot less defects. they may have just found a good tile to cut their samples out of but I will never know. Having taken a few out of the pallet From int marble I can confirm their sample is quite representative of what was delivered. Not perfectly smooth. Fairly holey on the back and tbh they could have done a better job of filling and honing the top on some but the majority seem perfectly acceptable. That said they are what I was looking for. They are less than half the price. They rounded the £1020 bill down to 1000 and threw in a couple of m2 for free. By the time iv sealed and grouted them they should become a bit smoother. All in all I'm happy. And I saved over 1k which can go towards paying some other bugger to lay them ?

Concrete screws. 5.5mm in celcon/soft red 6mm in fibolite/ normal brick 6.5mm in concrete/ fletons Don't keep winding them in. Let it bite then stop!

Sounds mighty complicated. Ct1 it up. Maybe a couple of screws to hold it in place. Personally I don't like perforating structural concrete things like lintols with screws. Afaic it's just asking for trouble

What exactly is the ceiling build up? Surely it can't be just a 100mm concrete slab?

The issue if you show too much lining you don't have anything to fix the architave to.

7/32" As above. Pretty much so it just clears the hinges

Sounds nice. I had a chicken cesar sandwich from Dorringtons. It was OK but I left it on the dash since breakfast so it was a little warm

95% of the time they is no need to spend more. Depends how much you value the 5% when it shears/rounds the head/splits the wood/doesn't countersink itself. Always happens when you really wish it wouldn't as well. We generally use reissers at work

Just paint a big H on it. quick, cheap and impressive

Bit late for that ? But in my defence I was looking for the bigger flatter ones like this https://www.lampshoponline.com/15w-round-led-light-panel-200mm-26w-pl-replacement.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4qvlBRDiARIsAHme6ov66B6xY9cLEBSzhIxLOljk1eb9jepVIRY3KKp6MXR0HTEpmjPplUkaAjs5EALw_wcB The blanket cost £100 to cover 27 lights so it's still its not that far out. Possibly even cheaper with the blanket.

Annoyingly because I can't find any low profile down lights that are fire rated. My electrician has demanded I put some kind of fire hood over them. We ended up going for intumescent blanket over the top of them. (fitted before the plasterboard goes up.) https://www.fireproofpaint.co.uk/shop/fire-barriers/fb70-fire-barrier-curtain/

I don't know how far you have gone but it may be easier to nail a batten along the rafters, depends how many need trimming though

If you are planning a service void then I suppose you could use either type of box. Although as it will leave it the perfect depth for a 35mm box you may as well go with metal. Another question for your sparks is will 35mm be OK everywhere? by stairs or places with a lot of 2 way switching you may need an even deeper box. As an aside when fixing to the durisol do you use plugs or just screw straight in?

Nope. I was going to paint it but iv gone to far now. Hopefully it will add to the "plant room" theme

And the madness continues

We used to go through ridgeons but they essentially go through a company called ajw. I don't think they like selling direct to the public but they will if you pester them enough https://ajwdistribution.com/roofing-products/cladding/cedral/

you can also have the boxes closer together with metal boxes. for PB boxes you need a fair bit of board between them so it doesn't break when pulling out a stubborn plug FWIW I'm using PB boxes everywhere except where it matters

I was going to stay out of this one but hey, ask your sparks. done. next,...... but seriously, there is a good chance he will hate PB boxes, if so there is no point in trying to turn him. then ask him if you can put the noggins in for him to save him time, then ask how deep he wants each noggin set back, its almost irrelevant what a bunch of people on the internet say until you know what he had already planned, (i appreciate that this is necessary research to go into the conversation with a degree of understanding) what are you doing about the boxes on the durisol walls?

How's the bathroom going?

I would. First at 1200 to upset the sparks then another at 2400 to catch the edge of the board

That's why we fill the cavities first ? How are you getting the concrete in for the garage floor? (pump, barrows, straight out of the lorry) If you can do it with insulation then that sounds a great idea to me. Mixing 3m3 of concrete by hand is a good mornings work at least...... Maybe wait until after the garage floor. Any excess goes in the cavity then calculate and mix the rest by hand

Have you poured the oversite yet? If not order a bit more, then you won't even have to mix it. If you have. Just get the all in ballast. (10/20mm washed, which ever is cheapest) Half a bag of cement and fill the mixer up. This time it really is just a gap filler