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Construction Channel

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Everything posted by Construction Channel

  1. That's the bit I don't like. (that I can't afford ?). Its the owners of the tools that get me. They're just so smug about it. Iv always got on well with hilti and snap on owners (similar price and aftercare) but for some reason festool have created a whole new breed of upper-class tradesmen.
  2. If I could start again and offset the price against a large job. I would probably look into dewalt flexvolt because they can offer a lot of power through a single battery. Other than that it's pretty much pick a colour or see who has good offers on. I like blue so I run makita but all the top brands are pretty comparable. Except festool. I dislike how overpriced they are and how arrogant most of there owners tend to be about it..... Imo
  3. Those are the flooring screws I used. I don't know the actual answer but I can only assume its to stop any potential squeaking even if the timber below shrinks. Quick Google didn't really help much
  4. You would only be limiting yourself without it. Tbh the only times you'll really use it is cutting cripples (Jack rafters) but I doubt it will be that much more to get one in the grand scheme of things
  5. You really do need to remember you will almost always be 6' away from almost all of this. If you are that upset by any of it, rip it out in 6 months time. It won't make any difference. You are trying to achieve a flexible seal between 2 surfaces which I am sure you achieved on the first attempt. Making it look nice is not necessarily worth swearing about.
  6. I would go for either a stiff brush or pressure washer. I don't know enough about chemicals to risk an adverse effect
  7. Not that I'm picking holes or anything. It may just be local terminology, but I would have called your "studding head" a "top plate"
  8. But in answer to your question. No it doesn't mater. You'll never get a driver to put a screw in high enough that it matters.
  9. That is the "proper way to do it". The easy way is to cut the studs square and put a packer or fillet on the long side where the gap will be
  10. Why hasn't he finished the wedding video, the insulating video, studwork, vcl, plasterboarding, the redesigning, the kitchen design, the sewer pump, the rest of the stairs. Etc...... Because he's a lazy bastard. That's why ?
  11. The 5mm chamfer is always my go to option if the gaps allow it. If not I will step up to the 8mm. Less is is always a better option IMO. Iv never really liked the radius if I'm honest but on the 135 deg angle I think it might look better than a whopping great chamfer.
  12. If it was me I would do the f+King lot. On the wider angle maybe use the big radius but as long as the mastic is a similar colour I can't see what harm it would do
  13. Oh I watched the whole thing. Tbh I had to go and get another pint before he got to the differences between the moduluses. ? Now you mention it he did. But iv never seen one so I must have just blanked it
  14. I would guess at legionnaires but I don't know the critical temp
  15. I suppose that makes sense but how would you actually avoid it making contact with the corner? Unless you put a small bead of soapy water in the very corner to stop it sticking? Have you tried the tools yet? I was very impressed when I first tried them.
  16. But only moments before he claimed you don't really want it deep in the corner because of some other reason I can't really understand. I'm not against cutting it square if it works for you. But I just can't get along with it. Only time I cut it nearly square is on brickwork expansion joints.
  17. I think that's a polite way to put it ?
  18. Yeah @Nickfromwales. I do wish you would stop making assumptions like this
  19. Apart from the clearly visible door handle and hinges I can barely see the door at all ?. Not a bad effort though
  20. Apart from him reccomending to cut it square ? ( which I still disagree with) very comprehensive. Only things I would add is if you have a slight blemish you can angle the tools one way slightly which should get rid of it. No one will notice that one bead is 1/2mm smaller than the rest ?
  21. Idk why its forcing me to quote Ian. But yes flat side first and leave the bath full. Keep plenty of blue roll on hand to keep the tools clean
  22. Assuming you are battening. (I would. So I could use an auto feed gun for plasterboard) I can't see it would matter which way round. Just put a couple in per board and let the battens hold the sheets up properly. Also battens would allow a service void for all your lighting cables. (unless of course they already have a route)
  23. Tbf that's one's probably more useful for me at the moment ?
  24. I feel like I'm missing out on the original link
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