trialuser

I have a setup whereby a new extension will be heated by ASHP / UFH, approx 100sqM footprint. The existing house is heated by a new condensing oil boiler and radiators (old stone cottage, no insulation to speak of (yet) The extension will be effectivelt sealed from the old part. Hot water to both parts is from the oil boiler and a 300L cylinder. The ASHP was an secondhand ebay buy (3 months use) and came with a preplumbed 250L cylinder. (Ecodan 8.5) I am proposing to link the DHW cylinders in series and heat the first cylinder to 40C (ecodan min hot water temp) to hopefully get a decentish COP, and feed the outlet into the inlet of the second cylinder and heat it from 40 to 60 ish with the oil boiler. All pressure reducing valves, temp and presure relief valves and expansion vessels will be fitted. Is this OK?

The ct clamp only needs to go over the live tail or similar, according to the TLC website the difference in diameter between 25mm and 35mm double insulated tails is 1mm (11mm v 12mm)

Google just found this photo of what I'm hoping to diy https://www.facebook.com/prizesprayingltd/photos/pcb.3692954434167072/3692943657501483

I am talking about the area between the plasterboard ceiling of the ground floor and the egger chipboard floor of the first floor in a timber frame build, so not normally rendered. It's a strip around the perimeter of the building within the depth of the posijoists. I could stuff in rockwool but I dont think that will deal with the airtightness. Taping would be a nightmare, posi's are on 400 centres and are from memory about 122 wide, so about 60+ small 300mm x 280mm voids and the ends of the posi's ideally want a bit of insulation as well Thanks

Similarly, but different... Because of a cock up installing my tony tray (Flapped in the gales, ripped to shreds and now cut off), I need to find a way to insulate and make airtight the first floor zone between the ground and first floors. The joists are 305mm posijoists. It will be tricky to cut foam and fit insulation between and across the ends of ths pozi's, so I was thinking about spray foaming just the joist zone around the perimeter. Does anyone have any ideas on whether this would work? Thanks

Texecom power supply failures have been a problem for a few years now, I think they are made by elmdene. If you want to know more sign up on the texecom forum and you can spend hours reading about the hundreds of people who have wasted thousands of hours trying to fault find dodgy power supplies. The forum is quite active and very useful for obscure programming tweaks. You can easily blag it onto the pro installer sub forum.

Before you go bunging in a 32mm pipe just because you can and it's only a few quid more, check it won't turn round to bite you later. Here in Scotland I am billed by business stream (farm with field troughs), and the standing charge per year for 32mm over 25mm is several hundreds of quid more. Perhaps just check that's not the case where you are. edit, just checked, £1233 v £436! I suppose you could add a foot of 25mm to the connection end

@joth I'd be very interested to see the schematic please, and info on the electronic mixing valve, thanks

If you go for the ventillationland import, order it a month before you need it. I ordered the 400 plus (not yet installed), and despite the website saying 2 -3 day delivery it took nearly a month, I put that down to brexit. A previous order for the ducting before Brexit also took 3 weeks despite saying on the website a few days.

I loiked the look of it as well, so I bought one here No idea if the price is any good but ebay is convenient

My selfbuild extension has been evolving for about 3 years and I have been buying 'bargains' on ebay which I thought I would need. As a result I now have an ecodan 8.5 ashp and preplumbed 300L cylinder and controller, bought secondhand but only used for 3 months as the elderly lady wanted it changed back to an oil boiler. I also have a new unused worcester 300L indirect single coil unvented cylinder which I previously bought when I thought I would be using an oil boiler. Is there a sensible way to incorporate this worcester cylinder in to the ecodan setup, possibly as a big buffer or something. I wasn't going to use a buffer as I have about 800M of pipe and no actuators, all open plan downstairs only in 10 loops. Thanks Edit. Forgot to add, the extension will effectively be seperate from the old house which we will use as an occasional guest 'wing', and this bit is already served by an oil combi for heating and hot water.

could you just get an extra joist and fiddle the end gaps a bit

Egger specifically don't want it screwed every 150mm. Used to be first row only, now seems it can be first row only or optionally a few other fixings at 1200mm

yes, it says at the top to use ph1 if single phase. This is the bumph I found Actually that must be a later one dated 2019 ? GROWA_00749_200713073708-1.pdf

Well, no one seems to have replied, so this is what I'd put, assuming youi have the 3.6kW Growatt inverter.. Growatt, yesterday ish,1, Growatt3600MTLS2018, 3.6kW, 1.

Also consider egger protect / D4 joins, my floor was a padling pool at times but it seems to have survived.

I've got an electric lock with a keypad on one of my sheds (because it was very cheap on ebay) I used something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DANTECH-DA376-PSU-24V-4-X-1A-OUTPUTS-POWER-SUPPLY/174512171271?hash=item28a1bc6907:g:VQ0AAOSwkYpfqbMj Which contains a backup battery, commonly used in fire and alarm systems (mine is 12v but I'm fairly sure the 24 v ones just use two batteries) That way you are still working in a power cut especially which is useful regardless of the door power failing locked or unlocked. I also tap into mine to power other 12v bits like the weather station on the roof.

I believe nowadays more and more inverters are incorporating the DC isolator within the inverter, probably the case with that growatt? edit... duhh too slow

Thanks Mr Punter and jamieled. I wasn't aware of the drop down seals, I think I might have a go using edge seals and a drop down seal.

I'm building a 2000 sq foot timber frame extension to a small Galloway farm cottage. When it's done we will effectively live in the extension 95% of the time and the original house will be for hobbies and the rellies. The extension is well insulated and will hopefully be fairly airtight. We are having MVHR and I would therefore like to install fairly airtight doors in the two doorways which will link to the original cottage which leaks like a sieve. The other doors in the extension will be the usual vertical planked oak veneer type, so ideally I'd like to get some that look similar but preferably come as a pre hung set complete with air sealing. Do they exist, or can effective seals be fitted to standard doors, I imagine it's the bottom gap which will be the problem. Any ideas or links very welcome.

Have you considered 4g. We live in rural Wigtownshire and have just binned Bt as the speed was about 2 Mb/s down and 0.3 up. We now have a TP link 4g router and an EE unlimited data sim and get about 60 down and 20 up fo a quid or two less than the BT cost.

@ProDave Know it well, we had a friend there and we used to take the kids paddling in the ford when they were small, they are in their 20's now so you were probably there at the time. I wanted the Highlands but the boss won with D&G, that and the midges. @Russell griffiths Windows - I too hated paying over 3K for four blokes and a spider crane for a day to lift my windows into position so I can now level and seal them, but it seems to be the going rate. I suppose you are also paying for them to take the risk of breakages. @Rainmaker sorry no modern social meeedya stuff, yours looks a big project, good luck.

Triple. Just seen you are in South Oxon, we have just moved fron Upton near Didcot to SW Scotland, small world.

I've just bought some geefix https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trade-pack-of-25-Geefix-fixings/124269874930?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Not use any yet (no plasterboard yet) but I was suckered by the videos, principle looks good https://www.geefix.com/charlie-diyte-youtube-video-review/