trialuser

My understanding is that g98 is 'install and notify', g99 is 'apply and get permission, then notify of commissioning' I don't see why you shouldn't be able to notify the DNO yourself of the g98 install. The form is easily downloadable, a guide is here https://www.enwl.co.uk/globalassets/get-connected/apply-for-a-new-connection/generation/micro-generation/guide-98_form-b-completion.pdf You can look up the type test ref for the inverter on the ena website. I've just done a g99, which is a bit more involved as it needs maps and line drawings. I would have thought a secretary at an installers could do a g98 notification in a couple of minutes. PS, They should have submitted it within 28 days of installation, suggest to them you will ask their certifying club to investigate.

Yes thanks. I'm also on the hunt for more ammo if anyone has experience of this with SP energy networks. I believe they also are a DNO for some areas 'down South'.

No, I said I was not fussed about how much export I was allowed. I won't get paid anyway as I've been waiting since Feb for Octopus to install a smart meter. They just keep saying no appointments available as a shortage of engineers. I chase them weekly. I intend to self use / store as much as I can.

That's interesting, boils my piss, they make the rules up as they go. SP energy networks (in Southern Scotland) have twice told me categorically that I must use an mcs accredited installer, the offer letter which details my export also states that. I suppose it could be that mine was G99, has anyone else with G99 appproval been compelled to go MCS? One other thing, I see there are lots of snazzy drawings in this thread. My DNO specifically asks fo a single line drawing, they are not interested in blue and brown lines representing line and neutral, or even pictures of the components, a labelled box will do. Cheers.

Well done. I take it you're not with SP energy networks in Southern Scotland then. They won't accept G99 on the portal. But they did accept an EVCP.

As a final follow up. I used 1 for the power factor, it has been approved. I still havent had a reply from hypervolt support, perhaps worth bearing in mind if you are in the market for a charger.

Thanks.

As part of the notification process to the DNO for an EV charger, I have to fill in a form which is asking for the power factor of the charger. The charger is a Hypervolt v3 home pro. Does anyone know what it would be for this charger. It isn't in the manual or spec sheet, I have emailed tech support at hypervolt but as yet have not had a reply. I have asked on the facebook page and no takers. A half decent gues would probably satisfy them, 0.8, 0.9, 1 ?? I believe with a home 7kW ac charger the car does most of the work, with the charger basically acting as a sort of fancy high current switch. Thanks.

I hadn't realised the max 550-600v was per string

Would 18 panels at about 40v max put the inverter over the maximin input voltage, or if connected series/parallel, put it over its max input current? I understand you can over power them in wattage but thought the max volts was absolute?

Just to bring this up again. I have looked througth the above regs and I cant see anywhere that it says that access panels or loft hatches are compulsory. Happy to accept that I've missed it ,so if someone could point me to the actual reg I'd be grateful. I can find stuff about the requirements if you do have one. I'd rather not, it's a trussed roof with virtually no room to move about and I have been fairly thorough in wrapping the house with tyvek airguard membrane to minimise ventillation losses. There is no requirement fo access for maintenance, only some 90mm MVHR ducting which is under 400mm of insulation. If I ever feel the need to poke my head up there I'll cut a hole and patch it again. Are they compulsory, and under which reg in Scotland? Thanks

Thanks

A question for anyone but hopefully @Gus Potter will chip in as I'm in Scotland. Does all this malarkey also apply to non glass balustrades and fabricated steel stairs. I'm building a large extension in Dumfries and Galloway and was going to self fabricate a heavy box section steel stairs with wooden treads. or if I had any doubts about my welding I would get a local steel fabricator to build them. I wasnt going to get to involved with structural calcs, just over engineer. Something along these lines (pic pinched from internet) Thanks

Bradfabs Ltd? 🙂

probably why they changed the name from 'safe' to 'prescribed' :-)

I'm wondering about this as well, but using tyvek supro. As I read it, the BBA cert says you dont need eaves and ridge ventillation, as does one of the FAQ's. But, experienced people like Nod, often seem to say the opposite? Still unsure

Whats happened to youtube, I had to watch a 20 second ad to watch a 13 second video! Crazy!!

The installation instructions specifically say to turn on the power at least 12 hrs before starting it up. I turned on for 24 hrs and it used about 300W in 24hrs. I can't remember where I read it but it is to pre heat the compressor as in cold weather the oil can get mixed in with the refridgerant (I think!) and it seperates again when warmed slightly. I dont think it's an issue when it is operating full time

I think this is what was in the proper old nitromors, if you have a can of that knocking about.

I bought 20L on ebay for 94 quid a couple of weeks ago, just seen the same seller is now 120! There is some for 95 at the moment though.

That's great, thanks nod.

What about when using resilient bars. The short ends of the plasterboard fall on the bars but all the pictures I've seen show the long sides of the plasterboard just butted together, is this ok?

That's beyond my understanding. I wasn't aware of any convection flow. My understanding is that cold mains water enters the first cllinder at the bottom and displaces hot water at the top of the second cylinder? I don't have the room to physically mount one cylinder above the other. Thanks again.

Thanks All, although I'm not sure I understand Nick, but I seem to spend half my life begging 😁 My reason for doing this is I have a highly insulated extension with ufh which is bigger than the original cottage, the ashp hasn't got a hope of heating the old stone cottage, and the ecodan cylinder was essentially a freebie with the pump. It would be a hassle not to use it as it has the ftc5 and the valves, thermistors and circulatorfor the ufh bolted on the side of it, by the time that was stripped off the cylinder would be worthless. My hope is that pre heating the water by ashp would lower the dhw cost slighty and give a bit of a buffer and backup.

Pretty please, anyone, @Nickfromwales