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Not getting anywhere with NIE though... Their response was that an alteration (which is what I applied for) has VAT charged, and that's the way it is. They told me an alternative would be to apply for a disconnection and then submit an application for new connection. OK, I get that. However "your disconnection will need paid and completed before we design your new connection". Seriously??? I also asked if I could have a dual quote showing the non-contestable works. (for these that don't know, this is part of the work such as laying the underground cable that can be completed by a number of eligible contractors, the idea being that an element of competition is introduced into the market and it's not a monopoly for NEI who could then charge whatever they want. That's my understanding of it anyway). Response to that was "we do not provide dual offers for an alteration. This is only possible for a new connection". To be continued...

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I phoned the VAT helpline, in agreement to previous posts on this thread they said that VAT should be charged on the disconnection, but not on the new connections and told me to quote VAT notice 708 section 2.1. I've emailed the electric supplier with that info, will let you all know what response I get.

I'm facing the same problem with our provider who want to charge VAT. It is a replacement dwelling so need them to disconnect the old house and connect up the new. This is the response to my questioning of VAT being on the quote: 'A replacement dwelling where you are moving an existing meter to a new meter position on a new house is deemed an alternation. This is why VAT has been charged and cannon be changed' Is this a common situation? If they force me to pay the VAT am I sill able to claim it back?

Thanks Russell, I'll try and find the posts. Decided to go for the McAlpine one after all, as it's 75mm seal and that's what the regs say to use.

As for trays, did I see somewhere on this forum someone that made their own by laying mortar sloped in towards the drain, or did I just imagine that...?

Some interesting options there. I've also found this from Harmer. Is for membrane though I might well go that route. Only concern is it's a 50mm water seal, our building regs say min 75mm...

I wonder if this is an unusual arrangement, given the apparent low availability of suitable gullies. Or am I missing an obvious solution...? So, what I want to do is use a former (1200 x 900, center drain), with a gully that has a vertical outlet that goes straight into ta 110mm waste pipe that comes up through the slab floor. And I want a gully that the inners of which can be lifted out should access ever be needed to the waste pipe. I've found a McAlpine gully that meets this spec but it is for membrane tanking. Could maybe make my own former from 4 bits of tile backer board and seal with tape and to the gully?

Thanks PeteraW, that is an option. I was equally concerned about comprising the Quinn Lite blocks, tho prbly ok for a few m at the higher end of the site to have one 215 and one 100mm course, which would be needed with either floor make up.

Hi Folks Our strip foundations were poured this week. All very exciting but due to various reasons the top of the concrete is higher than ideal for our target ground floor level. This just affects one end of the house as there is a 1m drop across the site and the concrete is stepped. I had envisaged at least 800mm from top of concrete to GF to allow for drains to pass through the footings. In the localised ares of concern don't need to worry about drains so may get away with the below detail? Or can I lower the GF even more by having a course of the Quinn Lite blocks cut and the sand sitting on top of the concrete? Thanks

Just wondering on what other other peoples opinion's are on this one. I'd originally intended to bring the down pipes straight into the ground and into the back of a back inlet gully, and have a leaf trap/mesh in the gutters. Looks neat, but I'm now wondering if a more conventional discharge into the gully grid is better and no leaf trap in the gutter, on the basis that its much easier to clear a leaf blockage at ground level. There are quite a few mature beach and sycamore trees around our site so plenty of leaves being blown around in the autumn. Or am i over thinking things as usual....?

Does your mortgage lender that want to see the contract, ours did? We decided to go for a RIBA contract, it's relatively straightforward to fill in and accepted by our mortgage lender. We're also in NI and had to to estimate the build value for BC. They didn't question my estimate, it wasn't by any mean unreasonable but makes me feel a little like I could have gone lower...

He'll do about £230k of work. There's about £4k of prelim stuff in the quote, site setuo, welfare, insurance, site security etc. In fairness it'll only take him about 2 weeks to cover the deposit value, so short term risk to me. Yes he's give a good breakdown and I'm happy enough with cash flow for mortgage payments.

Our proposed builder wants 5% deposit and paid monthly for work completed. Is this fairly typical? What have others on here agreed to? I had in mind payments at milestone points to align with mortgage drawn downs eg wall plate, watertight etc. though happy to work with whatever is typical. Builder will be doing a reasonable proportion, about 75%, of the work to get to sign off point on our self build. Cheers,

OK, I hadn't looked into the homeowner contracts, though a quick look over the JCT website says they are 'suitable for small domestic building work, such as extensions and alterations'. So maybe not for a while house build? Another option is the RIBA Domestic Building Contract. From what I have read I can be administrator, and its acceptable to our mortgage lender.

So it appears that minor works is the one for our build. Next question, can I be the contract administrator? Has anyone else done this?

Hi folks I'm trying to determine if a JCT minor works or intermediate contract is most suitable for our self build. House will be a relatively straightforward rendered block cavity wall construction, slate roof, nothing complex or unusual, 310m2. We'll use a builder for most tho not all of the work to get us to final sign off. So, any recommendations on which JCT contract to use? From what I've read elsewhere the minor works is possible as the build should be straight forward. Thanks.

Hi folks Anyone got any recommendations where to get a 1000mm X 800mm wet room shower tray former? Ideally with drain half way along the long edge. Thanks

So I finally went ahead and purchased the Huepar level and detector with my birthday money. Used it in anger for the first time last weekend leveling the workshop foundation shuttering, and then the first course of footing blocks this morning. What an excellent job. I can only imagine using the old traditional 2 man optical level, would still be at it...

Hey folks, Hopefully in about 2 weeks time I'll be putting down the 150mm slab that will for the workshop floor, which will be 4.5m x 6m. Reading up on how to get the required finish looks like I'll need a bull float, though having seen the prices I'm wondering why a bit of steel of aluminum that is sufficiently flat with a simple handle would not do the job. Any thoughts on why making one would not work? Bearing in mind that I have zero experience in leveling concrete, so I'm not exactly expecting perfection regardless of how good the tools I have are... Thanks.

Huepar worth getting, as a value for money brand? I'm on the verge of getting one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Huepar-Cross-Line-Rotary-laser-level-Green-Beam-Self-Leveling-603CG-Receiver/143345119600

I hadn't thought of using 150mm soapblocks, was to now only considering 100mm with piers as per building regs guidelines. I'll look into that option. I want it to be reasonably comfortable. There'll be insulated floor from the start, as well as roof. My thought process behind internal insulation is that I will likely spend short periods there potentially infrequently, so wanted it to warm up relatively quickly (so without having to warm up a block wall), and would not keep it constantly warm.

So, the plan is to build a single skin block outbuilding that will be used as a store as the house is built. Later on it will have an external render (white sand, cement and lime) and I'll dry line the inside with about 50mm of PIR and it'll become a workshop. Just wondering about whether it is worth the extra expense and effort of a cavity wall for a better job? I'd still apply internal insulation, so perhaps not? Thanks Chris

Re-visiting this as still not really clear on which route to go. Each builder that I asked to quote for the silver sand/snowcrete/lime render ultimately declined and quoted for a trad sand/cement render, and said I could then paint it. They gave a variety of reasoning including 'it would be difficult to get uniform colour' and 'it would only be suitable for old stone built walls'. One builder suggested the K-rend thin coat TC10, though double the cost of sand/cement render So, is K-rend TC10 a better choice over the standard k red? I didn't want to paint for fear of never ending maintenance, or am I being unreasonably concerned given modern paints? We're talking about 460m2 of exterior surface which rather puts me off even putting one coat on myself...

Good point, will do just that!

Thanks for comments and suggestions. This is what I think I'll go with having given it some more thought and taken into consideration the above advice. I've also swooped the shower and hot press around, having been unable to remember why I had it the other way around. No doubt if there was some good reason it will come to me just as we're part way through and committed... I'll put an AVV under the bath (if BC are in agreement) and run the 50mm (green lines) in the insulation to make the shower tray fitting easier. Keeping the pipes under the wash hand basins accessible means that all pipe runs should be accessible for clearing should the need ever arrive.