cwr

Apparently we do. Probably not, and arguably shouldn't be distracting from the more important job of building the house... But if there's a few simple things we can do to make it more pleasant and keep everyone happy. And maybe help its re-sale value. Though in saying that, having second thoughts as a friend raised concerns about locking in moisture. Should we try and get a breathable paint, or leave well along, or are we worrying about nothing?

Hi folks. The big glulam truss is taking shape nicely in the shed, and will be moved out to its final location in 2 weeks time and lifted into place. Question is, how best to bed/fix it in? It will be resting on 215mm thick block pier, so thinking about this interface. The structural engineer didn't specify anything, but did give 20kN max vertical load on the kingpost, so there will be 10kN at each end. Builder wondered about some form of steel plate and set on a pad stone. I'm thinking the same, but to what detail? Thanks

Thanks for the replies. And finally, here's a photo. Yes, it is a rather ankle twisting mess.... But not that deep as the ground was already built up a bit.

Static caravan now on site so going to set to and paint over the internal wallpaper. Probably have to get the paint from Screwfix as can pick up in the evenings, so Leyland or Dulux the main contenders. Is is it worth going for Dulux which is slightly more expensive, and the 'trade' variant? Colour to be white btw. Thanks

Hi folks, Builders are leaving quite a mess of broken blocks out the back of the house. As it happens we need to build most of this area up anyway for a patio anyway. Question is, is it wise to just leave the blocks there and throw some stone over them and compact down? I'll not be laying the patio itself for a year so there's a bit if time for it to settle. (Photo to follow) Thanks

"Easy don’t buy the upvc. If your filling the cavity with eps beads you must be trying to build a quality house, I don’t see how 65mm upvc frames even come into the equation. Put them out of your mind buy the better windows and solve all the problems like you had before." Yes if it was just my choice I would, but my other half is insistent on pvc.... So how about a strip of aerogel in conjunction with either frames raised up or further in?

Yes, could do, though did want a nice deep sill on the inside. And then would also need to close off the cavity on the outside somehow. Lol, do you get that in the same shop as the tartan paint?

Hi Folks Scratching my head on this one, I'm sure (hoping!) someone on here will have a bright idea... So our original plan was to have aluclad frames which are about 120mm wide. the concrete window sills were fitted by the builder and sit about 70mm into the cavity, as per the detail below: I was happy enough with this, however in a bit of u turn my other half now wants PVC frames, which are about 65mm wide. The result of which is this not so good detail, area of concern highlighted in red: Sills are already in, so trying to figure out what to do. -Try and cut back the sills by 30 or 40mm? Going to be awkward to say the least, and risk cracking or making a mess of them -Chamfer the corner and get a little bit of insulation in? -Live with it? Cavities are 240mm and will be full EPS bead filled. Thanks

Yes that would work, just wondering if there's a cheaper way to do it. £22.20 inc postage. Gotta save the pennies to pay for that kitchen...

For connecting up the toilet in the caravan that's just arrived, there's a 90mm dia pipe coming down through the floor. Is this a standard size that a straight toilet pan connector will fit? I can find some rubber adapters online, but at around £25 seem expensive for what they are. Thanks.

The inner skin is 140mm thick, at the structural engineers request. 140 X 100mm blocks were used, laid flat.

And finally the slabs were lined up correctly (long story) and I was able to seal them up just this week. I first applied the foam to the open ends. Maybe could have used a little less in places, though not much less as it tended to slump over if applied to thinly. Expanded out quite a bit and I found it necessary, or at least neater, to apply it at least 50mm into the hollows. Plan had been to use the blower proof paint to seal the parged walls to the slabs, but with some gaps I found it easier to just use the foam. Probably cheaper too. You can see in the photo a bit of the dark blue blowerproof. In all I used 4 cans of FM330. There's 13m of slabs, so 26m of slab ends.

Illbruck FM330? That's what I used after it being recommend by this forum.

If your digger's as knackered as mine and ground hard or rocky then you may find that the second of two cuts runs into the first and it's difficult to get the width at the bottom.

Must get back onto this. Screwfix appear to have as one back in stock, so thinking of one of these two: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-ewc1500-125mm-1500w-electric-wall-chaser-220-240v/247fx Or from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Industrial-Cutting-Machine-Granite/dp/B08W9W84NH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=wall+chaser&qid=1623446429&sr=8-3 The latter has more functionality, but maybe a bit riskier on reliability? Seems to be several sellers selling them under different brand names with no reviews... Maybe worth a punt tho as only have to do one (largish) house.

Yes indeed, that was a large factor in the decision to go with the blown bead. Already using silver...

Yes of course. The placing of the slabs highlighted a bit of an issue elsewhere, so its going to be a few days before i seal it up as the slabs need a little more positioning...

After a slight cock up (not mine thankfully) we have one external wall that will have to be narrower than the rest (long story...) Original proposal from outside was: render, 100mm block, 240mm EPS blown bead, 100mm block, plaster. For this one wall it will have to be narrower, so builder is suggesting: render, 100mm block, 115mm Kingspan K106, 100mm light weight block, plaster. From Kingspan brochure: Both are around about 0.13 W/mK. Just wondering if there are any clever ideas for alternatives that result in the same or better u value and no thicker?

Thanks for the advice. Good point re the structural concerns. Hollowcore slabs went in today, on top of walls that I parge coated over the weekend. FM330 and blowerproof delivered and ready to be applied tomorrow eve.

Having viewed a number of suppliers it is proving tricking to find one that we both (me and other half) like both their window and door handles. Rationel for example, we are not too keen on their door handles so wondering if it is feasible to take what they have on offer and replace with different handles ourselves at a later date. Warranty issues aside, should it be simple to find a handle that is compatible?

Thanks for the suggestions. I have read a little about Tony Trays. I like the concept and it works with out air tightness plan of wet plastering the inner block skin. The hollow cores are for the first floor by the way, so wet plastering above and below. Just wondering about exactly what to use for the membrane.

Hi folks What is the recommended air tightness membrane for sealing the ends of hollow core slabs? Does it need to be a specialist membrane or would a 1200 gauge PE sheet or wide dpc do?

SE has specified concealed doweled steel plates at the connections of our glulam truss with the steel 'epoxy resined to the timber elements'. Anyone got any recommendations for what resin to use, and where to get it? Thanks.

I had the same choice for our ground floor and plan to go in suspended ceiling for the following reasons: - marginally easier to get at if a change required in the future - marginally easier to get at if there was ever a leak - quicker to detect a leak - insulation not compromised I don't think any of these are particularly strong reasons though, esp with a manifold system as there'll be no connections hidden.

Think about how you will use it too. If you have stools at an island will they face out a window with a nice view, will guests sit at them while you prep dinner, is it a place to put the nibbles when entertaining (party's always in the kitchen!), will you have breakfast at the island, if one or more side is along a through route what will that side be used for, what will be under it and how often are those things accessed, will you be fed up turning between it and the wall backed worktop... and a million other things i'm sure