Vijay

There was a tip in a magazine handyman magazine my brother gave me and that's to use hockey/baseball type knee/shin guards as they won't move from where they're supposed to be. Where you can get them over hear is a different matter, maybe Ebay?

Is H&S another issue to consider at all?

Just to update. 3 phase cable off a main cable is 50mm and I can use 94/110mm twinwall as long as it has electricity marked in the plastic

Calm and straight to the point that you're not prepared to pay £15k upfront. If he gets annoyed or upset, you may have bigger problems down the line when/if you have to pull him on anything. You have every right to know why so much money is needed upfront as it's your hard earnt money not his Maybe it also sets the tone that you want a working relationship with him and you will ask questions when you need to

I think others are right, pay for the materials and nothing upfront to him. Way too many people get burnt by trades having different ideas of what the customer wants. On the flip side, pay promptly when the payment is due, so everyone stays happy

Very impressive and nice tidy site too

I've used the second one many times. I tend to use it when I might have a hidden joint or one that is a right pain to get to and I test it for a good few hours at least. My view is I'd rather know 100% that that joint is not gonna give me an issue

Saw this is an American handyman magazine my brother gave me and thought I'd post it in case anyone is interested http://www.greenhingesystem.com/ Youtube has videos about it too

Genuinely can't believe it's so difficult to get answers out of DNO's!!!

Couldn't agree more, I personally think it's just so they can pull their pipework through easier at a later date. Yes, that's what I'm doing now, getting all the ducts buried with drawstings as they are under the driveway and services won't actually be run/connected until next year

What a pain this has become! Gas people told me they want twinwall perforated ducting in 150mm - it doesn't exist!!!!! You can either get twinwall un-perforated or single wall perforated - their answer...................................get the un-perforated and drill some holes in it I'm getting the 100mm perforated single wall pipe and I can't see why they can't get a 32mm pipe through it. The next pain is the electric ducting for 3 phase. Been told I need 125mm twinwall but can use a minimum of 100mm. They still haven't told me if that's internal or external diameter, so can anyone tell me how thick a 3 phase supply cable would be??

Fernox LS-X is fantastic in these situations

Why not teach yourself mate, pretty easy with Yorkshire fittings (solder ring) and a good torch. Clean the pipe till it's spotless, flux it and then solder

Just an idea, but why not buy a pipe bender and bend pipes where you can. Also maybe use ones of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/solder-ring-full-cross-over-22mm/94381

Info here too http://www.pavingexpert.com/subbase.htm

Anyone ever used Rigiduct? I've been told to use that for gas but can't find out of much flex/bend they have????

What size duct should I use for 32mm MDPE pipe on a 30m run, 50mm ID or 94mm ID?

Never used it but might be worth a try - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Just-Copper-Solderless-Bonding-50g/dp/B004K8GZ5C

I thought the shingle was a good idea so you can see you're digging through something if you miss the warning tape?

I assume it would be ducting, then 100mm shingle and then warning tapes/tracer wires (on top of the shingle)?

That looks perfect The gas man mentioned having a warning tape 100mm above it??

Cheers Declan, very good points. Is the tracer wire put inside the duct or on top of it?

Which ducts/cables/pipes should I use tracer wires on?

70 for the top one and 165 for the second?

I'm planning to put a stop tap chamber too as my meter is about 250m away. Where did you get the insulated blue ducting?