Nickfromwales

As long as the tape / sealing issue is addressed properly during this method I'd say go with this. Overlapping or adjoining the airtight layer isn't a problem as long as the 'connection' is sound. The airtight tapes are damn good at their job as your probably aware, as you don't get a second chance to stick that stuff on, a real pita to work with on fussy junctions I found.

I've fitted them for the acoustic quality, and can report no real difference. In the pics if there is no silicone / sealant then it's just because it hadn't been done yet . Every job needs to be sealed so you can't pee down the gap after too much ale I always fit the pan loose, squirt sealant / silicone between the pan and the wall, then fully tighten. As the sealant oozes out you clear it away with baby wipes / tissue and CT1 multi solve ( if you've used a non silicone like CT1 ) and then level and give a final tighten. I always clear as much silicone / other away from that junction as possible, leaving just a functional seal down the sides, but on the top I tool the silicone to leave a flat flush surface so there is no 'trough'. Leave to cure for 24 hrs, and job done. If the silicone is breaking away then I'd be a bit concerned that the pan may not have been fully tightened back. They do move a little though, and you have to have balls of steel to give the final few turns of the fixings. If just a quick finger of silicone has been applied, rather than my method of sandwiching it between the two mating surfaces, then I'd fully expect it to come away / split. Needs redoing IMO.

I said wobbly, not squiff .

Basically ( in rough terms ) a cold roof is your typical rock-wool / other insulated attic where the insulation layer is on top of the 1st floor ceilings. From the underside of the roof you just see the felt. A warm roof has the insulation layer directly under the breather membrane, so the attic 'space' is within the heated envelope, rather than cold and draughty .

I'm quite happy that you've stated the correct order of events Jeremy. Just a bit of moderation was, I felt, necessary to address a certain comment which I didn't feel met with out normal site etiquette. Let's move on folks .

Ok, I'll concede that fermacell will change the characteristicts vs regular PB. Just a bit of inside info for you in case you ended up with wobbly walls .

Hmmm. Unless you're aware of a specific and purposeful alteration in a post, and then it's deemed a misrepresentation, then could we please stick to facts. Are you aware of a change in the posted texts, or have you assumed the posts were altered for the purpose of disposing of a statement? If it's the latter then I'd politely invite you to edit your comment to be less abrasive please! There are no members here who wish to "bash" anything . We give free impartial advice here, and in this case only the facts have been posted according to the manufacturer, warts and all, and it's always been the best way to provide real life info. The supporting comments about the multifoils' other shortcomings, like poor sound insulation, are vital components of any critique, and should be in no way stifled as that would be worse IMHO. Many thanks.

Ah! Agree, and with wood not so easy . I've never found a house with metal stud work that has anywhere near the feeling of strength in the walls that you find in a all timber property. When doing my BIL's bathroom in Kent I literally had to stuff the throats of the metal studs with ply, then overboard them with 18mm shuttering ply ( cheap and light ) and then fix a 9.5mm plasterboard to that and then tile. I was in no way happy to tile the existing walls as I could literally move them by pushing / leaning on them. It was a mass produced cheap n cheerful house, but just something for you to consider. Maybe ask for an example wall to be erected on 400mm centres and then see if you may be better at 300? I'd think long and hard about over-boarding in the bathrooms and kitchen at least.

That sounds like a headache. TBH, if you primer the floor, lay a bead of exp foam, drop a stud on it and hold it whilst it goes off, it'll be like it HAS been bolted down. Unless you're stick building, I think that'll be a logistical nightmare, trying to pre drill the footers to allow them to slide over exposed studs, and for the stud to be in perfect position afterwards.........seems a bit too optimistic to me. Good idea with the ground workers setting the penetrations under the surface of the slab. That must give an uber flat floor vs trying to go around obstacles. The only thing I'd have done ( unless they did so ) would have been to put 6" blank plugs ( upside down ) over the top of the 4" sockets so that they could be removed after the pour in case of damage to the seals. The plugs would get chipped out / against as sacrificial units leaving the sockets free to be removed and a gap around them, but still maintaining a good seal below of the concrete against the actual pipe. Breaking out concrete around a set penetration is a right pita, and to do so without causing damage to the pipe makes it incredibly slow going. On a previous job I had to dig 4 of them out! They were in the right place as far as MBC were asked to put them, but then the customer changed the remit and I had to move / cut back almost every one . Not a nice or easy job, especially when I had the rebar in the slab to avoid. Looks a nice neat job with these guys though so it must feel great to have a clean working platform now

~£120 difference on the 5m2 mat ( with no controller ) so the Prowarm stuff is expensive. Warmup seem out of the running as I can't see a 100w kit.

Fwiw, I've fitted a load of the Dron ( German iirc ) stuff and never had an issue. Can't see any difference TBH, or more importantly where the extra money goes. Some, possibly warmup, do a lifetime / long / extended warranty on their cables but that's with very their very strict installation guidelines adhered to to the letter. I've heared of one instance where a warmup cable failed at multiple points in a new and very expensive bathroom. They came out with an imaging camera and cut 3 sections of floor out. They then remove sections of the wire and took them away for analysis. After a long wait, and much chasing up, they admitted liability and paid around £7k for reparation work. . ( after being told it wasn't going to go away that is ). With that said, it adds merit to go for the known makes / reputable brands as they are typically the ones that offer a warranty that's actually worth the paper it's written on. The above was the only instance I've heared of these types of kits catastrophically failing, with one other warmup kit I fitted going to earth fault but I found out the floor got flooded so I disconnected it and told them it's party over. I think they've since reconnected it against my advice and it's working.

Warm up is overpriced IMO. They do, however, a very good controller and for the sake of the extra £20 this one talks to your smartphone. Different colour options too to better suit the decor. The controller isn't cheap, but it has bags of features like running costs monitoring etc. This Devi mat is good, and the price is great. You can couple this to the warmup stat no probs ( and the controller comes with the thermostat probe to complete the kit ).

Fwiw the Pro warm stuff looks ok to me. Just had a quick look and it's much of a muchness with Warmup and the likes.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24m-150W-WT-Twin-DRON-UNDERTILE-Underfloor-Heating-Kit-self-adhesive-/370064842947?hash=item56299560c3:g:9tQAAOSwhRxXLJFT last few came from here. Controller was basic jobbie so maybe mix and match if the costs work out.

Hi and welcome. Get your PD sorted and then you can settle in here. Best to ask questions about what's happening, as opposed to what 'may' be happening Either way, welcome aboard

I edited my last to make more sense Damn you Budweiser. A 2.5 ltr bottle of that stuff has lasted me a bout 3 jobs Very good mileage. Watered down for fist coat, to reduce porosity, and then applied neat during laying ( stays horribly tacky so best to 'lay as you go' when used neat.

The only prob with the acrylic primers is that they tend to stick to heavy contact items after curing ( knees when knelt on etc ) and are quite a thick, defined, layer. Liquid ( thin coat ) primers are my weapon of choice vs this type of primer ( which is like a thick coat of paint ) as they don't just prime already suitable substrates but coat them with the bonding layer that's actually required. That Bal product is more something I'd expect to use when waterproofing, and as your priming between layers I'd choose something else. I can give you the contact details for N&C and see if you can get their stuff locally or direct if you want.

You need to lay down on my couch for a chat.

Flexible primer between EVERY layer, and then the supplied primer under the mat. I would go for a self-learning 'intelligent' controller. This will ascertain how long it takes for the floor to get to temp, at the set time, and then after a few cycles will adjust itself accordingly to minimise the on time. One assumes it will use the same info to turn off accordingly too. Leave the tiler to his / her own devices. Ask them about what layers will be primed, with what, and why. Allow them to tell you what they're doing, NOT vice versa. You don't buy a dog so you can stay up all night barking yourself.

They should come with a primer, but any flexible primer will do. I use N&C NicoBond stuff and it's shit hot. Don't know if they're nationwide though? Most are a neoprene emulsion so anything with that tag should suffice, but realistically anything that doesn't skin over ( like PVA ) is the better option IMO. It's a lot easier to get the double sided tape to stick to a tacky primer vs a primer like PVA which has skinned over. For one stop shopping get some of this

Use 25mm PVC . Galv is a bit ott

I fitted these on the last few bathroom jobs. Crisp clean light and very nice output. I'd ditch the alu strip tbh, not 'curve compatible' tbh. Does the 16x16 bend on a radius ?

I'm a 2-port man myself, ( unless it's an old arrangement with boiler / pump overrun )

22mm ! http://www.impeyshowers.com/luxury-wetrooms/wetroom-floor-formers/aqua-dec-easyfit.aspx

With an ashp there's usually antifreeze inhibitor in the primary water so a PHE can be used to separate the internal and external bodies of water ( to reduce the volume of treated water that's needs to be refreshed when the antifreeze dies off. )