Nickfromwales

Hmmm, so you didn't keep the living roof then? Congrats ! Piss up and a bbq sounds good to me

Thanks Jane. There are many rides at the funfair not just this roller coaster . Feel free to choose another, just please keep your arms and legs inside the carriage at all times until the ride stops ! The managment.

Did they give a reason for including the additional circulation pump ?

Very well said, and pretty much exactly what we're all about Actis can by all means come here and comment, as long as it's factual and not commercial. I for one would welcome it, but I doubt if they ( after reading the content of this thread fully ) would open themselves up to ridicule as it's doesn't appear that they would be able to defend their previous practices, and I fear it would just descend into a marketing squabble, much as we've seen before. Id be happy to be proved wrong.

It's what I would do, and have done on just about every stack I've ever connected to. No issues yet, and I'd assume that if shitty black and grey waste water had been leaking anywhere, particularly inside the envelope of a customers home, I'd be the first to know .

Alternate grille design

Just bought this McAlpine one. A very good unit, finishes flush, chrome plated solid brass and a huge top access bucket ( hair trap ) for easy full cleaning. Most other 90mm wastes have a sort of mushroom cover which is elevated, sitting on plastic prongs. They don't last long if you inadvertently step on them. I'll be buying the above from now on, and bin / sell the crap ones that usually get supplied with the trays. I'll take some pics tomorrow.

Ah, good point about the 'user definable' height with the adjustable frame of the Geberit. The last one I fitted I purposely jacked up by a good 35mm, above normal WC pan height, as the punter had bad knees. There are 'comfort' height floor standing WC pans around, as well as Doc M suites which also adopt a higher pan level. All jokes aside, and believe me I've done well here to fight the urge, you may well find it a good idea to jack the height up a bit for comfort, and the side effect will be the ease of connection for the ground floor loo. Im not sure about where the hang ups are coming from with having a pushfit at the base of the tee, eg a triple pushfit socket tee, as using double socket connectors, bends and 45's etc is commonplace. Amen to that. You get one shot with these.

+1 for plasson. I'd not want to overpay for a like for like item, bit this is not a place to buy 'cheap' IMHO. When I bury something, I don't want to have to dig it back up

The next gadget won't run on 1mm2 stranded flex . Re the manifolds, you'll not need the additional circulation pump imo. Mom a previous job I trenched between the house and the garage ( much like the pic above of my current job ) and put a TS in the garage aka plant room. From there I ran a 15mm flow from the TS, around the garage, down into the trench, back up into the utility room, up the wall to the first floor joist space, along to the airing cupboard ( or "hot press" if your foreign ) and up to an Ufh manifold for the ( ground floor ) sunroom single zone / single circuit Ufh. The return was tee'd into the 28mm grouped return for the house radiators and job done. Thinking that the manifold pump would pull the heated water up there was my assumption. To my surprise, the manifold was warm, PRIOR to me fitting controls and energising the pump. The pipe work was all roasting hot and I was bemused as to how, only to then realise that there was a perfect convection loop flowing round like it was pumped! I had to install a 2port valve to STOP the flow for when the Ufh wasn't needed . That 15mm pipe run was over 18 maybe 20m long and up n down like a yo-yo. Point being, you'll be fine.

It's just down to good practice tbh. Reducing the bore at the start of the stack would be a no-no for me. Anyhoo. A ground floor WC will have a 7" pipe centre ( from FFLevel ) where the soil leaves the pan. You'll need a fall in the pipe before it gets to the branch, thus determining the lowest point of the branch. An U/G ( underground ( terracotta coloured )) fitting with 3 sockets may JUST do it IF the socket is IN the slab NOT above it. I'll measure one later and double check.

Hello stranger . Hope all is well, and we'll look forward to hearing from you.

How much 110mm is above slab height currently?

Fair do's, they're motoring along with that . How do they manage the pour when they start going up the gables?

I always chuck a spare 4 or 5 core in as a redundant cable when getting there later on will be tricky. Eg. I don't want to dig that back up Whats the length of the run between the TS and the manifolds? I assume your running 22mm circs?

Yes, your spot on. The TS and the boiler 'talk' to each other via the cylinder stat and that heats the tank according to time / demand. The room thermostats talk to the actuators on the Ufh manifolds, and the call for heat from any room / zone ONLY needs to turn the pump on the respective manifold via the dedicated terminal in the Ufh control / wiring center ( UH2 ). There is no need for an external pump to circulate between the TS and the manifolds as long as the run isn't ridiculously adverse, eg 2 floors away at the other end of the building with 20 high points etc. These do pull through incredibly well all by themselves. Quote "The Heatmiser guy was insistent that I should use the hot water valve signal because I will need to trigger the external pump at my TS." Did they mean trigger the manifold pump? Or do you already have that connected? Is this in and working, then failed, or are you installing all new from scratch?

There should have been a double socket straight connector on the top of each upstand . In that, blank caps fitted to stop the concrete failing in, but most importantly to protect the fitting and its internal rubber seal. I'd not even consider using that fitting as I only ever use those for picking up from a clay soil pipe. The internal bore is too far reduced to be putting that at the START of the stack, sorry. Hire a 6" core drill, make a 6" hole in some 18mm ply as a guide, lay the ply on the floor and centralise it over the stack. Core drill down around 75mm and remove the spoil, then cut the soil just shy of the FFL and then attach said coupler. It's a bit of a pita but if I was there, that's what would be happening. Don't kango out around the pipe or you'll scratch / damage it and be unable to get a seal when you offer the fitting on.

In part, yes. I do prefer the 'runny-ness' of the unleaded solder but it took a while to become a fan, due to me using leaded for so long prior to 'the change'. I do like the way that UL'd solder stays bright on the coil, where as L'd solder tends to go black and dirty, and then that gets deposited on the joint as it's going. I've always observed a 'no bump / knock' policy whilst my soldered joints cool down. I use a cold wet rag to instantly cool my joints which pretty much guarantees that I don't get brittle joints, and what you say about UL'd there is 100% spot on. Not many people know about it or actively prevent disturbance during cooling, particularly DIY'ers.

Yup, I still carry 'true leaded' solder on the van for sweating copper to lead etc, or for flooding old joints in situ ( where cutting out and replacing a leaking joint is not possible / cost / damage effective ). With that stuff I can literally form a 'belt' around a fitting, therefore bridging the leaking part of a poorly soldered / dry, and subsequently leaking, joint. A skill not many new plastic-heroes posses

That was my next question . Thanks.

I managed to set fire to my one ton bag of fresh firewood the other day. One beer too many and the bag must have been pulled too close to my chimnea. Result is that out of the 24 odd plastic corrugated roofing sheets, round 23 of them 'may' need to be replaced. Gutted. Thank F the bag was only about a 1/4 full. Dark day, that one. ??

10/4. Just haven't yet met anyone who'd not remove paint etc from a surface, mechanically, before fine cleaning and prepping with flux so didn't even enter my head tbh. The Laco certainly has its place in my van, as on old 3/4 stuff or 1" stuff it's usually quite deeply pitted too so you need s chemical clean to get into the grain of the surface. Laco cleans so well you can actually see it happening, but I always use that as a preparation and clean it all off before final assembly. If I'm really paranoid, I'll coat the first inch or so of the solder in Laco and solder the 'old' end first, and resolder it again last with mild and fresh 'mild coated' solder. I suppose it's easy enough to braze smaller bore stuff with greater suction than it is with big stuff ( 54mm and up ) as its harder to apply heat evenly.

I'd have to disagree about modern mild fluxes not cleaning. It's immediately apparent when the flux is introduced that there is a cleaning quality to it ( telux in my instance ). I clean the copper / brass with emery or wire wool, depending upon grottiness, and apply a thin layer of flux to both mating surfaces. I also lightly coat the first 2-3 " of the lead free solder so as to keep fluxing the joint as I go, rather than stopping to dip the solder in the flux ( which it then doesn't want to take to as the solder is hot and the flux just drips / fall straight off ). After initially soldering a joint and the flux has 'evaporated', I run the flux brush over the joint to brighten it back up and to flick the snot of solder off the lowest part of the joint ( where it collects as a drip ) to neaten things up. The mild flux definitely cleans, of this I'm 100% sure. Fluxless soldering of refrigerant pipe work or very large bore water pipe work is brazing, not soldering, so a totally different discipline imho. I very much doubt the filler material ( brazing 'solder' ) carries through the entire joint depth, like solder does with capillary action ). That's more a weld which is visible vs a soldered joint which can be near 100% saturated but with almost no visible solder on show ( if your neat, and don't overheat the joint during soldering ). BGas guys don't do the best of jobs tbh, and I've been behind a good few cleaning up after them as they refuse to do so as long as it's 'working'. I had one such call out where I contacted BG and told them if they weren't back there within the hour to correct a new £5k heat-only boiler install ( £5k for a £700 glow worm boiler, soooooo cheap ) that I was going to report them to the GSR and Riddor their asses. They said no, so I emailed them photos of the job and said I was going to email them accordingly next if there's no response. They were there 45 mins later rectifying the faults as it was lethal. That was an elderly couple 82 and 83 years old. ?

Same with my chimnea. I can't help thinking that each burn would have heated a giant TS to over 40 degrees ( and given me hot water pre heat for my Combi ). Job number 3765.