Nickfromwales

Theyre doing something wrong then. I've got bits that I've lent to mates and had back and are still drilling holes. My 30mm one is at least a year old and does between 5 and 7 holes per job. That's through porcelain and ceramic. Just use plenty of water and keep the tile cool. A damp sponge works well also.

Cape and a crash helmet.

Sound deadening mat is the way forward. I tried completely surrounding a soil pipe with expanding foam in a hotel, but it was next to useless. Acoustic wool ( dense rock wool ) in conjunction with something like recycled rubber floor matting ( sound deadening layers for floors ) will reap rewards. The rubber to deal with the lower frequency, the wool for the higher, and then 2 layers of sound control ( acoustic ( blue )) plasterboard will be a good solution IMO. That'll leave the stud work at the same depth, but allow for the two layers of PB, both sides if it's a dividing wall.

The only thing jack didn't mention was that the house was 4" taller 100 years ago

I'd avoid the ventilated option. Blind the quarry tiles with a smattering of sharp sand ( 5mm or so ) and get it as level as possible. Don't make the high points any higher, just fill in the 'dips'. Lay 25mm eps on the sand layer, and then lay your DPM. That'll protect the DPM and help absorb any sharp undulations. That's the 30mm layer sorted. Fill the remaining floor area with a 140mm layer of PIR. Fit 25mm eps around the perimeter to reduce cold bridging there. 75-80mm of fibre impregnated screed on top as your finished floor. Bobs your uncle, fannys your aunt.

Jeremy's experiences tell us that's it's bloody hard stuff to cut, and you'll go through a couple of saw blades. The upside is you'll have an extremely hard wearing and durable floor. I can only assume it would sand like wood, but be a bloody hard job.

Are the design loop lengths in excess of the coils supplied?

: bows his head : Are you serious? In fairness I've never asked for a design, as I'm usually the one making them. I only ever ask people for a price on the kit I want. It seems BD outsource this service, at their peril. . Got a funeral tomw morning then I'll get back on the phone.

Welcome aboard .

The heat generated when drilling porcelain is the number one reason that they break when being drilled. A water bottle hand spray and a diamond bit is essential, particularly when the hole is within an inch or two from the edge of the tile. Is it ceramic or porcelain, do you know?

I'm sure I can sort something

No. Solid floors will need sealing with a pva / water ( 50/50 ) mopping, and left to dry completely. For wooden floors I'd recommend a flexible tile adhesive primer, as they're far superior to pva imo.

If you're floating it then underlay is a must. Otherwise you'll have boards 'clacking' together when you walk on them. Are you not bonding them down? If deffo floating the floor, maybe go for a higher performance underlay to add to comfort and sound deadening, rather than the thin foam one usually suggested by the suppliers.

Don't seal the trap to the tiles, instead buy some 20mmx20mm pvc angle and make an upstand around the opening in the tiles. That'll allow the bath to be removed, negate sealing around the base of the bath ( possible ugly silicone / other on display ) and stop water from doing any harm under it. Splashes will soon naturally evaporate so unless your filming Free Willy 3 in there I wouldn't panic too much. . Edit : don't cut right through the angle section. Just cut the piece that hits the floor and then bend it there to form a continuous upstand. Mitre bond and activator will bond it into a rectangle then use sikaflex to bond it down.

As per the brief convo', cutting the floor to get the bath trap in is commonplace. Even more so with today's extra deep baths, but also with the practicalities / restriction of the entry height ( top of bath from floor ) where being higher than normal is not desirable. Fwiw, trying to pre-empty where the bath trap will finally end up, and allow for that to be tiled to, at the correct location, is just not practical. The bath trap issue isn't a failing, it's just how 'it is' so don't beat yourself up too much, plus your not welsh

Plasterboard, and tank it. Cheap, simple, and bombproof.

Hello and welcome back ??

Ok, I see. I'll await his response and see what, if any, influence I've had

@slidersx200 Micheal, I've just seen that plan and agree. I've just spoken to Byron at Boulder and asked him to personally review it urgently / at his next earliest convenience. He said he's not familiar with it off hand and asked that I email him the project details, which I did at 15:54 today. Ill come back to you ASAP and see if we can get something sorted. ?

Lol. You're so unfair !

How are you managing without cross-members or gussets on the main support legs? They're very long, doesn't the whole thing move at all when kids are blasting around?

hut, house, it's all the same.

Not tiling it should make a huge difference underfoot . Good choice.

You'll have to give us a clue dave