Nickfromwales

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Try reading that from the first post and you may be slightly better informed .

Beware recommending automotive connectors for 230v as they're not 230v insulation 'integrity', neither are the automotive cables ( unless clearly stated ) .

I've just fitted some 120mm 9w ones in a small shower room ( IP66 ) and am hugely impressed by them. These ones And my DAB radio didn't go off when I turned them on ( my test for rf interference ? ). I doubt I'll ever fit generic down lights ( GU10 / MR16 spots ) ever again tbh.

Have you checked @JSHarris blog entry for the supplier of his?

I just make a bypass 'rail' out of 22mm which basically travels past the last flow / return connection and links back to itself. As long as you've either place the LLH in the airing cupboard or insulated it then the additional losses should be fine, what size is it out of curiosity. ?

Vigilant Ed rides again

No harm no 'fowl'. Geddit ?

Nope. .

What you got, 100%. Lower standing losses and physically smaller for the same capacity. Apologies for the seemingly bum steer but after you pinged me on EB I got onto the phone ( as you're aware ) and got to the bottom of what's better / cheaper etc and the spray foam is a slightly budget version of the product as your buying cheaper foam and they're not fitting the white powder coated case if they go that route. As above, the final confusion was Roger telling me it should cost more for the jacket, but then Trevor saying he wouldn't charge extra either way. With those cards on the table it's a no-brainer. Metal jacket, HP insulation and more compact product all the way.

Our 'policy' is not to allow commercial posting, links etc in new membership, so for your post to link to another site should really have been edited accordingly and one of us moderators would have PM'd you to explain why the action had been taken. As it's a link to somewhere neutral, I, for one, have let it slide. If, for example, it was a link to an aquarium supplier, it would have been zapped almost instantly and you'd have been warned 'off air'. @daiking responded with song, as his recent home improvements have left him on the edge. Feel free to update the thread if you get some better 'fish-related' replies Regards, Nick.

I need to create a new thread regarding the extra insulation etc as I've discussed this at great length with Roger at Telford and have been assured the standard ( hi performance ) insulation which is installed beneath the cosmetic metal 'jacket' would perform better than the extra depth spray foam. The confusion was around @Shell820810 's issue when hers turned up with no extra spray insulation, but the metal jacket, which shouldn't have been on it. It boiled down to the thicker spray insulation being cheaper than the high performance insulation and the metal jacket combined, so in essence you'd get a bulkier, cheaper to buy cylinder which had a loss of around .5kw per 24hrs. The exact figures escape me now but you deffo want to order the regular cylinder with the HP insulation and metal jacket. Regarding costs / savings I was assured by Trevor at Cylinders2go that there would not be any premium, regardless, when buying through him ( mentioning the forum and my username ). This is is for a 400, but I think the dia stays the same for a 500 but the height changes to 1810mm iirc. The naked tank is, I believe, designed to fit through a standard 760mm doorway . Just remember that the immersion / s need to face front so you can change them if necessary without removing the cylinder.

No problem with weight then, as you can just straddle the two downstairs walls to take the extra weight of a larger TS. If your going with oil then I'd 100% recommend a TS so you can pulse heat to it, as it won't modulate ( as Temp has already stated ). That'll get the best efficiency and stop short cycling so imho is essential not preferential I wouldnt go less than 400ltr tbh, so the design weight needs to be taken as circa 500kg, but if Pv is deffo in the design then I'd say go a little larger at 500ltr ( 600 kg ). Fit it in the airing press hot cupboard and use the latent heat loss to your advantage, remembering of course that this will be hot all year round as it'll be providing dhw. Storing heat for "a c Pv will generate daily, so storing for a couple of days is not a consideration you should be worrying about. If a TS is providing space heating ( as a buffer for the oil ) and DHW, it'll need daily recharge howsoever that's provided.

Yup . Question is of cost of wood, convenience / inconvenience and how much heat your home will withstand, and for how long. Some folk are happy to tend to a boiler, I'm not one of them. Do you have block or TF ground floor walls?

I thought they were the pump sets from the ST A very commercial inspired install but very neat and well laid out. So the pump sets negate any further equipment at the manifold ? Eg you just have flow and return to the manifolds, and they don't have pumps and blending valves at those satellite locations ? Whats the dip pipe you've fitted to the accumulator? Quite interested in that, but I negate the 'fresh water' issue by buying accumulators which are bottom outlet, rather than the top outlet you've gone with That massively reduces stagnation vs a top outlet one IMO. Good to see the Armorflex fitted snugly, and plenty of it. That a typo? Ecotec? Have you gone with the system boiler? If so, it has an integral 6m pump so you'd have only needed a zone valve for the cylinder tbh but assume the reason for the stations and pumps is to 'drink' from the low loss header where I also assume the ST and the boiler flows combine. Have you set it up so the ST is able to help with space heating, eg the reason for the low loss header.

Look closer........there's a mop close to hand. I wonder what mops are used for

I doubt a plumbing firm in Toronto will get much business from us in fairness.

When I say to the builder I'm currently subbing to, "I'll be back in an hour with the parts" he asks if that's a builders hour or a plumbers hour...........so when I said later let's assume I meant a day later OK Source : I would recommend Telford. S/S : A no brainer for me, deffo yes. Plumbing : If there are rads and they are regular steel, then there is the problem of corrosion contamination which you'd ideally want to design out where possible / practicable. I'd probably say run the towel rads from a coil, via a dedicated 2-port manifold, and run the space heating ( ufh ) direct from the body of the TS via a second dedicated manifold. Benefits therein of being able to select the time and temp of each application to suit yourself, eg being able to run the towel rads when the heating isn't necessary but warm towels would be nice. C/V/P : Room stats to Ufh control, ( multiple stats for multiple zones if required ). Time clocks for towel rads control. 2-port zone valves to achieve both previous. Pumps on manifolds will suffice regarding flow to the manifolds from the TS. With a TS, I assume you'll know you'd be using a system boiler and not a combi as the TS would typically then provide dhw ?

As per my last then Any rigid pan connector can be cut to make it 'short', but a flexible one cannot, thus forcing you to make the connection sub-floor level if you chose the latter.

The biggest shits will be the bco's

I'd not recommend 80mm myself, when you can use 110mm with you having no real reason to deviate from 'standard'. Wall hung ( Geberit etc ) have 80mm pan connectors but they increase to 110mm within 300mm with the supplied adaptor. That takes them to 'our standard' from European standard. Our pan connectors are narrower bore anyhoo so 6 and two 3's imho.

Is it only the WC onto that vertical rise? Your allowed around 1300mm before you really need air admittance so you should be fine with a direct termination to the WC. Any standard WC will have 7" centre for the outlet and enough room for that flexible bent pan connector. Personally I'd recommend a solid unit as that flexible one will end up under floor level where it changes from flexible to solid. Making that off to the finished floor will be a challenge for you that I'd rather dodge . Mark the WC centre and bring the soil up according to the WC of choice. Of course, that means buying it now but I wouldn't suggest any other way if it were me doing the job. The rigid bent pan connectors can be cut to length and will allow you to bring the 110mm pipe up through the floor slightly and then you can seal up with ease against rigid pipe instead of fragile flexible pipe. That make sense?

Oh, and +1 on a back to wall wc .

What's the vertical drop between the wc outlet and the bend in the soil run ( to horizontal ) ?

Your timing is terrible, that's all

Personally I'd want the timer so I could specifically dictate when the events were. Have you considered remote PIR's so you can aim them accordingly ? That would avoid unwanted / nuisance triggers.