Nickfromwales

Inserted 'in' English heritage they should be .

Off home. Had a tit-full for one day, and it's bloody Sunday. ?. Beer and BBQ me thinks. ???

Mediation and problem solving were some of the features I had which allowed me to 'walk' into some of my jobs. The first ST job I did as an employee was interesting. My boss dropped me and the 1st year apprentice off and said "ring me when it's in and working". Didn't do any work the first 2/3's of the day as I sat down to read the manual from cover to cover, twice. Boss asked what we'd got done that day and I replied "learned how to fit ST. Tomorrow we can start the job". He went nuts as usual, but he was a major prick in fairness. S/E is a bitch when your mega OCD, but I'd find it very hard to work for anyone who didn't want things done properly, and was charging / paying accordingly. Few and far between afaik.

Fwiw, the equidistant 'stare at it longer than actually doing it' phase is something I suffer from too, just I've learned to get a solution quickly and move on in order to actually make some money. One of the reasons I'm not rich ??

Aye, there's not enough flow / velocity to keep water from air locking in the pipe run. Those small waterways through modern monoblock taps don't bode well for mixed / gravity supplies.

Im currently spec'ing an old school conversion ( single storey existing building to 5 holiday rental units plus one domestic residence, same building ) and am facing the heating / water 'split' dilemma. Need the domestic side and non-domestic side split into separate systems so the RHI payments can be applied accordingly ( if they choose to go that route ). I need ( equal to or lesser than ) 32Kw total of space heating plus 2 separate DHW systems. Thinking of pairing 2 x 15kw HP's for the 5 rentals, ( redundancy for maintenance or one unit failing etc ), feeding into one large buffer tank via a 'common rail' arrangement ( so an unified body of water ) and the two ( rental units ) Ufh manifolds fed off the buffer, with a 180tr UVC with a hot return circuit so instant hot water at all basins. A third 12kw unit then for the domestic dwelling doing Ufh ( via it's own manifold and buffer ) and a 210ltr UVC, ( bath, stand alone shower, basin and loo in the domestic bathroom ). The dilemma is whether or not to ask the ASHP's to ramp up to 55oC for DHW production, or to just leave the immersions provide dhw start to finish. These will never go cold so the upper range will only need to be maintained ( eg top up against use or losses ). I've allowed for buffers at the moment so that the each of the Ufh manifolds has a heat battery so that the space heating will continue to be serviced whilst the ASHP's drop out to do DHW, should that be the way to go. The cons seems to be just components and complexity of pipework and controls etc ( if doing the split heating and DHW design ), with the pros being DHW will be produced quicker. Each of the renters will have a tank-fed electric shower, no bath, and just a basin for hand wash, plus one communal cloakroom WC so very little DHW required for these units. Anyone have any thoughts on the potential revenue that would be generated by the RHI, vs doing a cheaper non-MCS install. 20 years of lower rate plus 7 years domestic is on the table. Going non-MCS will probably save over £5k. Waiting for a positive response from the customer before I progress to the maths stage, but thought I'd float it here first, for some extra reading material if nowt else .

Increased and unnecessary complexity with the split units IMHO. Monoblock seems a much better choice to me.

Your getting good at this now . DONT use Denzo tape!! It's not allowed for use on potable water any more Where the two pipes are touching, just use insulation / gaffa tape to physically separate them, and there won't be any issues with them then IMO. If you don't want a joint, drop a separate pipe for the bath hot and tee it in above where you have access to the joint maybe? Also did you say the upstairs basin cold is off the CWS? I'd want that off fresh cold myself, but you may have to change the tap to acheive it ( if it's a mixer / mono block ) as the hot won't have much gravity ( pressure ) at that location to fight off cold mains. Apart from those niggles it's going good guns, and one less tiled access panel to do .

That's the hammer . Stick with me, kid

No, it'll be boxed in in the attic with a removable panel which is easier, quicker and imho more desirable than trying to make a tiled access panel in the bathroom wall.

No reason to have isolation in the bathroom then

You want to buy my ( spare ) charger? I just bought this bad boy

Jeremy said he's had good results with the copy batteries . I'll probably go that way when I need my next ones. @jack, do you have a link to the ones you went with or did you follow JSH?

A bit over priced I thought, especially the equivalent chop saw. My mates had grief with his ~ 4 year old dewalt stuff and my makita stuff ( for not much money ) is still flying. A few tools repaired free under the 3-year no quibble makita warranty .

That's what I normally do. Can't find a pic though Ok, a suggestion....Can you get into the attic above where the copper pipe work goes up into? If so can you put the isolation a up there? Secondly, is that a full bore ballofix on the CWS fed supply? For the exercise of finishing the bathroom, could you not fit these isolations up high and tile so far, then when all is up and running, drain down, cut them out and reinstate the supply without them thus negating the access panel? The isolations for the basin can go under it eg have the 15mm copper coming out horizontally as you say, then put ballofixes on immediately. Then fit these type of flexis which have female ends which can go directly onto the ballofix valve and pig tail the flexis so you can't see them. In my house I ran the pipe work in the floor and brought them up inside the footprint of the pedestal and zip-tied the flex to the waste so they're gently pulled tight and out of sight. That left the walls clear for tiling with no penetrations. My opinion is that you should ditch the wall access panel and relocate those isolations above. If / when you change to an UVC, it'll be quicker to turn off the mains water supply and drain down the hot and colds than it took me to write this .

Can we ask how much?

You can always go back to hairdressing

Use the force , Luke............

That multi tool is a cracker, and if Dewalt hadn't gone through a stage of producing disgustingly poor tools for a few years, I'd have one now. I went all makita because of Dewalt's hiccup a few years back, and never regretted it, but the new Dewalt stuff is undeniably good. Fwiw I bought the Dewalt chopsaw a few years back ( DWS 780 XPS shadow line ) and it's outstanding. Still going strong. Anyone seen the new 54 volt "FlexVolt" Dewalt stuff? looks good, but Jesus H Christ, it is expensive !!!

Companies charge obscene amounts of money for fitted wardrobes etc, and most I've seen, including Sigma stuff, is utter shite. Youd be no worse off going to B & Q and buying their fitted stuff, and you'd have the benefit of about £4k saving to put towards your kitchen. Last lot I saw from Sigma was just terrible, and when i found out how much the punter paid I nearly puked. Don't go to the showrooms other than to steal inspiration. Oh, and don't take the wife

Thanks for the pic At least they've done the most they could do ie they've upsized to 32mm from 25mm as soon as practicable, and the 32mm pipe you've run to the house should mitigate any pressure reduction over the length as much as is possible. 9 L/P/M is shat, so you should get better than that with your arrangement. Have you / they tested it yet for the results ?

+1. Ask more here, BEFORE, and get wise answers, Confucius say........ Comparing a renovation to a new build may be a bit misleading. A new build can be planned, but a renovation can often be Russian roulette. Agreed that a new build may stray off track, but the comparison is night and day IMO. I'm renovating a lean-to bathroom at the mo, and have gone from a dozen rubble sacks to filling a 4 yard skip. Yay. Oh, and there's more to go. if your renovating to sell then ask a few local estate agents about relocating the bathroom and see what the consensus is. . Don't provide anything more than the buyers will expect, unless your getting double the difference in return. If your spending £4k on the bathroom 'shift' then you need an £8k return. Pointless endeavour otherwise tbh.

Standard 'practice' is to give you what you specifically asked for. If you asked for a 32mm supply, then what exactly did you / they stipulate that you'd get in return from your request? Eg if you asked for a 32mm feed, 32mm stopcock, and 32mm interconnecting pipework then that's what you should have received. If, however, you've left that open to interpretation then it's a can of worms. Stop them from back-filling and review your order / paperwork.

buy a non-solvent ( push fit ) one

The grey states solvent, the black doesn't.