Nickfromwales

Yup. I'm not exactly a fan tbh.

Why make life difficult? I assume you know you can't solder the tap connector or adjacent fittings whilst it's made off to the plastic stem? Seen many a nugget do that and not realise they've just melted the shit out of the fill valve stem. Another favourite seems to be doing the same on an electric shower. Keeps me in a job though

Standard 1/2" tap connector or flexi. I prefer flexis onto those as they have a rubber seal which is far more forgiving against the plastic stem. A tap connector will have a nylon / fibre washer and they are great fun to get spot on each time. A flexi can more or less be done up hand tight and still not leak. Watch for cross threading as that's a real pig of a connector to get on tidy first time.

I think the client will be happy just to get these done and rented tbh. Claiming the sub £4k vat via the business maybe an option ? As this is an investment, I don't know what their accountant will advise. Link to the business and write it off / other ? I have to draw a line somewhere, so advising them to seek advice through their accountant is where I'll detach myself I think. Offering to go labour only is the most I can practically offer, and also gives some transparency to my costs.

Sounds like the first step. Really appreciate the help as this lot is normally already sorted before I get on site. Not my area of expertise at all.

Take the feed for the cloakroom branch behind the cistern inlet and vertically straight down to the compression tee and DOC. 300mm or so down that vertical drop put a 15mm tee and an M&F 15 bend facing vertically and connect that to a flexi. Take the flexi and use that to feed the cistern and open an 4-pack. Pic here shows the tee turned sideways for illustration ( if you can call it that ) but I'd put it forward facing so the two pipes are one in front of the other. Use a ballofix flexi so you have isolation for the wc. Fit the flexi forts and that'll tell you where to cut into the vertical 15mm pipe. Drawing done whilst making fish fingers for 4 gannet-esque kids so please be gentle.

I have already advised the 'client' that they need to sit down for an hour or two with their current accountant as I've already suggested I go labour only and the materials come through them for the purposes of vat as I am not registered. Well, only as part sane anyhoo.

Guys, I really appreciate the info. Thanks all. Fyi, the shop is staying, it's just the existing basement flat and the existing 2nd floor flat which are being refurbished for habitation. They will be let out.

Tell me more about this 'certificate of lawful develpimnet' please This forum really is gold for the sheer diversity of knowledge. Thanks @PeterW Hopefully @Temp can advise too, more the merrier.

A friend has a shop, which is at pavement level, accessed from the front / roadside. The plot drops steeply and there is a full basement flat underneath, and then another above ( both likely to have been the original accommodation ). The shop owner wants to refurb the flats and rent them out, after they have remained dormant for a few years ( 10 or more me thinks ). When I told them to apply to BR, they were told by the BR staff to get PP first, but I thought if they were existing then would that not just be PD? After a few brief chats it seems the residential parts may never have actually been 'registered' ( a mix of A3 and A1 ? ) so that's maybe where the confusion lays. Would the BR dept maybe have made an error in stating that she seek PP, and maybe they meant PD? They're ringing Monday morning so should I get them to ask if this should get the go ahead without delay, via PD? Or would that stir the hornets nest? I fully understand the BCO needs to come and state what I need to do to comply with regs ( to get a completion cert etc ) but would the property not have just inherited the right to residential dwelling status if it can be demonstrated that they have been used like that for decades? The flats each have kitchens and bathrooms, and divisible spaces for living and sleeping so that should be easy enough to demonstrate. Any thoughts or tips for approaching the relevant depts would be much appreciated. Ta Edited to add : The shop is in a densely populated residential area, and has been there for decades. Neighbours to the side are friendly with the owners and the one to the rear is problematic ( moans about commercial bins etc ).

"You.....Boy!" Still sends a shiver down my spine. ? If you've done it before then your obviously happy and know how to best go about it. @Bitpipe had some flush ones which I'll look at for my next projects. I've a very handy mate who works the back shift on a £1m water jet so I'd prob get the cuts done by him. Cheeky £20 and job done. Beer heals a lot of problems. ?

@JSHarris fitted a nice modulating inline instant. Check out part ( 41 iirc ) of his blog and you can see it mounted on the wall. Similar in size to a large electric shower. Why have you not fitted an electric shower out of curiosity? Then you could have got away with a small instant under the kitchen sink with a tee off for the wash basin.

Electricity / gas ? More info please Cold mains too or gravity?

Iirc, @iSelfBuild ( Richard ) stick built on site so, if he's blogged it, you may well pick up some good tips there for making cassettes / pre fab'ing / constructing a timber structure on site . If you have a slab to work off then I'd make cassettes and just flick them up onto position. That's what I intend to do for the man-shed, along with homemade trusses. Hire a nailer, get some OSB and treated 4x2, fill the fridge with beer and get cracking

Some people on youtube, and in life in general, know just enough to be dangerous. The framed / concealed / wall hung units NEED a fixed soil and flush pipe connection so the pan can be pushed back without either pipe being able to move back / away. After the rigid connections you can take the soil vertically down or horizontally sideways with the supplied connector. Onto the supplied ( 3" / 80mm European ) soil outlet goes an 80mm to 110mm uk standard adaptor. That's a male fitting which pushes into a push fit ( socket ) of a standard uk soil fitting. With a wide range of fittings available, and on a new build, there really is no excuse to resort to using a nasty flexi connector. I only use them on retro fit where the other option is either impractically expensive or the fittings just won't do what I need due to physical size / offset. DIY heroes love flexis as it removes the need for skill or imagination.

Plumb Center stock the slim flow restrictors that sit in the inlet cold pipework. WC manufacturers normally give you a little plastic corkscrew type flow arrestor for properties with abnormally high mains performance, so maybe use both one of those AND an inline restrictor. Which types of WC's do you intend fitting in the new place @ProDave ? These type of things. They're available singularly at P Ctr, rated at different litres per min flow. PS, all these things will affect how long it takes to fill the cistern, but not usually a problem tbh.

What you can't see in that picture is the original existing soil pipe set so far forward that it needed setting back to align properly with the immovable soil outlet of the WC. As soil fittings were 1) too bulky and 2) too much offset, I had no choice other than to use the most rigid flexi I could buy. I dislike flexible soil connectors passionately, and avoid them whenever possible. This was one job where it was unavoidable without re-doing the outside soil stack, which the customer declined.

Almost Would read : Cold incoming -> Instantaneous DHW Coil in TS -> Cold inlet in UVC -> DHW. The cold uplift is basically just reference to raising the incoming cold mains temperature before it gets to the UVC, so if the buffer was at 40oC and you ran a shower at 38oC you'd expect not to deplete the UVC of energy at all. Instead the ashp would bear the brunt, which would be the better option vs reinforcing via grid electric ( if Pv is unavailable / insufficient ). Lighting the stove purely to get hot water would be a pita, so the the ashp would be connected via a dedicated coil to always make dhw production just a matter of flicking a switch. I've run off a few designs ( and revisions of ) for member @readiescards which originated around a similar remit. After a very brief look at the UVC + TS setup I quickly realised there was an Achilles heel to that combination. ( at the time there was a wbs with back boiler in the remit also ). The issue I kept getting stuck on was the fact that the UVC may well be sat above the pre heated water delivery temp, so if Pv had given you a very hot tank full of DHW and you drew water through the pre heat it would cool the UVC and have an adverse affect. It would only be useful heat if the UVC was sat at ~45oC where the differential then wouldn't be quite so problematic. With a stove, and with Pv, I don't think the dhw medium should be an UVC tbh, it's just not suitable IMHO. I'd go for a dual TS setup with the upper one being at least 500ltr. This would have a dhw coil which serves the house dhw directly. It would also have a coil for the ashp to heat it. I'd then have a third point ( flow and return tappings not a coil ) to remove heat, designed with flow to be high and return low in the TS. The plot thickens . The ashp would feed a ( typically ) low temp second TS ( ~200 ltrs ) with a coil for cold mains uplift, but the primary purpose of that TS would be for providing space heating. It would also have another coil to accept excess heat from the upper TS ( from the third coil ). Basically this setup would see little or no wasted heat as the secondary TS would then double up as a heat battery. As the stove mentioned is suitable for a sealed system, you can be more creative with it under 'overheat' condition. So, you light the stove and the primary TS gets up to target temp. The circuit starts to peak out at 90+oC and then you soon have two choices, water cooling kicks in or heat gets dumped. Obviously heat dump is a waste in typical situations, but here it becomes advantageous as you have the means to shift excess heat from the primary TS to the secondary TS and max that one out too. A cylinder stat 3/4 of the way up the primary TS, set to around 65-70oC, would bring a pump on to shift the excess heat to the secondary TS which should keep the stove away from the realms of assisted cooling ( waste dump ). As the stove would typically only be used for space heating and water production when space heating is required, why not make the most use of the wood burning events? With both TS's complimenting each other ( primary charging secondary and secondary providing uplift for the cold mains ( instant ) dhw coil ), you'll have enough stored heat to give Ufh through the night and have a tank of hot water for showering in the early morning. I don't see the point in having a wbs of lighting it is going to quickly produce heat in excess of the immediate demand, and then you end up dumping the excess. If I was going to the lengths of fitting a system to accept wood burning, and I was going to fit a buffer for the Ufh, then I'd just upsize the buffer, make it a TS, and make some meaningful use out of it Another upshot of this setup is that when excess Pv roofs out the primary TS it'll still pump down to the second TS, so this excess storage solution works with both the wbs and the Pv. Another consideration will be expansion for the entire sealed system. Both TS's would require significant expansion volume for max temp tolerance so that's another thing to factor in accordingly. With a bit more thought maybe there is a better way to control the relationship between the tanks, but I'll see what critique this gets before I 'fine tune' it Waste water from the boiler as per peters comment, so no issues there. @ProDave If there was a water outage, burst main getting repaired I suppose is the only way for that to happen, then the boiler would over heat the TS and eventually the T&PRV on the TS would open ( at ~90oC ) and discharge the water to the tundish and D2 pipe to outside. Wouldn't be pretty, but it would deal with it. I think I'd want the D1 in 22mm ( upsize from 15mm to 22mm immediately after the T&PRV which are typically only ever in 15mm ) and then on to a 22x28mm tundish with 28mm or 35mm D2 to drain. Adding a cold mains accumulator would give you a reserve of pressurised cold water, so cold mains failure is addressable should it ever be a concern.

Nope. Sorry I thought you had a different type, such as the ones featured so far. You can get a flow restrictor, but it'll have to go in the inlet where the cold supply connects to the underside of the fill / float valve. Do you have access to the underside of said cistern?

Do you have a link to the ones you've chosen? Im stumped as to why anyone would buy the cisterns without the access through the large flush plates tbh, as the extra grief of creating an aesthetically pleasing tiled access panel would instantly offset any extra cost, plus, also just IMO, I think the overall result is just better across the board. The only difference I can imagine, to swing such a decision, is to get a much smaller, understated flush button. Could you explain the latter of your statement as I may not have grasped what your doing properly Ta.

Have you tried part opening the cold isolation valve to slow the water velocity? edit : NOT the ballofix 15mm isolation ( if one is fitted ) I mean the one inside the cistern.

Dont flatter yourself lol. I'll 'do it' for the good of the thread / members too and, tbph, I want to know for myself as I may well start promoting these through my business. . To summarise, that's 2 members at 3 pints each so next Friday eve is covered ???? Sweet.

Need to speak to them before I can comment tbh. I've not looked at these close enough to cast an opinion but I'll ring Monday and see what the Bobby Moore is. "Please hold the line.......your call is important to us....." ?

The only differences I can recall is some do the extraction and I've not seen it on others. I'll confess to not ever having asked / checked properly tbh, but apart from that they're much of a muchness afaic. If I had to choose I'd go Geberit, as I'd be looking for long term parts availability. That would be my primary concern. Price wise there's not a big enough difference to argue, considering this'll be buried behind your tiles for the foreseeable.

There's a higher risk of spilling a full kettle over you and causing horrific injuries than a splash of boiling water on the back of your hand from the instant tap imo. Waiting for the kettle to boil does my nut in so I'm a fan.