Nickfromwales

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My mate did that. Just bought a 1400x1800 piece of smoked, tempered glass, and a chrome wall channel. Looked the bollocks. He asked me to manage the transition from downstairs to upstairs and supply a few pairs of hands. As he was a friend in need I naturally said no chance . I knew him well enough to know he'd have made me buy it if we broke it.

The Dewalt multi tool is a lovely bit of kit. I really dislike the on off switch position on the makita, and the Dewalt one is variable speed on the trigger too so a real contender. Fwiw, the new Dewalt stuff has me SERIOUSLY tempted, with just the price tag on the new 54 volt stuff keeping me well away. ?

I'm 80%+ makita, and they're great, but you'll be hard pushed to match the Fein IMHO. If it's a daily driver, go with another Fein, but if it's occasional then the makita is an excellent choice. Don't buy an early model or you'll be stuck with the tool change for the blades, the newer one is tool-free. For eg

Which one was it ?

Is it a system boiler ( with integral pump ) ? And are there any gate valves on the flow and return to the cylinder ?

I foooishly assumed that was a given, so yes, NEVER put chrome pipe into ANY speedfit fitting. . Good shout Peter .

They're only ever going to be at =/< 2 bar so I'd not panic too much about 2 compression joints behind the rad, I've done it hundreds of times converting copper to chrome via compression bends or couplers. Ive had more immediate failures with soldered joints than compression tbh. Famous last words

Id say inside .

Bingo

Nope. Quick search found this , Thats about as good as it gets, but with the added bonus of the compression side being able to accept chromed 15mm pipe, so the exposed stuff can be nice and shiny to match the 'radiator'. Then straight into these ??

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+1

Does he mean a slab, covered in insulation and then the pipes and screed ? I understand that you sound happy with your change in direction, but I can assure you that there would be absolutely no degradation caused by the pump running. The pipes and concrete set as one, and therefore there cannot be ANY movement. Movement is required to caused abrasion, so that type of fault / leak simply wouldn't occur IMHO. I believe he has given you a bum steer there, and I've also fitted this stuff for years, AND been responsible for screeding it. The only difference between me and your chap is I have zero stories to tell about leaking / damaged / burst Ufh pipes, howsoever caused . I know which one I'd listen to. .

Very disappointing that they failed to respond positively. Byron needs to get a new UFH designer, as, witnessed by myself, this was far below any acceptable standard. There was better available for free . I promoted them for their supply only services, and technical support ( in-house ), but as far as their design services go ( outsourced ) the writing is unfortunately on the wall.

@readiescards Buy a pressure gauge and fit a non return ( double check ) valve to it. Connect that to your outside tap and leave on for 48 hours. That will capture the peak STATIC pressure available and is critical survey info to ascertain your best cold mains solution. 1 2 3 Test and report back.

That's a hell of a hosepipe

Is this not a neighbour issue ?

+1 on those electri saver units. I fit them when we do uvc's with a 20a switch paralleled as a master override .

Busted. ??

Pike in the mid 20's. I'll stay here ?

A break tank, as @PeterW rightly says, disconnects you from the incoming mains supply, hence the name 'break tank'. The local water authority will prosecute anyone who creates a deficit on the water network e.g. drawing water in excess of the natural supply flow rate. In Wales the max you can pump at is 11.5-12 litres per minute, anything over that and your in the ?. They can be approached and have to supply a minimum flow rate & static pressure but good luck enforcing that. It's with that annoyance that folk make their own system with what's available. The Grunfos Home Booster linked above is a very good unit which I would recommend as a Plug n Play option, but I'd add a heafty accumulator to compliment it if it were me. It states a 180 litre capacity with the option to double it, but I think I'd go for a 3-500 litre accumulator as you'll only get 60% of the vessel capacity in actual stored water ( the rest of the volume is pressurised air or gas which is compressed to give back pressure as a means of storing energy ). Accumulators will only give the stored volume and will then be exhausted, at which point your water pressure & flow rate will return to whatever comes in from the street.....( you can only get a pint out of a pint pot ). To combat that Achilles heel you simply design the system so the stored volume is rarely / never depleted. Ill give Grunfoss a ring and find out what makes that unit tick, but I'm pretty sure that fitting an accumulator downstream will massively improve its performance, longevity, and the systems ability to deliver high flow rates for longer durations. I am interested in whether it pumps from an open break tank, or if it has a regulated pump which draws off the mains and pumps into an inbuilt, sealed accumulator. @readiescards , what has made you say you need to supplement your cold mains ?

Put a break tank in the garage and pump into an accumulator / s. No need whatsoever for a tank in the attic unless it's too late to get a pipe in between the house and garage? Just done one exactly like this.

Hi and welcome aboard. Sounds like a great place you've got there. . Maybe I'll buy a new rod, gits nicked my last one from the shed. ?

'Tis good ?