Nickfromwales

I'm not biting, we both know where this will end

? I bet your a bit tempted ?

I tell people this until I'm blue in the face. Builders just want to skim, fack knows why, maybe just about earning the price for meterage perhaps . Tiling directly onto PB is the better job, and, if part tiled, you can simply plaster to skim 'stop beads' a couple of hundred mm past the point that the tiles stop.

Still better than the risks associated with buying a taylor wimpey home, even if they do now 'boast' "quality insulation" and "water saving boilers". Wtf . @jack, are these issues currently only in the bathrooms? Edit : oops, wrong thread to ask. I'll just nip next door to jacks house

Duplicate thread deleted. .

Seem to have set in pretty well. What's your gut feeling? The stuff is just too brittle for my liking so I'll be sticking with PB.

Best to add that it's all to do with installer competence at the end of the day. Thats the 6th sense when one knows that a screw has gone in far enough and the board has firmed up against the timber. Many people assume that a tight screw is good enough, but it may still have to go a bit 'more' to send it fully home. PB screws are an extremely bad choice for this job as they're fully threaded, so are considerably more likely to promote jacking, but worse still they are very thin and extremely brittle so tend to snap very easily when more torque is applied than they're meant to accept. They're designed for soft plasterboard not rock hard backer boards . They'll snap even if you just accidentally drive them into a large knot so to use them for this application has, imo, been done out of laziness and / or penny-pinching.

Elementary my dear Watson

Tbh, porcelain is porcelain. The gubbings inside the cistern can be completely changed from as little as £30 ( fluid master replacement kit inc flush / button / fill valve ) so I'd just buy the shape / style you want / can afford. My only advice is to make sure you get stainless through bolts, to connect the cistern to the pan, and likewise with the seat hinges. I cant really say I've seen a cheap / bad bog before, but plenty where they've been supplied with cheap / disgracefully bad gubbings which have come with perfectly acceptable chinaware. Any links ?

I was pleased at the number of fixings the tiler used

Yup. That's what I'm getting at. Clear the threads and its bingo bango.

That's teferred to as 'jacking', where the threads grab the board on the way through and the screw tip hits the joist. It takes the screw a couple of revolutions to penetrate the timber and start biting, but those couple of revs have then lifted ( jacked ) the board away from the joist leaving a gap between the two. Unawares, the person driving the screw home assumes that when the screw head snugs into the board the fixing is complete, but actually the board is held away slightly with only the thread of the screw holding the board in place. Simply leaning against the board would be enough to lose that purchase ( tearing the board from the screw thread ) and start the board moving freely between the head of the screw and the face of the timber. Thats when the ? hits the fan.

Yup, which is why you buy the right size drill bit

Best put your Sherlock hats on first people That looks like a gas multipoint, so will have no electricity supply. Piezo ignition and a balanced flue = perfectly legal.

This lady is not for turning ? Pilot and countersink, and no less than 150mm centre, 100mm would be better.

Don't use self drillers. Pilot with a drill bit ( sacrificial one ) and countersink as per @PeterStarck's comment. S/S fixings. Dont cause any distress to the board by forcing fixings through it as that will compromise each attempt at securing the board and make fitting it pointless. I'm still a PB fan, and not lost a patient yet.

This stinks of the backer boards not being fixed properly to me.

Get one elevation stripped of tiles and adhesive. Then simply push against the backer boards to check for movement / fixings etc. Let's find out how many screws and where before we speculate any further. Fwiw, I've blobbed tiles on many a time, but only in instances where they've been on horrendously uneven walls and I've had to pull the wall plumb and straight ( large shower cubicle etc ) so it can be done. I always use cementitious adhesive in theses cases, NOT ready made acrylic stuff, as the latter can only be applied 5mm thick at most as it just doesn't set, literally for weeks, otherwise. If you have a non-porous background like cement board then you should not be using acrylic full stop, and the same goes if it's a porcelain tile as the moisture just doesn't have anywhere to go. Same applies again if the area has been tanked, regardless of tile type. @jack, do you know what type was used? Tub or bags of powder. ?

Update here when your ready .

I know it's easy for me to say sat here, but the proposal isn't exactly rocket science even with the PHE's and the buffer included. Lets see what he can do / offer.

In the last pic I can see some sort of straight strip / joint. What is it? Also, how the hell can we see a drywall screw head, and even worse it looks proud of the adhesive? The tile adhesive has been blobbed on too, rather than solid bed. . None of the affixed area should be void of adhesive. Take the tiles off jack, as otherwise this is just guess work tbh. Seeing that regular plasterboard screws have been used is not good.

May the force be with you. ?

I gave up repairing domestic appliances as its just a pita. Strip them and repair one thing, then another goes. A day off work and a headache? I'd rather give the £300. ??

How much if you don't mind me asking?

Bloody hell. Just bought 100m of blue and brown sleeving.