Nickfromwales

35

and what do you connect the Xbox, PS4 and gaming PC to? ?

You would with 4 kids and no bloody wifi. ?

Another thing to nudge you towards tiling A thing of beauty ?

Branches everywhere. ??

Only this one. Slip a small offcut ( x2 ) of 12mm ply say 80x80mm up behind the PB at the top, one either side of the white flush pipe. ( Screw a 6x100mm into the middle of each piece to make a handle so you can pull it tight against the PB ), then screw through the PB into the ply to make 2 ply patresses which are flush with the front of the blue frame. Cut a nice bit of 12mm ply ( 15mm may be better if the PB is 12.5mm and the skim takes the total thickness of the existing wall up to 15mm ), and make a piece that fills the top gap as best as possible. Apply a bit of neat PVA to the ply and your good to tile. Does that suit, Madame?

Re tiling, NEVER use ready mixed acrylic adhesive. Ever. Use a flexible powder floor / wall adhesive and make sure the tiles are buttered and the wall is full bed. Plumbers or sparkys diamond core drills will cut through later so up to you how brave you feel, but that's what I use for porcelain. Another cheat is to have two tiles meet at the centreline of the WC so you can nibble two semi-circles out of each tile accordingly.

It's only the 4th one that bothers me. That would benefit from some 12mm ply ( not PB ) with a hard setting adhesive such as PinkGrip. The weight transfers ( pivots on the bolts ) to the bar below the soil / pan connector with the upper section typically only ever seeing compression from the fixings. . Remember that the pan doesn't even touch the wall where your cutouts are so relax, pack No.4 a bit better, and take yourselves off for a vino. NOTE: For others approaching this point ( boarding ) just get a nice template that sits onto the pan connector and mark the other hole sizes & centres. Take the soil and flush plugs out and bung them or tape them up to protect the seals. Let your boarders just cut a 50mm cutout where the centre of the soil is and leave them board the wall WITHOUT cutting out for the various gubbings. Plasterers and boarders are great at boarding and plastering, but lack tools like hokesaws etc so don't expect any more of you leave them uninstructed otherwise. ( and sorry @JanetE as I can already hear you shouting "now he tells us!" ). Edit to add : mark a vertical plumb line on the face of the template so; 1) you get it spot on after boarding ( as you'll have no other visual reference ) 2) you don't use the template the wrong way around when cutting the holes later. ?

Ŵunderbar. ?

Dhw specs of the 838 and 938 For running 2 showers, the 938 is far better imo. Very much similar results to having a 200ltr UVC as the stored water blends in to reinforce DHW delivery from the plate heat exchanger. Benefit with the 938 Is also when the house is occupied throughout the day and lots of small amounts of DHW are being drawn off, washing hands after loo / swilling the odd dish etc, as there is no delay in getting the hot water to the outlet other than the pipe run. Both good machines, but if you want as near to UVC performance as you can get without having a cylinder, it's the 938 all the way. For a combi the DHW delivery is quite remarkable, but remember it's cold mains dependant so a crap cold mains = crap DHW, ( REGARDLESS of the boilers capability to provide it ). .

The second seal resides very close to the mouth of the pipe. . Be wary that you only put the absolute slightest of chamfers or you risk that second seal not fully compressing and seating as it should. I would advise against power tools for this as 'over-reaming' would be detrimental.

Pressure gauges on each outlet will see you go crazy. Static pressure and dynamic pressure will give two completely different readings. For e.g; you'll have all the gauges showing max static pressure when no outlets are being used. Flush a loo and they'll all drop. Flush a loo whilst the bath is running and they'll all pretty much drop off, maybe altogether, and so on. Dont confuse pressure and flow . You can have water coming out of the shower but be using all of the dynamic pressure, ( so a gauge would show next to no pressure ), but you'd have adequate flow. This is ENTIRELY case-specific, so each scenario will differ, but my point is that the gauges would cause more confusion than help. My main advice would be to upsize the cold mains to 22mm straight after the stopcock if possible as that run is the one that has the biggest demand on it. E.g. You open the shower valve and a blend of hot and cold comes out, but it's the single pipe feeding the cold to the house that has to provide both sets of pressure & flow. ?

I'm a little more 'rough and ready' . I use my Bahco Spanner with the jaws wide apart, and push one jaw into the open end of the pipe. A quick 1/2 turn left, and another to the right, and it gives a perfect chamfer to the internal bore so, as Jeremy rightly says, it doesn't damage the seals on the fittings or inserts. A bit of silicone lube is advised, and can make this a bit less precarious a job for the uninitiated .

Typically I use 2 of these, connected to one of these, then a fan such as this. Ive fitted this exact setup in all of my wetroom / large shower installs and with great results. Ive used the 'dreaded' flexible ducting many times, but admittedly not for any real distance ( as I mount the fan in the ceiling usually and vent straight out the roof via a lead state and roof terminal ), again without issue. The centrifugal ( inline ) fans are very quiet indeed, and I've had to stick bits of A4 to the fans to demonstrate they're actually on and working.

Grant is the make .

Explanation please ?

Do away with all cylinders etc and just fit an oil combi ? They're exceptionally good at producing DHW and you'll have a single box solution with no G3. Youll get a tidy Grant for around £2k Internal or chuck it outside in a coal shed External Seriously, it's a contender, unless your ever fitting PV.

Cheap enough too. Im looking at bulk LED options as they're brighter, last longer and use much less juice . Bingo

Exactly what i use on all boxing in and bath panelling etc. Sticks like shoot to a blanket and never lost a patient. Unlike what i have found when tile adhesive ( especially the ready mixed crap in a tub ) has been used and I've been called in to regrout it, and worse, redo it all where the grout has failed and water has pulled through and rotted all the wood from the inside out. Looks great until the day it all just turns to mulch and falls apart. By then the floor has usually gone too. Belt n braces folks . ?

Never used an epoxy grout TBH. Proof again that many heads are better than one . My concerns are where the trims meet tile and grout as there is little or no purchase against the metal or plastic imo. The issue is amplified when using timber frame as it expands and contracts a lot compared to brick / blockwork installs.

I'd get angry............if it wasn't for your grandson looking such a handsome little chap. Awwww!

Try and keep it simple for me ok ?! ??

Can you ping a link here ( as you update the blog ) please? I just want to make sure the technical stuff stays on track

At least you've chosen a sensible colour, which should negate the problems described in my last. . Pergamon tiles with jasmine grout wasn't a great idea for a full ground floor TBH, but the lady wasn't for turning. I do try to advise people, but I only say things once as anything after that often causes offence. And i'm know for my subtlety