Nickfromwales

That would work, and I've done a few where the border separates tiled lower / painted upper sections. The cuts look like they're not going to get much better, so border-decision time . T'would be good to lose that top rip though . Re adhesive, go to the smaller tile outlets / big BM and compare prices. Standard set regular for the walls, standard or rapid set FLEXIBLE for the floor. I'm averaging £12-15 per 20kg but B&Q do the Mapei stuff for stupid cheap now and then so check them out too. My mate paid £7 a bag the other day but I didn't see if they were 20kg or not. £12.17 for 20kg of Mapei rapid set. Trade point need you to log in for prices can't remember my password lol. Look ( in trade point ) for the Mapei in the brown bags / trade one They deffo do standard set as my mate bought it by mistake.

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With the double quadrant at the head of the shelf, is that all fixed yet? If not, tile and make sure there's no adhesive on the back of the tile. Then just bond it on afterwards? Tile cuts in the corners don't need to match unless it's just a bit of luck. I'd go for the better cuts / sizes according to the wall. The floor should be tiled first, but in my early days I used to tile the room off a batten, leaving the bottom course of tiles off, then I'd tile the floor, and then I'd remove the batten and carefully cut / scribe each bottom tile in to finish. If it were me, I'd do the drain and the wetroom area first, then the rest of the floor. Get that out of the way and you'll be able to focus 100% on the walls without the floor winding you up. Plus, not forgetting of course, the wall drain video shows that it needs to be connected, scrim'd, tanked and bedded in, floor and wall, prior to tiling. .

20-30 mins should suffice. Most of the expansion is in the first 5-10 mins max.

We used to reside on Ebuild. I dug this exchange up from there, which goes into a lot of detail. http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/14379-thermal-store-advice-comments/page__hl__jaspi

Sticks like shit to a blanket. I do the zig zag, press it firmly into place and squash the foam, then pull the two apart. See if there are any areas / voids that the foam hasn't stuck, top up there and then re-press into place and support. Even the low expansion foams will bite you on the arse if you don't have a robust method for holding the plinth completely tight against the eps.

I've fitted them before, and no complaints so far. And if they went tits up, oh would people complain. . For that money I'd grab them. Or share ?

I'll put a man on it @Trw144......oi!

Beware standing on the corners. A mate came to cove a bathroom for me 'to speed things along'. Cost me £760 and 6 weeks delay when he stepped on the corner and took the f****r clean off.

Every day is a school day here John . Welcome aboard!

Oh, and with runs as far away as 25m, I'd be seriously considering a hot return loop for instant hot water at every outlet.

Don't forget these will have to be galvanised steel headers, and quite big ones too. The overflow pipe will need to be 28mm copper minimum ( I'd do 35mm as when these things boil, these things BOIL ). Have you got an outbuilding / can otherwise accommodate a log gasification boiler?

Random grab here

Id say every 900mm, but there should be a regs standard for horizontal soil pipe runs.

For larger penetrations through steel ( when working on cruise liners / oil tankers etc ) they used to weld a very thick walled pipe back into an oversized hole. That pipe section acted as a sleeve for the actual service. That was then over plated either side with the tube section adding a lot of the removed rigidity. Section of tube was about 100-150mm long iirc. I'd say it can be done, but the original steel may have had to have been specced to grade 3 at the design stage to permit it. Deffo an SE question as it'll be required for your paper trail and warranty anyway.

100%. A sheet of 6mm ply is best. Nothing worse than causing damage and going backwards. Ask me how I know ?

The neutraliser is the key part, which separates the differing potentials and sources.

A typical setup mixing fossil and wood Aka : a royal pain in the arse.

If the ground is not great, use a flagstone as a pad, then wet concrete pads on those to actually hold the pipe. Come 1/2 way up the pipe, no need for more than they afaik. Just make sure it's benched either side so it can't move. Get a laser and work out the fall over the distance. That'll tell you your fall.

Hi and welcome back. How did you find us ?

The water may be normal / evidence from it having been wet tested as part of the manufacture / quality-control process. I cannot, however, recall ever having one delivered with evidence of that so question that with Wunda. @JSHarris, any feedback? The rest is just bad business, and at the least they should have offered you a seconds discount / opportunity to decline them. Return the lot, less the manifold, unless you can see evidence that the manifold has been fitted previously. As coffee stains and paint splashes won't really harm the performance I'd go for a discount on the price and shave a few bucks off the cost

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As I'm often on one man jobs, I have to be quite inventive when the likes of 500ltr cylinders arrive and have to go up vertically. A similar take on @JSHarris rope clutch method is my use of the humble ratchet strap. One around the cylinder, and then 2 more to pull the thing north. When your on your own, it's brain over brawn .

Used them a good few times ? Good kit and no complaints, cheap enough too.

Don't go bigger than 2.5mm2 or on longer runs you can start losing high end / treble due to capacitance. We used to run our 18" bass bins off 4mm2 so 1.5 should more than suffice for domestic drivers.