Nickfromwales

Your tray is going flat on the floor without legs yes / no? If you don't seal the tray down to the floor first, THEN lay the flooring, splashing water will use that like the m25 to go under the tray and stay there. It's a huge no no. Flooring last so that when it needs changing it's only the vanity and loo to remove to do so.

@Crofter Why would the flooring run under the tray ? Your not putting it up on legs are you ?

Have a break in the supplied cable, say 100mm into the stud wall and inline crimp it to the cable coming from your timer / controller. This one came with a cable transit at cost, but a piece of 15 or 22mm chrome pipe with a pipe collar would do it.

Any timeclock tbh, as long as the 230v AC rating of the contacts is rated accordingly. One like this is a neat all in one solution with fuse, isolator and timer in one. https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/fused-timer-spur-white-875917?vat=1&shopping=true&mkwid=s_dt&pcrid=157072925424&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImvPe06j81QIViL3tCh1q5AusEAQYASABEgKxx_D_BwE

You've got a digger too. Half in, half out, steps down to the store compartment.........wait........store compartment? Didn't I mean to say "Mini-bar / DJ booth". . I want one. ?

Now we're talking . Ian, somewhere to soak that blistered foot ? ? Room for an ashp or log burner and BBQ in the end. @Onoff "I'm looking, and I'm liking"

Don't forget we have a 'marketplace' section here . http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/forum/47-market-place/

Clive........"Granoooooooooola" !!!

This is gold mate. Wedding rings even my gold one ( which I never take off for anything regardles of the possibility of being skinned alive, as losing it would involve me being skinned from head to foot anyway ) cause serious marking. Watch straps are the same. On the £3k Victoria and Albert bath I posted pics of recently I rubbed a mark off, just some sticky residue from the electrical tape I used ( as a reference marker for the taps before the job got started as the customer then went to Spain for 3 weeeks ) and I noticed a small dark grey graze. I rubbed it vigorously and it eventually went, then another one. After two I realised I was making the chuffing new marks with my ring by rubbing off the other one. Its only £3k lol.

Not too shabby ?

No more than if it were a boss on the stack ?

Heat rises, so as long as you've got at least 200mm of insulation then go for the trays as said. That'll lift the pipe slightly and make laying the pipe easy. It'll also absorb some of the volume of concrete required due to the castellations. At 150mm I'd just add fibres.

Ah, yes. I forgot about the chamber of poop. Just make sure the end of the pipe is above water level in the gulley, but BELOW the grate, as hair blocks that in days.

Not too steep imo. Is it going into a gulley or a boss on the stack ?

?

I'd have the mesh in a heartbeat just to 100% mitigate against future cracking and that coming through any final floor coverings such as tiles. Seen too many "too late to do anything about that now" 's to advise otherwise. Cheap enough and bombproof.

Is your floor 150mm ?

Nutter

Why don't you knock one up on the lathe?

Manufacturer increase not resellers increase .

You don't really want it on the underside of the slab, but I'd say 50mm up would suffice. A pita to facilitate though, so I'd go for clipped to the mesh and use caution when fixing down. Bearing in mind that with accurate plans you would be laying the pipes away from the stud walls at the very least so this risk can be reduced or mitigated against with reasonable sense / ease.

@CC45 They only go through resellers. A TS would give you a single cylinder solution, but if you go that way you would be better off slightly larger so you don't have to heat it quite as hot as you normally would. They can be sized pretty close to the demand tbh but then need to be heated to higher temps ( close to 80oC) to get the sustain, and cylinder heat losses become problematic at those temps. Going larger means you can run at a lower set temp, lower standing losses, and a bigger thermal battery to charge off Pv, which are advantages I'd favour even though I knew I'd never otherwise 'need' the additional volume. Pv via an immersion would exceed the set temp ( say 60oC ) and roof the TS out at around 70-75oC, so any excess would be stored in this redundancy aka headroom. An UVC would have to have the immersions set lower ( so less headroom to store Pv ) as they're not designed to be sat that high in normal service due to regs on safety for the max temp of DHW available. TS's all have factory supplied blending valves ( TMV's ) on the DHW outlet to control max DHW temp to the outlets to allow them to be run much hotter, so that's already covered by the TS design. A buffer would only be kept warm during the heating seasons and would otherwise be cold, but the UVC would be warm / hot near enough 24/7, only losing a certain amount of heat between being topped up to the set temp every timed hot water event, so if your going to keep a cylinder warm / hot / warm anyway then I'd prob go for a TS. Pv would obviously maintain the upper temp range of an UVC during the day regardless of the DHW time clock settings, so another reason maintaining a larger cylinder wouldn't be so much more inefficient. A TS is basically an instantaneous water heater, so you'll get better DHW production too as a TS heated on demand by a boiler will give nigh-on constant high flow DHW, much like a huge combi, whereas an UVC will drain DHW off faster than the coil can replace it, even more so with the smaller kW boiler. That could be mitigated against by choosing and oversizing an UVC but then still leaves you with no buffer. For sizing, add the two stated volumes together ( buffer and UVC ) and your at 350 litres or thereabouts anyway so a 350-400 litre TS would be best ( if low temp storage and Pv is factored in ) or 250-300 litre if just the boiler is being allowed for the heat source and deffo no Pv. Do you think it's likely you'll ever have Pv? It's quite critical info when deciding upon a design / sizing etc. A TS of this size could have 2 x 3kw immersions fitted, one above the other, so if you wanted to further reduce ( summer overheating ) standing losses you could, in the summer, divert Pv into the upper immersion set to a lower temp, and then, in the winter, divert Pv into the lower immersion set at a much higher temp when space heating is also required. A simple seasonal manual changeover switch would facilitate that for just a few tenners. The tappings can be specified upon ordering the cylinder, but yes, indepenadant sets for the rads and Ufh on the mid section of the tank will be required. For the rads you'll have to blend the flow to get 'safe' temp water to them or they could be get uncomfortably or dangerously hot, however that's quite easily achieved by just fitting a TMV across the flow and return tappings immediately before the radiator circuit pump. Then you can user define the surface temp of the rads and get them down to a manageable temp which is a very handy feature. For eg; If you go for an UVC and rads + Ufh then your plumber would likely set the boiler flow temp equal to or higher than the cylinder stat set temp ( say 60oC ) so as to get it up to temp quickly and get the stated volume of DHW vs size. The downfall with that is the boiler flow temp would then dictate the surface temp of your radiators, so in a well insulated house they may well get way too hot and cause discomfort but you'd have no means of attenuating that ( basically the same reason you'd need the TMV on the rad pump off the TS as just mentioned above, but then you'd have such control ). With an ashp I'd rbe commend the two tank setup, but with gas I'd go for the TS. This all sounds quite complicated when delivered quite concentrated in this breif, but it's actually quite straight forward. Make the physical side of the install and the operating disciplines separate and it becomes more digestible, but fitting a system you can fine tune will give more efficiency long term IMO so is worth the extra consideration at least. Nuts and bolts :- Boiler to TS controlled by the cylinder stat for max boiler efficiency per 'burn' Internal TS DHW coil for DHW production ( via supplied TMV ) will run 2 showers simultaneously with ease Ufh off dedicated tappings direct to manifold ( with supplied pump and TMV ). No secondary pump required for flow between the TS and the manifold Rads off second set of dedicated tappings ( via customer supplied TMV and additional pump ) 1 x 2-port motorised valve on each flow to stave off unwanted convection heat circulation when there is no demand. 3 in total, 1 for boiler, 1 for rads circuit and 1 for Ufh circuit. Hows that for breakfast reading ?

Comments and pics as you progress would be much appreciated. We need to keep building the library here and major events such as these are self-build gold dust, warts and all please . Oh, and don't get in the way, Brendan doesn't hang about .

@Barney12, I rally didn't see this happening @JSHarris, I think this digression should get some sort of BH award. Stunning to see though.

It'll only teach the money makers how to better distance themselves from blame. Nowt else.