Nickfromwales

What typo ?

More to the point, they don't understand or foresee the consequences of missing such basic but vital links in the chain. A lot of them rely on Bco's that don't double check everything, a disservice to the customer who has paid for that service. On a garage conversion I was involved in, one Bco asked for holes to be drilled into the garage slab to PROVE that it was thick enough to take 5 courses of block for the internal, and then watched as the outer lip of the footing was also drilled for the same. Once happy he left after giving strict instructions on what needed to be done to open and clean the cavity out. He asked for photos of everything if it was being covered before his return. On another job, the builders used a petrol disc cutter to make two lines in the slab. They got the labourer to chase out about 2-3" of the concrete, bought some concrete in bags, mixed it and troweled it back in. When the Bco came out he said "have you dug a suitable footing ?" They replied "yes, of course we have, look the concrete is still soft from the 'pour'". Bco said happy days and left. He wasn't so happy when he came back and they were trying to hide the pair of 3600mm concrete lintels that they'd tried to put in stead of steels. That wall was load bearing and taking the hip of the roof. They beat my price by £2k, and bodged every single thing they did and cut every corner they could. They just kept redoing it until the Bco said that'll do. There are builders, and then there are men who bought building tools and a van. Huge difference. Check with at least two previous customers so you know if things went south on previous jobs.

They could be cut down so they just project 5mm or so and spray paint them to match the pots. Deflecting the majority of the water away will solve most, if not all of the problem, as long as it's 100% deffo not getting into the chimney under the pots. @readiescards, what is under the pots? Does it have a slab or other as a closure plate?

Waterproofer will hold the moisture / damp in. That's the opposite to a cure ! ?

That's why this place works so well. Instead of shouting the reason at you we just whispered it loudly

Hi @albert Ok, a bit to chew through so bear with us First thing we need to know is what pressure the pump throws out and what flow rate / for how long it can sustain it. Pumping into an open 'break' tank has many issues, mostly that of inadequate pressure that you've lost by dumping the water into said tank. Have you heard of cold mains accumulators ? These are big metal tanks ( like a giant coke can ) that have a 1/2" thick rubber ballon ( called a diaphragm ) inside. When these are filled with water, by a pump so it's forced in, a pocket of air on the other side of the diaphragm gets compressed creating stored energy in two forms. One form is the compression of that air, and the other is the starching of the diagram, like you pulling back a catapult filled with water. This setup takes the pulsed influx of pressurised water that your pump provides and holds it against its will. That usually resides at around 3bar or more if your pump can go that high and creates what is know as an "artificial cold mains" supply. It gives you a stored water system that is regulated by the pump, shunting water into the accumulator but the supply pipe doesn't suffer the 'jerks' that connecting direct to the pump would cause. You'd typically want a single 500L or a pair of 300L accumulators for a typical domestic household, but you have the benefit of the cold mains too, so you could decease the stored volume ( and cost of the accumulators ) by working out how much water you use in a 24hr period. Forget the 5000 L tank, and get rid of the shower pumps, this is the any forward, ( if you have the budget of course) . If that's an issue then just say so and we'll help you make the most of what you've got. ?

Raising the roof, eh? ? "I'm in!" ??? Hi and welcome to the best forum for your building woes to be aired, and put to bed ?

Over say 100m2 what would be the additional weight of the extra 100mm of wet concrete poured? I would think that would be factored in to the specifics for the ground preparation at the design stage, possibly requiring additional sub base preparation etc, plus the extra cost filling the volume with concrete would be significant. I think your maths may be out but I've been wrong before . So basically twice the cost, and an additional 50+ days to dry out. Plus it's lower insulation value under a heated slab. ?

Obviously there's a reservoir there filled with rainwater. That should be a relatively quick fix. To advise any further we would really need to be up some scaffolding poking around .

Draw string. Too many days pulling cables in too many different places lol. sorry

? 2 sheets of of 100mm EPS can be carried by one man. That negates over half a m3 of concrete ! Why on earth would you actively remove insulation from under your heated slab? 200mm of eps isn't exactly poor, but not as good as 300mm. Also, the additional weight of flooding to the full ring beam depth may push your groundworks and S/E costs up so I think this option is a ? ? Ask yourself one simple question...."Should I be buying more concrete unnecessarily, or fitting more insulation that will serve me better over my time in the property". Fwiw, I'm constantly arguing with customers 'builders' over slab construction, and specifications of, when I'm fitting UFH and screed after they have left. For some reason they prefer to pour ridiculous amounts of concrete into sunroom / conservatory / extension slabs instead of using more insulation. I can only imagine it's because that's how their great gran-pappy used to do it "during the war" and he didn't get any complaints. That and the fact that they won't be contributing to the additinal energy consumption that the poor floor type will cause .

Good luck with that, sir Get some cheap drain rods and use those to send a new fish rope through. Oh, and tie a new fish rope onto the Swa when you pull it for Justin ?

I would expect to see, and would have fitted without being asked / instructed, full depth noggins at the joist ends just before the hangers. Even better would have been a full depth timber wall plate. Agree with @JSHarris a photo with more detail would have been beneficial but it doesn't look from the photos that the joists penetrate the wall ( for end restraint ) ? I know what my reply to that would have been.....

Simple. Pass it to the person you paid money to.

What are you waiting for?

You can only survey this with a laser and the floor exposed ( carpets up ). Also, you can't measure where the boards meet as they'll likely have cupped slightly, or a lot, with weather / exposure.

Simple physics. If the slab gets to say 35oC surface temperature ( so becomes an emitter of heat ) and the watts per m2 it's chucking out is greater than the heat loss ( fabric AND ventilation ) of the house then the house will warm up. The flow temp, as set on the manifold TMV, is selected according to how the slab absorbs and dissipates heat, so no two jobs will be identical. How much insulation is under your 75mm heated slab?

You at the cider again ?

Put the receiver under the bath

Roberts ya muvvas bruvva

I've just literally quoted a job ( well JUST before my poxy arm injury ) in a brand new static caravan. I saw these in my local TLC and thought they'd save a lot of trunking. Deffo will be featuring in bathroom jobs of the future. The ones I DO love are the sensor / proximity ones that @PeterW linked, where you put the sensor behind a tile / other, and simply swipe your hand past it to bring a light / other On or off. That's the dogs bollocks, but for a lesser budget these Kinetic ones are superb. ?

Nice lights. .

I'd spray on a Shultz tote coating, the stone chip stuff that typically gets put onto car lower panels, sills prior to spray painting them, commonly referred to as stone chip. That's should help a lot, and be easy ( but messy ) to apply, but ideally would have to be applied after the roof is up. The dense rubber mats, available in 8'x4' x 1/4" - 1/2" thick as an underlay may also help out if you don't have the means to go for the much deeper cellulose filled cavity. Layering will need some thought to avoid it sweating.

A worthwhile trudge, none the less. . Pics are a quick n easy way of updating .

The tray and overflow pipe is just so much easier and requires no thought. Run the discharge pipe over a door or window so you can see it's leaking reasonably quickly. Dont forget a simple easily accessible means of local isolation, like a 1/4 turn lever valve.