Nickfromwales

I searched for that and drew a blank. Rail was the missing key word.........bugger. Cheers @Onoff

Where does the neutral come from or don't you know ? Does th switch have the neutral there, connected together so it goes to the fitting ?

?. Second thoughts.......leave the pv ?

Sun will remain in the sky, but oil prices are only going to go up and up. .

Yup. With a quench system it's ( the WBS/BB ) seen as a sealed and pressurised arrangement which you can fully pump eg any pipe run should be feasible as long as normal disciplines are observed, like air release valves at the highest points etc. If you have such a plentiful supply of dry seasoned wood available, and routinely burn regardless, then I'd 100% get a WBS/BB fitted and go for a bigger TS. Your summer standing losses will increase slightly as you'll be storing more water, but you can lower the boiler flow temp a little to help there, plus, as I've said, I'd really think of pv to offset these latent losses. Youll have to manage the burns to suit your storage, e.g. no point in having a roaring fire heating water that can't be stored anywhere, plus you may want to fit a huge K2 ( double ) radiator in the garage or outhouse for heat dump, pumped from the TS controlled by a dedicated high limit stat. That should stop your quench system doing overtime as you should design now to limit that functions requirement, other than it operating as a terminal / failsafe. Doesn't matter if it means a super long pipe run to the heat loss rad, but fitting one is imo a very good idea. You could put a clothes airer above it on the garage for drying towels etc in the winter so it's functional too.

MCS ?

As an aside, for the sake of 15mm why not get a 1700 bath and lose that horrible gap at the end ? You can cut into the wall and bury the non-business end with relative ease.

All subject-relevant though tbh . When you understand all the peripherals / diversities you can better understand how fitting the plenums in different locations can be practically and effectively achieved.

+1 and what I would have done.

After re-reading, I'd seriously reconsider this TBH, and try to at least fit a non-MCS system now, maybe just 2kw, so your cabled out and can upgrade in the future with more panels and MCS sign off if necessary. You can still export to the grid, but you need to contact the DNO for that arrangement / it's feasibility. Offsetting the losses from the TS and covering your background electricity consumption would be a wise choice if this property will be your snuff-box.

Yes. The UFH manifold must have a pump to circulate the water through the TMV and back into the loops. No need for a pump to get from the TS to the manifold as it'll pull through by itself, unless it's the most adverse run in history. In most cases yes, but a lot here from our days at Ebuild http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/14379-thermal-store-advice-comments/page__fromsearch__1 Worth a read.

That would be too easy ??

You can add a "flue boiler" to an existing wood burner ( if it isn't already a wood burning stove with back boiler ). Random internet grab for example only A TS is exactly the kind of medium that would be required when integrating multiple heat sources, so yes, you could. The question is can I afford to do it and would it be both practical and economical to do so . It's a twat of a job to retrofit this, but you can get a WBS with a BB off the shelf that can have a pumped flow and return on a sealed circuit ( so can be pumped left / right / up / down without gravity constraints ), plus has no need for open header tanks and all that faff as they are cooled by a cold mains 'sprinkler' which cools them down accordingly if they boil or overheat etc. @djvasey, David, any feedback on yours? Oh and for the UFH manifold...... Are the runs way over 100m in length if you don't put the manifold in the middle? If centralising the manifold is easier then by all means do it, but running insulated flow and return pipework between the TS and the manifold is in no way problematic.

Just rang Grant and they no longer do a true heat-store combi. Ones of yesteryear had a TS inside the boiler with a DHW coil and had fantastic DHW flow rates, but now they use an integral TS to collect heat for a DHW plate heat exchanger, BUT if not used to its max output it still suffers from short cycling, ( made even worse if you specify the largest 36kw model and only run a basin hot tap for eg ), plus you'd still need a buffer for the UFH. System boiler and TS seems the way forward. You could still consider a stand alone buffer for the UFH, so only heated seasonally, and a separate UVC for DHW. No reason you couldn't do that, and decrease your summer nuisance heat loss / cost. If the wife likes a nice warm airing cupboard then the TS will provide that year-round.

+1 As it's a year round heat battery, eg you need it hot all summer just for DHW, it stays hot 24/7/365 for DHW + space heating. Storing at lower set temp means lower standing losses but that can only be achieved by going bigger in capacity. @Tin Soldier Is pv in or out of the equation?

Deffo a system boiler as it's all in one box For a TS you will get a great price off Trevor@ cylinders2go. Just mention the forum and my username and he will quote you happy. 07939 996940. To proceed with an order you'll need to know tank size ( capacity in L ), DHW coil size 22mm or 28mm ( bigger is better ), number of tappings and what they're for, number and size of immersion heaters ( e.g. 2 x 3kw etc ) and number of thermostat pockets ( usually only one for the cylinder thermostat if a system boiler ), so get your ducks in a row here first . You don't need to go any bigger with the TS as circa 300-350l will give you a decent buffer size for DHW sustain, have enough volume to heat transfer linear to two showers being run or a bath + 1 shower etc without a drop in DHW performance, ( subject to the boiler heating the TS on demand via the cyl stat ), and be big enough to get long solid burns from the oil boiler. That will allow you to set it up to maximise on efficiency and get flow temp into the optimum condensing range. Oil like to burn long and hard, and they don't modulate like gas does, hence the red flag about short-cycling.

@Tin Soldier Go with a TS, mainly because of the mix of space heating types you have means you don't really have much option as your on oil. Go for 300- 350L and you'll be able to sustain nigh on constant instant high flow ( ~20Lpm ) DHW to the house. Size the boiler ~26kw and that will suffice. I recently did a Grant 21/26 with a 500L TS and that would run the bath and a shower simultaneously with ease, plus enough DHW capacity to get a reasonable flow from the kitchen hot tap too. That install was fortified with a cold mains accumulator ( 300L ) so you do need a good cold mains to get good DHW flow, so bear that in mind. The interconnecting pipework all needs insulating well and all the different flows need a motorised valve to arrest nuisance convection circulation which otherwise leads to a huge amount of heat loss. Put the TS where the waste heat is useful, eg airing cupboard, rather than an utility room if possible, and go for an external oil boiler. You'll save the space and avoid smell / grot when access is required for servicing. ? If you have pv then great as that'll help offset and losses and will contribute to the heating / hot water when generating.

It's got to be a bad joint made terribly to leak tbh. These things are idiot proof very reliable and are buried underground just about everywhere without issue.

The likelihood of the TRV's all being closed automatically is pretty much zilch. I would just put the hallway / lobby rad on bypass and fit TRV's everywhere else. Unless you go around and physically shut them all off to the zero position the issue won't arise, so basically if you can discipline yourself to not turn every radiator in the house off and then go and turn the heating on you'll be absolutely fine. .

@PeterW If it's just the drills dead then you still have the batteries and chargers so why not just buy another naked drill ? ?

Not quite . If you have B&B flooring then you CANNOT drill blindly down through a finished floor and into a beam as you'll knacker it completely if you hit the rebar. ? More reaon not to do it later and get them in first. ?

The trap shown fitted is a shallow bath trap to 40mm pipe . Oh, and the first is a nasty b&q cheapie so yes, ditch it.

Put the waste pipework in or ducts for it FIRST. .

Ok, but at the very least I'd fill that void with foam before levelling. Not just as a preventative measure to stop it bridging the wall / slab junction, but also to stop the levelled from escaping down the gap. Don't underestimate how bad that is for levelling, as literally bags worth can just pour down there whilst it's settling so 'pouring' money down there plus you won't have a level floor. .

Mask up, and hire a big air mover for forced ventilation. Yank the lot down and renew. Good opportunity to add spots if it's a kitchen.