Nickfromwales

I cant work out why the green pump would be a) on b) so hot you can burn yourself on it if the boiler is only chucking out 50-60oC at the mo as shown by the thermometers.

Im trying to work out if the TS could be fed direct by the boiler by connecting it to the sealed and pressurised circuits. That would do away with the F&E tank, and do away with the PHE. The red topped TMV's nearest the two green pumps need to be fully open if poss. Pics as requested please if poss.

Physically mounted low.

Any chance of a pic side on, taken from in front of the boiler facing the red top TMV's and the two green pumps. One high, one low, and one zoomed out.

Try not to burn yourself whilst im away

Curiouser and curiouser. Let me go look at the pics again.

Leave them on max for now. From the pics they are both outgoing, so shouldn't interfere with heating the TS, but if set to max then moot. Strange that the TS isn't drawing at least 50% / 9kw from the boiler to get the TS up to target temp of 65oC. My suspicion is that the PHE isn't man enough. Either that or its partially blocked, but id only know that by removing it and checking against the manufacturers spec etc. Are all the UFH manifolds ( did I hear you say that theres 4 full manifolds doing soave heating ? ) lower than the TS, eg is it upstairs and the manifolds are low down upstairs and low down downstairs ?

Ok, so its doing what its supposed to do. Is it scaling hot, or can you just about keep your hand on it? Its mounted upside down which is a huge no-no for pumps. The pump should have been located elsewhere in the run so it could be horizontal or vertical facing upwards. The reason I ask how hot it is is to ascertain if the bearings are overheating.

The silver pump next to the PHE, can you see if its on 1,2 or 3...if it has numbers on it?

Yup, and one of the things I spoke to Technical about was my concern that the PHE wasn't man enough for the job. A fear that may now be realised. When you say a fair time, how long?

If someone has a stat outside the boiler room that controls the temperature of the cylinder, then that is 100% a cock-stat. Sorry, but thats just a fact.

Good boiler BTW FYI, the drop in output to compensate is referred to as "modulating". A very good feature to have.

What happening is your boiler is chucking out heat at 100mph. Its getting to the PHE and that'll only allow say 75mph of the heat to travel through it, as its a heat exchanger so won't convey 100% of the energy from one side to the other. The boiler fired first at 24kw, but has then had some of the hot water its produced sent back via the return pipe, so the boiler has adjusted to compensate for the heat that it can get RID of, rather than what it can produce. There is no reason that the TS shouldn't get to 65oC, just it'll take a while longer to get there vs if the boiler was circulating direct through the TS instead of going via the PHE.

65oC target, you say 7 more to go from 43oC, which means youve already been AT the Voddy Try 23 lol.

Go have a cup of tea

Yup. Lets prove that we can heat the TS fully and that the boiler will regulate by the boiler temp setting.

Ok, now we move forward. I have to accept the boiler stat will now control the TS, not great but it is what it is. Set the cock-stat ( lets abbreviate with CST ) to max and set the boiler on board temp to 65oC. Then we need to wait for the TS to get up to temp. With us so far?

Ok, not good. It seems the boiler output temperature is governing the TS set temp. BAD. Its not anything to dial 999 for but basically if the boiler internal stat ever fails the TS will overheat until one of the safety measures cuts in. The cylinder stats tells the boiler to provide heat according to output / demand so it can replenish spent energy accordingly. Having the cock-stat ( he's a cock again now sorry ) dictating the TS temp is rough as it gets, and is just horrendous.

Corded then for sure. And only the fein if your minted. Id go DeWalt or Bosch but deffo Quick-change.

We'll worry about room stats and zoning once we can get some clarity on the key elements, like being able to run a bath lol.

Cool. Now, turn the highest cylinder stat ( 1 ) up to max. Does the boiler fire up?

Just try turning them slowly from minimum to maximum and then back to minimum. see if they click on the way back down or lowest setting. Quite important. Oops.

Ok, ill just add, if the ambient isn't low enough to allow the cylinder stats to have 'clicked' off, this won't work....its just popped into my head sorry. When you turned the cylinder stats down, did you hear a click as they switched off? My bad.

The boiler shouldn't fire if the 3 cylinder stats are turned down. If it does, we have a problem. Give it a whirl...

@PeterW ive nowt for the heatmiser....never fitted one.