Nickfromwales

For pennies run a second spare one and sleep easy. Router / multi tool / then chisel for the main cut, and then sink the conduit 10mm and tile over. The Ufh wire will raise you by at least 3-4mm so you'll be another 2-3mm above that by the time you've tiled. . These don't really fail tbh if you've been careful with them during the install. Having a multimeter connected whilst laying the mat / wire is essential. The benchmark book that comes with it gives you the ohms @20oC vs the size ( watts ) of the mat your laying so you don't need to be electronically minded to set it up. Most auto-range so just connect the multimeter black wire to the blue wire of the cold tail of the mat, and red to the brown tail, and select ohms. You just keep checking that as you lay the mat. It'll change as your tiling due to the temp shift, but not much. Take ( record ) a reading when you take the mat out of the box, take it again at the halfway point, and again at the end of laying the mat. You need to write these in the back of the book to comply with the warranty. Do these again during laying the tiles, as that's when your most likely to damage the wire as you'll be using tile trowels etc. Once the mat is down, go around the areas you've no mat and bulk them up with a self leveller. Leave that go off, about 4 hours for a good one. Then, optional, use a rubber edged grout float to smother a bedding coat of flexible tile adhesive over the wire / mat to bring the adhesive just shy of the top of the wire / mat to bulk the whole floor area up prior to tiling. Leave that go off and then the floor will be much easier to lay. Having to bulk out as your laying means more mixing and longer open times for the adhesive. Prepping the floor before you lay the tiles is the far easier option IMO and makes the job a breeze. "Less stressed is best" .

Cracking paint, but not the cheapest. I use leyland Trade High opacity for the obliteration, but admittedly that's not via a pump / sprayer.

All quite avoidable with FFD's ( flame failure devices ). Most modern appliances can be purchased with FFD's, they're the little metal stub that pokes up alongside the igniter that tells the gas valve that there is a flame ( heat ) present. The second the flame extinguishes the FFD cools down and you hear a click where the gas is shut off aoutomatically, irrespective of the position is the gas control knob. Basically if the gas control is turned to on, say to boil a pan of water for veg, and the pan boils over and quenches the flame, gas still comes out. The second heat loss is detected, around 6-8 seconds for it to cool sufficiently, the gas flow is arrested. Moral of the storey : don't go hacking out all your gas burning appliances just ensure they have FFD's. .

So.........not content with the lunacy of self-building you now want to attach a big sail to your gas bottles Too damn right. The alternative is you connect it and jump in bed hoping it's ok . CO1 detectors detect products of combustion eg they don't tell you there's a gas leak, but the light switch will Gas = due diligence. . You'll need the bottles there when the GSR'd plumber arrives, so it can be pressurised and tested. Nowt can be done if the bottles aren't there.

Oh, and you need to work out what your going to fit first of course

You need to ask SA. Maybe @AndyT can advise. Ping him a PM.

Oh, and as your pushing on with this project, consider the lead times with the sunamp . May be game over if they can't get them to you quickly enough.

Ah sorry. Just adjusted my thinking from the current couple of installs I'm speccing ( as their SA units are being used half and half, heating / hot water ). A low loss header will suffice here I think. No stored pressurised hot water volume exceeding 15litres in any one device and no need for annual inspections. ASHP > SA via a 2-port zone valve. ASHP > LLH via a 2-port zone valve. LLH > UFH / space heating. You can simply accept some short cycling, not much, with the LLH accepting it's a cheaper and easier solution, or fit another SA unit as half buffer / half DHW uplift. Then you can reduce the size of the DHW SA units. They're an elegant solution, and save annual inspections, so in 10 years you'll be paid up on the heating buffer unit, will have saved energy producing DHW, won't need any complex plumbing or controls, and won't have any major standing losses, so it's down to paying a bit more up front, with a view to some payback from the reduced associated ongoing costs.

Tee off and run 32mm to an outhouse if possible. Cap it off and see how you cope with any pressure / flow fluctuations. If it's problematic then just connect an accumulator to the end of the 32mm. Fwiw I'd keep all of the buried stuff 32mm as you'll need all the flow you can get when both dwellings are consuming water at the same time. . Pennies difference.

No need for the buffer with the SA as the flow rate through the heat exchanger is more than sufficient to not cause issues for the pump ( eg it's flowing through an open circuit ) as it's not driving the pump into a blending valve like it would if it were an UFH manifold. The issue arises when you could be pumping to a partially or fully closed valve, but apart from a zone valve that issue doesn't exist with this ( ASHP > SA ) configuration. The beauty is that these really can be 'single box' solutions. I'm eagerly awaiting my training on these which I'm hoping will be soon after the 3rd gen stuff is to market.

The best part was when the mirror for that vanity was found with two cast iron fireplaces on top of the box . Not cheap getting that remade.

"The customer is always right". I don't go to design people's houses for them, I got do what I'm asked, and to do it well. As you say, technically, it was a nightmare, but as far as execution went, 'twas splederific. . And yes, f'kin orrible .

Not a groove jetted in These were 600x600mm porcelain. The lady of the house had a 'vision' of black and white, so black and white it went. Porcelanosa sold the dream, then handed me a nightmare. The black and white chequers are 1200x1200mm and each is made up of a full tile of each colour plus 4 halves. If you jet the tiles in half then bring two together then you get a 599x599 quare as the jet takes roughly 1mm of material out during the 'cut'. Problem is you then have no grout gap between the black and white triangles where the black meets white. Solution is to ask the water jet guru to oscillate the jet side to side as it's cutting. Then you can choose 1.5-2mm off each cut which then gives you 3-4mm for grout. This was an open plan bedroom. A curved wall in the corner where you walked into the shower and poop area, and this vanity on one wall of the bedroom, just off. Oh oh and just to piss me right off, there was a mix of black and white grout. Try that for fast access to the loony bin .

I give the tiles with tile pencil lines drawn on them where necessary and a handful of beer tokens and he works the magic. I don't ask how, just how much. I'm a bathroom fitter, he's a CNC machinist in charge of nearly a £1m worth of huge water jet. He even oscillated the jet to give me a replaceted 3mm grout line when two triangles came back together to make a full tile. The dogs bollocks. Beer applied = Tiles cut. Tres bien. PS nowt wrong with back of a fag packet......haven't lost a patient yet. I don't own a scientific calculator btw .

This is FUNDAMENTALLY important!!! Do not think that as this is a 'van it's any less of a risk to life. The botttles being chained so they can't fall over is part of gas safe criteria. Don't ever even think about recommissioning a gas burning appliance without doing so. A gas leak ( drop / tightness ) test and thorough inspection of the flue and how it's connected to the boiler must be carried out. Dont mess with gas, or anything that either produces CO1 or can blow up !

Walking on your hands, obviously ! You haven't got a huge house, so putting ufh pipes in the slab is going to be cheaper than shoplifting. An ASHP can cool the slab in summer, and heat large convector radiators / skirting heaters in the winter if you really would like to 'jazz this up'. The options are as deep as your purse and as wide as your imagination. If you indeed have a particular medical niggle then go for what works for you, but would still suffice if the house is ever marketed. Good news is PV would drive most of your cooling and DHW

Firstly, ref the G3 annual inspection. Ive yet to receive the 'bumf' from the production model 3rdGen SA units as of yet, so cannot comment on the ongoing / routine maintenance of them, but from my PoV its minimal, and maybe even just a DIY checklist / record will suffice. @AndyT ? 3 couples aka 6 guests having 'adequate ( 10 mins @ 38oC ) showers' would need a fully charged 5kw SAPV for each couple. I know from direct experience that the SAPV when fully recharged will give 40+oC DHW flow for at least 26 minutes before dropping off to unusable heat levels, which is why Im quoting the SAPV, just fort scale. Thats on an estimated flow of around 9/10 litres per minute. So 2 x 10 minute showers at 10LPM ( so an instantaneous delivery of 200L of bathing temp, or higher, water ) needs roughly 5kw of SA capacity. In reality it'll probably be less, but you should always allow headroom. So, with that capacity in mind, you'll actually need the 3rdGen Dual port SA units, and for failsafe id recommend having the units with electrical immersions in them ( so if the ASHP ever fails you can still heat hot water ). Those dual port units take non-potable ASHP water in one 'side' and discharge potable DHW via the second of the dual ports, so the same unit hydraulically separates the two bodies of water, but they're 'connected' thermally. Eg the input can be heating the cells whilst the other 'side' is discharging and if say 2kw is being drawn and 3kw is being inputted then the cells will recharge at the same time as they discharge heat. For say a 9kw unit, the whole 9kw can be recharged by one pair of ports, and the whole 9kw can then be consumed by the second ports ( so a dual port SA isnt looked upon to be 4.5kw to one and 4.5kw to the other if that makes sense? ). Another benefit of this is the connections are 22mm, so an electrically heated SA DP can be used solely for DHW with cold mains going into one side of each port ( 2 x 22mm inlets ) and then be paralleled through the SA to give a combined ouput of the equivalent of a 44mm pipe flow rate. Therefore its safe to say these can be configured to deliver masses of instant DHW with flow rates of 30 - 40 litres per min achieved with ease ( so 3 good showers running simultaneously with ease plus a bit of room to draw off for a kitchen sink tap / other at the same time too ). That would obviously be dependant on the cold mains being sufficient to deliver such high flow rates, but easily achieved with a correctly sized cold mains accumulator. All this can also easily be achieved by a large HP UVC just then you have the annual servicing and inspections, which is a reasonably high outgoing over the life of the UVC ( as a good stainless steel UVC should outlive you ). The 9kw sunamp units are about the size of a slimline dishwasher so will fit under a kitchen / utility worktop too. An equivalent UVC would stand about 1600 - 1800mm heigh, and be about 600mm wide.

Tell the tenant to enjoy life, and to worry about things when they break, not if theyll break.

Just blows my mind how they even think of this stuff. Where would we be without clever sods eh? Now wheres my blow lamp?

@Onoff Pretty much yes to everything above. Those steel brackets laying flat, they have soft edges do they ? If not, get something between them and the UFH pipes for Justin.

Wikipedia quote : " Chilblains can be reduced by keeping the feet and hands warm in cold weather, and avoiding extreme temperature change " Am I missing something ?

Oops. Just realised we should chat about this here as we're veering off topic !

Can I ask why you don't want UFH ?