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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. 50mm thick screeds make for horrible UFH emitters imo. You need to have very accurate ( short hysteresis ) room thermostats and NOT use a regular TMV on the UFH manifold to achieve a smooth heating curve from such emitters. They ( typically ) heat up too quick, cool down too quick, and incorrect / unsuitable controls allow for uncomfortable overshoot / undershoot seeing the slab go from hot to cool, rather than staying 'warm'. This can be of benefit if your not in all day, eg working family / kids in school etc, but for anything else id not go less than 75 - 80mm of screed. If building to passive / near passive standards then these problems become more apparent, especially the overshoot. With thinner screeds and the need to better regulate flow, a buffer tank is essential.
  2. You can walk on most a few days after. 4 weeks is just utter nonsense. Anywhere between 1mm a day and 2mm a day is realistic for a slab to completely 'dry out', but its often not a requirement that it dries out before works commence eg you could be stud walling a couple of weeks later or maybe even less. You aren't slabbing, your screeding, so you need to look at that specifically. First question is how much Kingspan over the B&B and what is the depth you have left for screed?
  3. Outside lighting and PIR sensors need to be considered, also some remote master switches for turning lights on and keeping them on eg no disco effect as you wander around outside. After cat5/6 to all the smart TVs and PCs etc Wifi is what I'm mostly focussed on. I bought a used gigabit switch after a nudge from @PeterW and now need wifi repeaters to compliment the switch and flood the house with wifi. One at the front downstairs, and one at the rear on the first floor so the garden / patio gets good signal there. In fairness to the VM router, which is in the dining room at the front of the house, if I line up with the living room window I can get a useable signal, but off to one side of that, zilch.
  4. Hitachi Koki is on my nail guns. On the label as above. Never asked why before, but now I know. . Another brain cell soaked up for no reason. Down to only 3 left now. . ??
  5. Iirc, boiler plus has kicked in in England, not yet enforced in Wales, so FGHR will be one of the ways to achieve the new higher scores. There are other ways of attaining such criteria, but I think FGHR would be where my money was.
  6. The hot return would be plumbed to the very last point that the hot pipe becomes impractical / very difficult to get to. I was on the phone to my mate last night and he's now an Atag accredited installer. Hes says they're pricey but very good. He's fitting them for customers who want the flue gas heat recovery.
  7. All I can say is "penis". Free hot water all summer for the next 20+ years ? Yes, that would be utter madness. What height do you have up there? A std vertical UVC would be a lot cheaper as it gets a bit pricey when horizontal. If you have a gable you can get brackets made and sit it on those so the ceilings aren't taking any weight.
  8. Patch is not a word you want to use with any frequency when applying a waterproof membrane
  9. Not at all, of course fit the flashing ! CT1 will sort any suspect areas out after the final install is complete. A bit of reinforcement in the obvious ares where / if necessary.
  10. Which is why CT1 was invented
  11. I'll post in a bit re the hot return, but you don't necessarily have to redo all the runs, there is a middle ground If you have PV then a hot water cylinder is a no-brainer. Attics no problem. You can get a horizontal. This house had 4kwp PV.
  12. Who's telling you that? Do you already have PV?
  13. One layer on front, don't do a sandwich.
  14. No way to cook the motor, it would shut off if I'd didn't like what it was doing. More consistent drilling speed, better ( seemingly ) battery life, and the single battery sds was lighter than the 36v but I'd say not any less powerful. I don't know if the 2x18v ( aka 36v ) drill was supposed to be a big boys drill, but I very much do NOT rate it. Where my BL one would just stop, the 36v has now developed a bit of slack in the gearbox and now needs overhauling to stop it crunching, like it's missing a tooth on a gear. BL also never need the brushes or armature replacing so your only ever into triggers then too. '''Tis the future my man. My kit will now be upgraded bit by bit to BL whilst my brushed stuff is still working, serviceable and saleable. May well start with that BL 2x 5ah kit.
  15. I'd go brushless and add a battery. I sold my single battery, brushless, drop-handled SDS 18v when a brushed 36v ( 2x18v battery ) one was offered to me nearly new, and regret it deeply. The brushless performance was measurably better, even with one less battery.
  16. Game, set and match .
  17. Just bring it across the face of everything so all the pipework is behind it, otherwise your pipework will be cutting through it a few times. 04th June today, so 6 months + 2 week contingent to be done by ~ December. Let's get cracking!
  18. Alpha iirc we're one of the earliest manufacturers who promoted flue heat recovery. Firstly they were a sit-on-top box but now are integrated. It's all still quite new, so I'm waiting for a bit of feedback before heading down that route TBH.
  19. I feel an abuse of power coming on. .
  20. 6mm for a door like that is not a good idea. 8mm minimum afaic. The sheds sell framed side panels as thin as 4mm and 6mm, but that is THIN. Too thin for a swung door IMO. Playing 8 million cube pick-up with bare feet won't be good.
  21. He'll be along in his own good time. . In the meantime, it looks like we need a distraction........
  22. Ok, so I like a bit of entertainment.....sue me
  23. Been done plenty of times, with the likes of Merlyn and Roman. Hinged panels and no mechanical ( anti-gravity ) contact with the floor. Agreed, if you buy one of the better ones but then fix it to thin air it won't stay there for long.
  24. I'd keep your head down for the next 15 mins It all begins here.....
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