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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. How much PV ?
  2. Or a swept / long radius bend better again .
  3. I run a recycling centre for unwanted ales. Just doing my bit for the community
  4. KISS. Touch the rad. Can you keep your hand on it without it being uncomfortable. Turn your hand over and do the same with the sensitive part of your skin on your wrist / forearm. Thats what a child would feel. Adjust accordingly. Pub.
  5. Down to 50p a metre, so how much cheaper do you want than that?
  6. @epsilonGreedy Start a new thread for the boiler / heating / DHW and that'll keep the this one focussed on the electricals
  7. It sounded like resistance hence my comment about the immediate pipework from the WC. Good that you found that sooner than later
  8. Keep the best til last.....Pedigree of course. Oh and you probably kinked that pipe at the end to get a round some original timber work or such other obstruction?
  9. Hi, and welcome. Never too late to hop on board mate, more the merrier . All sounds "within acceptable tolerances", but if ever just driving the UFH with the rads off ( upstairs at temp ) then the boiler will struggle to maintain a low enough output to match the heat required by the UFH when that's idling too. A buffer tank would sort that and keep the boiler in the premium condensing range too. Yes it'll modulate, but not enough most likely, so will short-cycle a good bit when the house is up to, or nearly at the comfort temp. If having a WBS, I think I'd have gone for a thermal store and a boiler, but you sound like you've purchased the above already ?
  10. I'm not GSR'd so I don't have the latest copies of the relevant documents, or any amendments thereof. A gas pipe can be surface mounted externally, exposed, but I'm not sure of current legislation in Engerland wrt burying it which may be different to Wales, so pointless me ringing my guy as the info may not be relevant to you. Time to get on't phone lad.
  11. As BCO isn't involved after the gas meter, its all on the GSR'd fitters head. If they dont see depth and integrity of any aspect of the gas run, then they really should be refusing to connect gas to an already installed pipe. Its not like chucking an MDPE gas main in for the gas board, where they really dont care that much if they get to see it all or not, this is all one guys responsibility. Id have thought they'd be happy to witness the duct being backfilled with the pipe in it, if theyre invited to cap it and pressure ( drop / tightness ) test it as a purposeful visit, but it would be down to the GSR'd fitter tbh. Its them you need to ask not us.
  12. May as well leave the stub wall TBH as a pillar will be wider, plus a pillar may need a footing if it's not a good thickness, reinforced, slab. That way you can fly the new pad over the stub and into the adjacent wall. Removng that stub may feck that wall right up if it's toothed in from one wall to the other too, thus knackering it up completely from a load bearing PoV.
  13. Cheers for the pics. I recon your well into pillar territory there. You need the old '45 degree downward' rule applied where the piece of wall under the existing lintel ( opening not doorway one ) will want to push outward and splay that little stub of wall as it'll then have two lots of downward pressure at that one point. You may even be asked to expose the founds to check that stub wall ( to the left of the existing opening ) is sat on a true foundation. A house that size may just be a thick reinforced concrete raft.
  14. ?. Poor woman. Remember......this is a thread about blogs .
  15. Unless it's a video of depth, and then the back filling too, then no dice. Because this is post gas meter it's not down to the BCO, it's down to the fitter that signs the gas certificate. It's not like burying the gas main.
  16. The grey area is the depth and integrity of the ducting. Any GSR'd fitter who values his freedom will refuse to connect to a pipe he / she hasn't seen being laid. If they we're happy, id not want them within a mile of the job.
  17. How far from the edge of the doorway between the DR and the LR will the padstone be? BCO may ask for a pillar there. Looking a bit tight to have the doorway lintel and the new pad so close on a single skin. Any chance of a pic looking from the DR into the LR with dimensions ? You'll need to expose the existing lintel to be 100%.
  18. I said WAS Then it grew arms and legs and became too scary to tame. All jokes aside, if someone with zero knowledge of squat wants to do a bathroom from scratch, @Onoff's thread is a step by step guide to do it right.
  19. +1, I should have said I always go for 150mm as 100mm just looks inadequate to me. And steel is pennies.
  20. Deffo. SE will specify with the steel drawing. Full detail will be required, buy your only looking at a pre-stressed concrete lintel, 6"x4" around 300-400mm long and the steel needs to be a min of 100mm bearing on the pad.
  21. In for a penny........??
  22. I was going to rename it the bog mini-blog TBH.
  23. It looks ( end section ) identical to what I routinely use. Its cheap enough to make me look closely at it that's for sure. It'll only ever see <2.0bar in normal service so how bad can it actually be ?
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