Nickfromwales

Fitted a good few Panasonics, and I just bolt them down to the concrete and hard plumb with copper. As above, you’ve got to stick your head in front of it to prove it’s running, but the caveat is that you design it to be relaxed, not running flat out. Zero vibration or notable running sounds / nuisance. Very impressed with them for the money, and they do cooling out of the box Tres bien!

Amen reverend

Rubi’s own discs are a wise investment. Speak to your local tile shop staff for types and direct recommendations.

In your own words, “look harder”

MVHR has centralised filtration at the unit. Cleaning or replacing the filters can be done faster than making a cup of tea from scratch. Multiple units in different locations adds to this ‘problem’, as anything that air flows through will attract dust that needs removing, so that is at every trickle vent, plus the fan filters, worse if the fan is in an attic space. MVHR is the better solution, afaic, because of the ease of (self) maintenance and the heat recovery.

Yup. Same as the iBox. 👍👍. Happy days.

Are you saying this was poured down the drain as a way to clean up at the end of the day and dispose of the excess goop? If so......................what a cock.

Are you able to use AeroBarier? just needs the house pretty empty and a lot of covering up furniture, and robust masking off all floors and flat surfaces. Got a masonry refurb down to sub 0.2 ACH before xmas!!!

If these are like the Grohe iBox, then hot is linked to top outlet, and cold is linked to the lower outlet, by the temporary blank facia. This gets removed and disposed of when you fit the actual face plate, after tiling. They set it up this way so you can purge the hot and cold pipework at that stage, to clear debris. If the hot and cold are pressurised atm, have you checked the outlets aren’t now also pressurised?

Resin some bolts in or use Rawl/Hilti bolts, and she’s there for life. Leave threads exposed which are long enough to reach the fitting, and chop off to length as required. Can be fortified by removing the EPS and replacing it compacfoam 400, to the same depth as the EPS or a bit more if that prevents cutting it excessively, and bolt through that and into the concrete to create a solid CF > timber wallplate.

1/2” blank plugs in both outlets, then leave on for a morning on one, the afternoon on the other.

External insulation will offer zilch in terms of airtightness, if you have a cavity.

Spare bucket full of water is how you clean the whisk. 30 seconds spin each way, like new. Use standard set and you’ll have 2 hours of open time to toddle along with. 🤝

Yup. No grotty silicone to scrub the pee from Beer reduces accuracy…….

Vanity was an Italian import, but imo the hung pans look very exclusive. Plenty of shapes and sizes to choose from.

They usually do a design / supply / commission package for self builders who want to DIY, so just ask for a rudimentary layout / design; all you need is the number of ducts and location of terminals, but it’s pretty simple to work out. If you have any long runs to bedrooms, double up on the duct to quieten the airflow as much as possible.

I know CVC are crazy busy atm. Just swap from 92mm round to ‘oval’ (rectangular) duct to pass the steel and then covert back to round. Done it plenty of times. Some examples of my MVHR installs… Hope these examples help. 👍

Current 3 projects (2 x MBC PH TF & 1 x stick built PH) have needed no further protection; mixes of brick / render / cedar / composite / brick slips and more. I think it would only jump if it’s a 3 story dwelling. I’m a fan of keeping the cavities clear, so intumescent strips work well here. A few ££ more but tbh this is not somewhere where you should have any kind of compromise.

Search back through @Jeremy Harris earlier stuff, as he goes into huge detail from his borehole install and downstream filtration and treatment etc.

Looks like whoever made that cable off nicked the black sleeve, hence the look of degradation. Lighting won’t have anywhere near enough current drawn to it to toast those cables tbh, so if you cut them back and maybe make off into a choc box with Wagos, you could then drop to a single 0.75mm 3-core flex so only 1 cable per light to make off (and flex is far more forgiving and easier to terminate).

@jimseng https://tradeaccesspanels.co.uk/product/fire-rated-plasterboard-access-panels/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17336436168&gbraid=0AAAAADqcc2NvcVDH3OPU6cTaBGL9O6YYE&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk_bPBhDXARIsACiq8R3L6SPOQXz1gdePeNbesc0EaPv1Q_Guurb7OuhtdCA38PNVFVlX5ugaAjOaEALw_wcB

The cavity must remain open, but only open to atmosphere.

I sorted the typo, sorry, so now you look loopy. Lol.

At that price, two!!

@crispy_wafer ping me a PM if you want to speak about how to resolve, if you get stuck. SE is the next person, but you defo cannot sit it on the top layer as it’s a “dynamic” load.