Nickfromwales

Dunno..... I put the Bat-sign up but nowt yet. Probably shouldn't have used a solar powered one ?

It must have been love lol. Happy days. When you building the second one?

No idea.......and don't call me Shirley

He's alive! Yay !! Thats looking really smart, you must be chuffed. Paying guests using it now ?

I have a 2007 3.0ah and its still going. Even the guys in CNS cannot believe it. Its brother snuffed it years ago.

I'm still struggling to find anything that backs that timeframe up tbh. Google doesn't exactly offer anything up on a cheeky scan. Some professionals seem to think it will last much longer than 5 years.

Or play one of the default tunes but yes it does make a noise when the battery is charged but the single beep option often goes unnoticed if your 'at it'.

I suppose it’s too late to say use stainless and get it TIG welded and buffed.

External boilers ( combi / system ) have a manufacturer required frost stat. At the set temp the boiler will fire and the heat from the exchanger will keep hot / cold etc from freezing. That assumes the pipe work has been insulated accordingly of course. In adverse installs an electric driven ‘heat tape’ should be laid with any susceptible pipe work to give an offset heat input, ( the colder it gets the higher the output, and vice versa ). In cold weather any system should be designed to stave off frost attack. It’s only in power fail that you cannot mitigate against such a risk and then have to rely solely on antifreeze measures in the liquids.

That’s a tidy price for a 4-branch. Buy it and move on Chop chop. ?

Ive looked into this for my house and was in a volley with an EB member before numbnuts pulled the plug. Can’t get that back now as it was by PM I looked into 100 and 150mm electromechanical dampers to stave off free airflow from room to atmosphere and did find a LOT of hideously expensive ( over-priced ) units. ‘We’ did find a cheaper robust unit but the cack hit the fan and I didn’t think to copy my stuff before being unceremoniously locked out. Something for anyone without mvhr or indeed with an extracting cooker hood, especially with 150-200mm ducting !

Au contraire. The Makita is a clever beast. If you’ve been working the battery hard and it’s hot the charger will refuse to charge it when first inserted into the charger. The fan will blow through the battery pack ( it has a dedicated airway designed to effectively cool the cells inside ) and when the onboard thermistor says it’s cooled down the charger will start to charge the battery. The fan will then run to keep the batteries cool whilst being fast charged. As I’m ‘in the trade’ I need my batteries chop-chop and favour the design. When one of my batteries dies it gets full honours and quite deserved too. I then list it on eBay and someone gives me £10 plus p&p for it!

Looks great. Keep going, and please keep updating

Not really, as there are far more moving / electromechanical components in a combi.

It means take the battery out and use it now

Hi and welcome. We enjoy it when 'trades' join and contribute, but please keep to the T&C's. Anyhoo, tell us more about the wonderful world of trusses and how you 'slot in'. Are you building, or have built your own home?

Yup. Its called money for old rope.

I bet none of them were designed with a true scrutinising eye, and few are maintained accordingly. Also, the shear size of the maintenance should be accounted for in the very nature of them being commercial properties, eg the £X + 40% should be factored in as running costs / consumables and would have been calculated and 'factored in'. If they've ended up so wonky as to be +40% then someone got it all wrong Lets compare apples with apples, and theres enough real life data on this forum for you to see that you need not worry about going +40% at all, unless you choose not to heed and observe the disciplines adopted and religiously followed by the many who have self built here ( and have been kind enough to share the results ( warts n all )). Plus your building a single residential dwelling under your own supervision so are in charge of your own destiny there

A HP will tick all those boxes, but you really need to adopt a ‘fabric first’ approach if you want to steer away from fossil fuel. High fabric & ventilation heat losses will not lend itself to low grade space heating so that may well end your chance of having UFH tbh. If you need X amount of W/ m2 and it exceeds what UFH can safely / economically provide then your back to radiators both up AND downstairs. Cooking on gas is still feasible with LPG bottled gas, in case that’s a concern / requirement. Sorry that I haven’t followed much of your other content, but how far along are you ?

The key is to build as low energy as possible and to go for all low temp emitters where possible. Rads, unless seriously oversized, will make an ASHP uneconomical to run. Try and get low grade space heating and then an ASHP makes much better long term sense. Avoid gas and oil where practicable, and get PV into the equation as the cherry on the cake. Possible ratio of 1kW inputted ( some from PV ) per 3kW produced ( via the HP ) makes the best sense. Having a chunky slab as a ‘storage heater’ will allow you to store in the day and emit during the night eg where you need to bridge the gaps where there is no solar gain / reduced outside temps. TS’s are notorious for excessive heat loss ( latent ) so avoid wherever possible.

Pan connector bores are around that size so I guess it would be permissible. Not entirely sure I’d ever have faith in King Kong’s thumb not getting stuck through I will have a good read of that though, cheers.

Yup. @TerryE‘s Willis / SA solution is indeed deliciously simple and crazy cost effective. Without PV he went to the Willis but beefing up the SA heat store with a PV driven setup would be equally simple and effective.

Only when its a vent and will not ever see 'other service' afaik.

With each appliance a Benchmark certificate is provided. Its usually the last two pages of the Installation Instructions. Link

Its just down to whether your friend has maintained his GS status. If not then the guy signing it off is on thin ice tbh. Seriously, the 'good old days' are gone, because of the number of incidents casing damage or death. The cert on the rental is easy, GSR fitter needs to do it, and you also should check that they've got fires and cookers on their card as some dont but still work on fires and cookers regardless. They'll go straight to jail if they haven't. I know of a local town where this was cracked down on, and at least 1 guy went to jail for an incorrectly fitted flue on a job he'd signed off for someone else. It hadn't been fitted properly and was found to be letting carbon monoxide escape into the bedroom. That guy was a long established and reputable fitter. That is why he got jail, as he should have known not to do it. The rest that got pulled were done by the taxman for fitting for cash, with the commissioning guys being told to volunteer the information about who fitted them or lose their GSR, or they would have to pay the taxable value of the work they didn't undertake. The warranty resides with the end owner of the boiler, and where or how it was bought should have no impact. It wasnt, and he got away with doing that for years.