Nickfromwales

Take pics for what came from where. The main flush assembly quarter turns like changing a lightbulb.

No need for decoupling then IMO as the last floor I did over PJ at 600c was around 35m2. That was 22mm P5 ( D4 glued and screwed x5 per joist run, 2" No.10 screws ), 6mm ply glued and screwed at 120mm centres ( that needs to be observed religiously ), tile adhesive and 600x600 porcelain on top. Not a squeak and it also had wet UFH in spreader plates so goes through heat / cool cycles too. I know the dicks who fitted the joists too, so I doubt any strong backs went in or the joists were fitted properly either.

What's the m2?

Its 2018 mate. Where have you been? My 18v makita grinder with a diamond blade vs you huffing and puffing as you make squiggly lines ? Mine is serrated and flew through the 900mm x 450mm porcelain im currently battling with. Cut the letterbox out for the shower valve in under 2 minutes. Zoom Zoom.

Grinder across the bridge and then two wet cuts in.

Were actually taking shape now. "Praise the FU@@ing Lord".

Chain...... Yank......

Put it on and give it 5 mins to go tacky. Use a dry 4" roller to 'squeegee' the excess tanking out or it'll take ages to dry.

Tile adhesive should be after everything is fully tanked. Bed the blue flaps into more tanking.

Over 22mm P5 i use 6mm at 400c and 9mm over 600c. I've never laid a thicker ply that that other than to purposefully raise the floor. I put the glue down for ply over Egger with a vinyl floor layer trowel so the PVA has a 2-3mm notch. If there's movement in the Egger your screwed anyway as the tiles will still give. If the Egger has been gas nailed down they're usually 3 to a joist. I always fix 5 10x2" per joist so would recommend screwing next to every nail and ensuring there's 5 fixing to a joist.

Go grab the squelch mat from under the redundant hot tub. .

I don't ever use the backer board, as in not once in over 20 years of bathroom fitting. The Egger is a stable interlocking floor already glued and screwed / nailed so why backer board is even in the equation is a mystery to me. If it were over crappy old floorboards then I'd half understand it, but not a candidate here afaic. Sticking a rigid board down on top of a gun adhesive is nuts. There will be loads of area where there is no contact between the board and the deck so a bad idea IMO. Hardie don't as per this vid Why not just glue and screw plywood down like I always do? Not lost a patient yet ?

Why are you asking about priming with something that doesn't say primer on the tub Sensible questions from now on please ! :-/ No need to worry about expansion joints / grout lines at the floor / wall junction. The tanking strip will take care of that for you Just run a bead of CT1 around to fill any major gaps before tanking and applying the strip.

+1 Slapping more over anywhere that looks shy isn't a problem, but you want to first do the walls where the adhesive filled the gaps which tbh you can get on with now. The wetfloor area needs tanking through the day whilst you arse around elsewhere and then tiling the following day. As your on a slab, it'll absorb any water from scrapes or dings, so get the tiles all cit, honed and dry laid, number them up, and get a chuffing mix on boyo. "It is time, my young crappprentice".

Some just price loads of work and wait 'until one bites'. I hope you didn't ask the other guy for the £2 change ??

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Looking good TBH. As these are ceramic you may need to paint the upper part of the cuts as the grout wont stay flush or proud after sponging back. You don't want to see the terracotta. Car spray paint, and it'll cover the bits of breakout too if you mask up well enough. Most instances don't see two cut edges butted up with a groutline so deffo worth considering IMO. "we've come this far !"

Good lad

@Triassic I think your out numbered mate

Amen, brother Nod. The last time I had a spread do a single set over PVA I had them come back and sand it back. Looked shit. Two sets over PVA or get back in your van. I use a spread with arms like a lobster. You can hear the sound off the blade when the final 'rub' is being done. Nothing better. Sheet 'o glass.

I also disagree, taped and filled PB is office style on a good day. You try sanding back on a PB wall and you hit paper. You knock a PB wall and you hit paper. You BREATHE next to a PB wall and..... With skim you get a layer which is infinitely harder wearing, can be filled and sanding without instantly lifting fibres, and can absorb all the undulations that boarding, taping and filling simply cannot ever do. Ive been around both long enough to give an informative perspective. Plaster if you want a home, tape if it's an office. When the sun hits a taped wall you can even spot where the studs are.

If I were you I'd go for timber frame . Itll be the first house built for free .

? Cats away mate.

And there lays the problem . BCO should have asked for your detailed proposal from the designer BEFORE you laid a single brick. I kinda knew this was a horse > cart situation but TBH I didn't want to say. Take heed of @PeterW'S comments as he's above and beyond in his replies here. You can take a horse to water, but sometimes it needs kicking, thrice, in the bollocks before any water gets consumed. Yes, the 4m wobbly sail at the top will need lateral ties to the superstructure, I wouldn't be able to sleep if it was my house and it was not suitably tied. Sometimes I get unsympathetic. Usually coupled with a ? day, but often always fortified by folk asking questions that they should already have been provided answers to, inclusive of the cost of their build package and process thereof. This forum fills some serious gaps in what 'should' be a fluid process between client and building supplier / contractor. Not just in this instance, so @Ed_MK please excuse me for generalising here, but thank F@@@ places like this exist. Fwiw, I'm learning too. "Every day is a school day".

Forget about how it cuts, what sound does it make ? ?? Much better.