Nickfromwales

The new team are providing a heck of a lot more for £12k ?! What doors and windows? 1G?

Current MBC PH TF project is all Norrsken, and they are all going to be completely off the slab and atop the EPS with 20mm of (Compacfoam) CF200 set in situ to take the loads (biggest slider is <4m iirc). Same on last few with raft founds (Rational and Velfac) with zero issues tbh. I just asked the installers to go all-in on the side and head brackets, and made sure the CF or Bosig is set down very robustly. Threshold can be strapped too if needed, but by the time these are set down onto foam and CT1/other, the sheer weight stops these things from moving about at all.

Are you making the house airtight, throughout? Need to understand where exactly you intend to stop and start any membranes. If you're going belt & braces, then the ducts should lay on the plasterboard between joists, packed with insulation, with more insulation on top open to the cold attic. Any membrane should be underneath the joists, as with all the cables etc above it'll be a pig to detail. Going to need some attention to details here, and a lot of time and patience. Is this part of a major refurb?

Only ever done DHW in 28mm, but haven't used a cylinder smaller than 300L for a good few years.

RIP.

Drill a deeper hole and set some threaded 4mm or 5mm threaded bar in with resin. Then a nut and washer to lock it there forever. I'd use stainless, but do not over-tighten it.

You just need a 40mm one under the sink, after the trap. The gurgling is worse when you use a 'combination' aka 'appliance' trap, with the short spigot to push the appliance discharge hose on to. The issue is, these connect before the trapped water and are therefore glugging away directly under the plughole and entirely audible to the room. Combat this by installing dedicated bottle or P traps for the 1 or 1.5 bowl(s), and additional dedicated washing machine upstand type traps for the appliances. The tiny bit of noise stays in the under-sink cupboards then.

If you’re bringing the front door further out then you’re opening up the heated envelope, so it’ll all need to be insulated, floors and walls, to comply with regs. If you leave the door where it is and make a cold porch then next to nothing to worry about. Re lintel, depends if this is notifiable work and they want a footing or not.

No AAV’s needed for ground floor fixtures if the invert is less than 1300mm. The AAV’s relieve vacuum caused by flush water dropping at speed, but at such short drops this doesn’t become an issue at all. Saves annoying / ugly boxing in and the need for access to the 110mm AAV’s. Only 1x SVP needed, and you can reduce this to 3” and run it externally, like a faux rainwater down-pipe, if you don’t want to breach the roof at all. Defo no need for multiple SVP’s!

Never give up. “All pipes located in areas where subsequent inspection will be difficult or impracticable should be pressure tested before being concealed.” So it is covering every base, and open to interpretation, as always. Whenever bcos have been on site they’ve only ever cared about fittings being accessible (as in not buried in concrete / screed etc), and never about pipe. I challenge, show sensible management of risks, they say carry on. Look at the amount of UFH pipe in slabs and zero issues there. I only really insulate (9mm wall) when in slab to protect the pipes during the construction phase, leaving the insulation above ground as a sacrificial cover.

Dangerous territory sometimes, plus "he who pays the piper calls the tune", and that's exactly how it should be if you are competent to dictate (but also are someone who will take ownership of pushing for a bad choice and then having to pay to correct later without blaming anyone........dealing with this currently and it's a major piss-you-off)

Not needed as it refers largely, if not entirely, to fittings. No fittings = common sense can prevail. Probably spent more time typing this than installing 2 pairs of both solutions though, lol. Self-building at it's best (worst?), eg set fire to £500 worth of time solving a £300 problem. Then multiply!!

If they're not going through stupidly acute bends then yes, but you'd probably have to pull both out and feed both back in again unless its a big duct. They'll not need changing out in our lifetimes.......

It's a bit like PVA, and the floors, or any other flat surfaces stay very tacky for a few days. The screed was like the sticky carpets in a rough pub for days, but I was pleasantly surprised at how there was no 'overspray' on the vertical surfaces at all.

That's more or less cosmetics tbf, if considering chasing a burst pipe. Most issues are with failed joints. 99.9% of failures there are installer error, the other down to a bad o-ring or similar manufacturing defect. This is the joy of radial plumbing, as the dozens of buried (enclosed) joints is near zero.

@Dreadnaught may know one?

Both. All hope just got dashed. News-flash, wood absorbs moisture.......... Can't wait for the 20mm gaps when it dries out in the summer......... Will be like a saloon door in the wild west then. Builder gave a full refund so he could walk away without any damage to his reputation. Surprised he didn't garnish it with a credit. Please......... nobody 'like' this post, thanks. @-rick- you sir are a legend, god bless you and all who sail in you.

Embedded means when you cannot get to them afterwards without destruction of property (kinda thing). I could send you the regs, but it's late and I can't be arsed to write my version. You'll not be turned by simple folk such as myself, so barrier it is.

You just pressurised the house pipework most likely. You need to follow the last instructions and do this again to find out if the vessel is RIP.

Typing in my spare time, so to add that all these finger in the air designs are then backed up accordingly, after I submit what I want installed, and they (chosen commission agents or manufacturers) come back with green lights all the way, hence the SCOP of mid 5’s I mention above. You don’t actually need the numbers as the physics basically overrule in every case, x amount of heat loss requires the same to maintain 21°, so the heat pump will push that out as required. It shall take no more. As long as you’ve not oversized then pipe centres are pretty much as you please, I’ve done 100mm cc and @JohnMo has his sending postcards to each other, one with a buffer and his without, both performing extremely well / efficiently etc.

Why not just Hep2o?

Usually just proper duct tape, much as that may feel to be a bodge it isn't. Some duct will require a female adaptor, so the duct can slide inside, and others vice-versa, so you'll need to get exact sizes and compare the products internal and external dimensions to be sure Jack will fit into Jill.

I'm your man

You won't really have any option tbf, and the EPS is far friendlier to make a trough into. Then you have zero requirement for cutting or faffing with the PIR, which is a PITA to do. This is what happens when you are left in a room on your own with excess time, to start imagining things which are just never going to actually happen....... Snap out of it!!!! Conduit or duct for cables, yes, and I do these with 32mm or 40mm waste pipe, with a pair of 45's each end to soften the bend radii. 10mm T&E will zoom down a 32mm pipe (duct) with ease if it's from the kitchen wall to the island for eg, but don't expect to run this all the way back to the consumer unit!

Nope! This is wrong. The taps needed to be left open for the entire duration, so the bladder in the vessel was at its relaxed state. The pre-charge pressure expands the bladder like a balloon, so if you look into the open end of a brand new unit, you'll be able to poke your finger in and feel the bladder pressing up against where the water enters. What you do is open the hot taps and leave then open to fully deplete any pressure in the hot cylinder, then keep pumping until one of two things happens; a) you get the pressure to begin to rise, and you keep going to the required pressure (3 bar for eg), or b) you just keep pumping and the pressure doesn't ever get there. a) means you've been successful, so get yourself off to the pub. b) means the pubs out, as you need the money for a new vessel. You do NOT take the reading off the vessel when the cold mains is on.