Nickfromwales

No. DC direct from panels to batteries, then that parallel grouping to an AC inverter. AC only house with zero conversion losses.

Can you tuck something like this up under the tile? Link That would get sealed to the tile with black CT1 / similar frame sealant and will provide a barrier from wind blown rain, plus a drip into the gutter that should solve the problem.

Yes, typically Fronius if DC batteries ( Solarwatt for eg ). Plus they don't charge off the grid at all, and are designed to mothball themselves at the lower discharged rate until the PV starts producing excess again. The downside with the Lux / A/C systems is you have to include them in your DNO application. So, if you can get ~4kWp per phase, for eg, adding 7.2kWh or 9.6kWh of A/C batteries may well get your connection refused. If you install D/C batteries then they are on the consumer side, not the grid side, and you can have as much as you like without declaring them on your PV > DNO application. PV costs money to install, yes, but I can't exactly see that these systems don't aid the core goals myself . I've just been involved in an NZEB build, which smashed PH, and NZEB, and finally attained ZEB recognition, with an RER of 37% and negative 2.3T carbon p/a...( in a massive 6 bedroom / 6 bathroom all electric dwelling), and that would not have been possible without the PV or the battery system ( plus one of the best and most anal site managers I've ever met !! ). Do they not look at the RER? I'm not sure what is actually in the PH / PH+ to do / not to do list. Not directly conflicting / associated with PH / PH+, but my point is the loss of at least 13-15% from an A/C system, if installing batteries, is easily preventable and more in line with that 'core ethos'.

8kWp would be ample, and as said you can limit the export with something like a SolarEdge inverter ( 12 year warranty as it uses dry capacitors instead of the weaker wet ones ). You’d probably be a good candidate for a domestic battery at that size array, even if you have an EV, as the house can fully utilise the PV + batts, and you can use the car off Octopus overnight / off peak selectively. Thinking a domestic system will charge a car has been what I’ve discussed mostly with clients lately, eg as in I t’s simply not viable ( 10kwh domestic battery vs 70kWh EV battery = no chance ever ) but they still believe!! In summer use the car battery for absorbing any excess in the really sunny ( few days ) we get and otherwise load shift off octopus / other for the known ridiculously high loads like EV’s. You can even load shift DHW off an off peak tariff if you size the DHW capacity to do that. Lots of ways to skin a cat. NB: try to use D/C batteries as A/C losses will fly in the face of PH+. Out of curiosity, why PH+? It gives you a lot of hoops to jump through that will require some additional spending to comply with.

If it wasn’t you, it would have been @SteamyTea that jumped on it lol

Crossed with the old boy.

You can set the lower immersion to do a purge once every 7 days, and that can be set to happen during off-peak times eg Octopus 5p/kWh / other similar tariff. The OP mentions an intention to employ PV, so the extra volume in the larger tank will be a friend not an enemy. The routine temp can be the cutoff point of what the HP will economically deliver, say 50oC, and that can be set to recharge the cylinder once a night off Octopus with enough capacity to not need further input for the whole following day. I would suggest that for the winter so the PV ( roughly 25% gross kWp over winter so no excess will be available after the household base / vampire loads ), looks after the house only, so ~12.5p for DHW per 24hrs. In the summer, halve the nighttime recharge time and leave headroom for diverting any excess, with the caveat that the OP would have to learn when to manual boost ( via the HP only ) for when the DHW is used in duress. Living with the system will quickly give a pattern to follow. Not at the lower temperature Check the MI's and you'll read that the capacity is stated at the typical storage temp of north of 65oC. The difference in heat energy between 50oC and 65oC over the additional ~200L is 'huge', but is the margin of headroom that you have to store any excess. That excess will then offset the amount of overnight recharge, so if you're clever you can play the numbers to your advantage. A smaller cylinder will have reduced scope for; 1) load-shifting, and 2) absorbing excess PV. In a time where you do NOT want to be exporting, even when getting Octopus's 5.2p/p/kWh rebate, this is a no brainer. As mentioned elsewhere, the smaller cylinders will have to be kept super hot to be at their rated capacity / delivery, so will have significantly higher losses.

They’ll all use the same arbor.

Yup. It's the one that's compatible.

The rules are there to make sure that installers are registered ergo they get regularly updated / trained and their knowledge of current legislation is refreshed accordingly. That is usually pushed by the Competent Installers Schemes and with good reason. I have considerable electrical knowledge and a background that let me become involved with things as crazy as nighttime helicopter approach landing systems on Royal Fleet Auxiliary Naval vessels, and more (!!), but I'm still not allowed to go to my neighbours house and fit a double socket if it is "new" or "notifiable" works, but, as I said, with good reason.......eg because if I do not know what a sub-standard or dangerous existing installation is / looks like then I cannot do anything to rectify it, or advise the owner of the condition etc, in accordance with current legislation. What we 'think' is OK and what IS OK are two very different things and cannot be left to stray individual interpretation. It should be standardised throughout the UK also, but that's in an ideal world. Just like we've had folk on here try to argue that they can undertake their own gas work (?!?), yes they can BUT ONLY IF THEY LIVE ALONE AND NEVER INVITE ANYONE INTO THE HOUSE EVER AGAIN. You are not allowed to put others at risk, only yourself.

Either way, use push fit not solvent weld !

Can you get a fall with 110mm? If so it's a no-brainer to install 110mm. 50mm will need supporting right along its length to stop dead spots where crud will accumulate ( especially with what you'll be sending down it ) so over 20m I'd not risk it unless you lay the 50mm on pads of 6:1 sand and cement every 300-400mm and then backfill around it and over it with dust / fines with at least 200mm of coverage as the pipe is brittle compared to UG soil pipe. If no fall, drop 25mm MDPE in and pump it away with a saniflo / similar waste water pump.

Higher volume tank = lower storage temperature too, so the ASHP won't have to work as hard = better SCoP. Capital uplift to go to the bigger tank shouldn't be more than a few hundred quid and worth the investment IMO. If you go for PV, you'll have loads more headroom to store visa PV diversion too ( subject to the size of the array and your surplus of course ). With you being an all-electric house I'd try and max out on PV, so get an application into the DNO now to see how far you can push them

If you find an electrician who can do that in 3 days, please ask him to submit a CV as I have a job awaiting him. Really?

Do two runs to the down-pipe, each collecting 2 sides of runoff so the duty is shared. Same cost, same effort. Just have an inch fall from the highest points to the outlet at the down-pipe, so half inch fall on each run x2. Will give equal height where the two capped off ends meet so will still look uniform.

I think the price they've given you is very fair for the scope of works included, and you have them on a recommendation. I would also allow a consideration for the fact you'll have only one company to deal with for all these works, so less down time repeating yourself and looking for other trades to work with the core MCS company. There is a lot of inherent value with this quote, and with them fitting the bathrooms too ( plumbing wise ) I think you'd be hard done by to find a cheaper ( value for money ) option. Why make life so much harder for yourself? As far as MCS and RHI are concerned, I genuinely think you'd need your head read if you strayed away from that. Your house will be to a good standard, but nowhere near passive, and therefore the RHI is a very attractive benefit for you IMHO. Oh, and their quote is £18k not £22k as the rest is VAT. Add the value of a recommended company, and then the turnkey solution they're offering, and this quote seems a good deal to me. Are they 'cheap', maybe not, but do you want cheap or do you want value for money?

But your probably pregnant now too. ?

Yea. That’s because it’s ordained by the health and safety rules and regs. Neigbours probably still on the same vat of water that first went in. Prob 92% chlorine now ?. Doubt very much that the other 8% is water though...... Yuk.

Bingo. Not just the rads, but the valves, particularly if they are prehistoric TRV's.

Yna rydych chi yn y man cywir. Dim ond ceisio darllen y pyst pan fydd eich sobr iawn

Twaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat.

Daughter said she'd been in the neighbours one with her friend, and said they were all complaining of sore eyes afterwards ( assuming this is where mum and dad just add more chlorine to dilute the fatty human juices and other such 'discharge' from nighttime activities after the aforementioned sprog was asleep....... ) Took said daughter to the local Esso garage promptly after, and spent £11 in the jet-wash with the heat set to the STERILISE setting. ?? Anyone who says they haven't "bumped genitals" in one of these is a liar. Anyone who says they change the water 'routinely' mean ONLY when mum and dad refuse to get into it because they need a claw hammer to break through the surface layer. F.uck that.

Link available to this system?

Male one end and female the other end. Just fit a cap end on the blank bit you wish to use as a support. You can also use brass 1" munson rings to go around the whole thing if that is easier?

Yup.