Nickfromwales

I thought the Shelly’s could be bought with switching capacity for direct connection to the immersion.

3 channels of Shelly’s is ample control and completely flexible.

Yes And yes. MCB’s aren’t usually used these days, as RCBOS offer better protection.

Simple fail-safe is to bridge L&N from the Shelly in(s) & out(s) in a local 20a DP switch (the type normally used to turn an immersion on / off anyways) and no heads go on any spikes If we do an UVC in an attic, I always fit the 20a switch in the living area somewhere, with a neon, and then the lady of the house just pokes that with her finger vs your left eyeball.

It’s down to the length of the cable, for voltage drop, and things like grouping factors, if run in a bunch with other cables quite tightly packed aka “contained” (trunking and conduit etc). You can hopefully run a 50a MCB in the primary CU and then fit 3x 16a RCBO’s in a secondary CU in the attic. Those each feed a Shelly, and then you use heat resistant flex from Shelly > immersion. You should use bootlace ferrules for the flex’s Link to make the best possible connections. How often do you think all 3 will be running? This is an all electric house with no heat pump? You can’t do this because of the high rating of the supply breaker. 32a max to a single socket or double socket or fused spur, fed locally via 4mm2 radial or 2.5mm2 ring. For eg, I swapped my electric shower for a thermostatic unit when I fitted a gas combi. The 40a MCB then feeding the 10mm2 cable got reduced to 32a (RCBO) and a BFO (60a) junction box went on the end of the 10mm2 cable where I made a new utility area. I came out of the JB with 2.5mm2 as a ring main, picking up 2x 1G sockets for the washer and the drier, and another for the boiler spur. You have to reduced the available current locally, or at source, to match the lowest current carrying cable in the chain; so you can’t have a 40/50a breaker directly feeding sockets or spurs.

He may have used a pump-up pressure bottle to inject, vs drain down and fill via a towel rad / other. Service guys don't like getting wet.......

1. Just start ringing local spreads tbh. 2. I'm no fan of taping and jointing, other than in a non-domestic setting. Plaster is the way to get the best finish, subject to the spread not being shite. Scotland folk often say that plastering is not common practice, so you may have to ring around a bit / lot. 3. Don't screw through cables or pipes! Select the correct length screws for each room.

Flexible tile adhesive. Always important to decontaminate the underside of the tray as they come covered in dust and mould release agents and so forth. I get a cotton dishcloth (old school ones are best) and use a bit of the tile adhesive made up a bit wetter and scour the underside of the tray until you see the adhesive wanting to stay on it. Then butter it a bit and you know it's going to stay put.

Ok. You’ll want to be able to push the tray side to side, lengthways, by 5mm (so 10mm of wiggle room), and to be able to have it 5mm away from the opposing wall. This will allow you to get the tray in, and to then be able to load all the gaps with clear CT1. You then mask the top of the tray on the 3 sides, frog tape or pvc electrical tape, and once loaded you push the tray towards the shower head end, and then back against the long wall, displacing the excess. Use (lots and lots) of cheap wet wipes to clean up the excess and then fill up the gap on the far end. Tool this into shape with a plastic packer and then peel off the masking tape. BINGO. Search wetroom and tanking on here and shower room for more info. And this may be a good read. Tanking the shower makes it bombproof. Been doing high end bathrooms for over 30 years and zero failures.

This person should have given you the correct solution at the outset, as your principal designer!! Another shining example of the differing levels of competency that are out there.

Only an option if you get permission to discharge storm water into the foul network aka ‘combined sewer’, otherwise you could be in a spot of bother if an issue ever occurs downstream.

Can you not use slabs? https://www.insulationuk.co.uk/products/150mm-superglass-superwall-32-cavity-wall-batt

You never asked for your 1hr free consultancy

Get the ruffled ones looking as good as you can, but don’t get lost in micro-detail here. You’ll likely look at them twice a year, if that.

Straightening these out with weight, and using something uniform (like the 5x2 timber weighted down) is the only cure for the others. Swapping out the least amount of the damaged unit is obvs the way forward, and then to weigh and bond that down then too. Once these are bonded down well, this issue will be gone forever.

You don’t have to fix the upstand with a dry S&C screed, as the installers just flick a few shoots of mix against it and it pins it perfectly in place. The issue of it lifting slightly, and the screed going under it, is very real, so to remove unnecessary risk it’s always good practice to fix it so it stays down and in full contact with the insulation or sub-floor.

Remember to get these tight into every corner as the curves and divots all need filling / foaming / cutting back etc afterwards; if you’ve not managed this by prevention, then it’s a LOT of time and effort to get these filled and made airtight with foam / passive purple / AT tapes et-al. Put lots of time and effort into getting these filled foam strips put in as tight as you can. I cut and stop / start where it’s easier than forming a turn with continuous strip. Zero detriment when you stop / start, just tape over the joint.

Sorry, I meant the dry sand and cement screed. The perimeter insulation is the same stuff from anywhere, just the colour changes. The differences are: height, does it have a polythene apron (for liquid), does it have a self adhesive strip on the back or not. Ok. If it’s a poured aka liquid screed then you’ll be best off getting the foam skirting with the attached poly apron / membrane. Self adhesive strip helps to just lay this out, but cannot really be relied on, so you’d end up with some kind of additional, mechanical fixing (staple / round head nail). Does the Clockwork screed company operate near you? They’ve just poured cementitious self levelling screed at my Manchester project, and they were the best poured liquid screeders I have seen to date. And we’re not the most expensive quote too! https://www.clockworkscreed.co.uk With nobody EVER wanting to do this twice, or to have to revisit it, I’d defo get these guys in. They mix and pour from one super wagon. A very impressive setup.

My preferred choice as my mate gets these traditional screeds perfectly flat and level every single time. Plus, he can manipulate levels for sliders etc which is a lot harder to do with wet concrete or liquid screeds.

That’s one heck of a wobble! These are original floors?

Just use staples or short clout nails.

2 sides contacting, or 3?

@junglejim, if you need to bump a thread, just post in that original one and it’ll jump to the top of the “unread content” list for everyone to see it again .

I’m on a job where the roofer installed 9 units, same type of skirt on a concrete tile. Consensus was to bond them down with clear CT1 vs use the poxy little self adhesive strip that Fakro thought would be storm proof…… The roofer pumped a load of goop under them, not so much that the CT1 oozed out and became visible, and used lengths of 5x2 with weight on those to hold everything flat and tidy whilst the goop cured. Afaic your fitters should have bonded these down, as you don’t need to be Einstein to see those stood no chance of staying in place by their own merit. The one that’s broken off you’ll need to replace, then bond that down also.

Nothing wrong with ACO’s etc at the above openings, that’s what they’re for! I’m currently helping a client model the openings for their new MBC PH TF, so I’ve suggested a minimum change of levels vs completely flat and defo sensible to be below DPC; mostly for melting snow and leaf litter etc vs rain. We’re going to allow ~20/25mm for the sliders, which should be ample to prevent ingress and not enough to be an inconvenience to step up / down / over, but for the front door it’ll likely be bang on level for access. For the back door off the utility, this will likely stay as a full ~150mm step. No attached garage, but if it was then I’d go level and bond down a proper storm / bump strip. The ACO’s can run near flat for quite a distance, you just choose the deeper profiles, or make a French drain under a decorative shallower ACO. Then you just make large holes in the troughs of the drain, every 1000-1500mm or so, to let the water drop down and out and soak away. You can also direct the upper ACO’s at raised sections into lower ones, but in difficult ground that doesn’t promote great percolation, you’d just put more rainwater gulleys in and have the ACO’s connect directly to those.