Nickfromwales

I’m allergic to apples.......

Texas grout line massacre? ?

Other option could be to use Wedi insulated panels, which you can build up in layers of differing thicknesses, to achieve the same result. DPM will remain intact as the Wedi system is watertight. Just foam around edges then, instead of pouring SLC as the SLC would bridge damp.

That’s going NOWHERE, EVER

The most recent one I did was the following; Cut out DPM, cut out insulation, foam insulation to block and beam, weigh down until cured. Then apply foam to top of upper insulation and spread DPM back on top until all in contact and keep doing so whilst foam cures so the DPM is bonded to the insulation. You could make a plywood baffle and weigh down if easier. ( Note, obvious waste connections done in parallel to these processes ). Then reinstate DPM and tape it up to death and back. Tray then simply laid onto plywood pattresses which were foam bonded to the DPM and then flexible tile adhesive onto those pattresses and tray onto that ( cleaning and preparation of the underside of the tray carried out as required ). Tray set into place and tile adhesive left for an hour or two to cure. Cardboard funnel then made and self levelling compound flooded into the remaining void under the tray ( nearly 2 bags in this instance ) to a) fully fill the void and leave the tray ‘locked in’ at all 4 corners and all 4 sides, and b) to mechanically support the trap ( which is best practice imho ).

They’re all much of a muchness. You may have to remove that one to see what you’re up against. Then ask manufacturers for the schematic of the new one to see if there will be any conflict. If so....voddy up, hammer out ?

I can make a call if you’re stuck. I had a guy out to lay and another to sand and seal on a huge job in Swansea. Guy was from Llanelli iirc. Floor layer is a Swansea boy.

Easy enough if you’re doing a like for like swap, but really it’s a 4 hands or 2 people job. The pipe connections will be fixed poking out of the wall facing up. Then the unit has its own supplied flexis which simply screw on ( 1/2” bsp ) and then the shower, most likely will have side fixings ( screw / Allen head ) and the shower prob hooks onto a top bracket ( which you can’t see ) and then gets held in place by said fixings. They’re fitted a bit like hanging a picture, so gravity bracket to free you up, and then fixings to keep it steady.

If you silicone the foam washer, it’ll spread and splay out as you tighten up. ?. Either dry fit it, or don’t fit it, but not both. Correct. Dry fit the whole thing and don’t over tighten. Should be fine without any help as that’s a good kit with the essential good rubber ‘under / bottom seal’. ?

Literally cannot leave you two alone for even 5 minutes. NEVER seal the inside. If the instructions say to, STILL DO NOT DO IT. The 30mm or so where the wall channel meets the tray is where the money is. You seal that with CT1 first, and whilst wet apply the wall channel ( with a freshly applied line of CT1 on the back from top to very bottom ) and fix it in place so all wet on wet with the sealant. Wipe off either side of the channel to remove excess. Seal outside of glass to finish. Lost count of the number of leak damaged houses I’ve been called to to sort out jobs where the tray / wall junction was sealed AFTER fitting the wall channel, with zero sealant between the tray and the tiles. School boy error to the max. Most instructions aren’t worth shit though.

Yup. Biggest bug bear of mine with those is the gap which crud gets into. Agreed. To be honest, if you follow the path that water would take, if it got under the top fitting, you’ll see it cannot leak out if the bottom seal is robust. The use of a sealant is more about keeping things from moving about tbh.

If going to the grief of fitting a split AC with an external unit, why not have a think about putting a second fan-coil unit on the landing / bedroom 1 for additional household cooling? The external unit can be sized to accommodate more than one internal unit, so maybe two, or three, birds with one stone. Maybe also consider an f-gassed duct cooler fed from the same external unit to lower ( or raise ) the incoming air temp via the MVHR. Might as well consider squeezing a one-trick pony for a few more tricks if not too costly.

Bottom ones shouldn’t need anything other than your absence unless cheap rock hard ( plastic ) rubber?

Don't buy cheap Check manufacturers details for comparisons on operating dB levels @1m

Makes no odds if you employ a buffer as you'll have a 6m head pump which will whizz around the microbore with ease, as it does right now. Change all the radiator valves if they're 15+ years old and that will help a lot. A good chemical treatment and a power-flush before doing the conversion is a no-brainer. I would go bigger with the buffer if you're not up-sizing ( replacing ) the existing radiators.

+1, and a split unit not an all-in-one as you'll need to be ale to dump the waste heat to atmosphere. Also consider a drain , or path for a pumped condensate to be taken out via.

Use the lower seal and ditch the flimsy upper one. Set the top metal part ( sieve ) in with some clear silicone ( I prefer clear CT1 / clear Stixall etc as it doesn't degrade like silicone does ) and clear the excess off immediately with baby wipes, lots of them, used once and discarded. Cutting off cured products afterwards risks scratching the metal and is a bit clumsy.

Don't they come set to fixed flow @ 2/3's power? Can't recall what the default is. The instruction manual to change the settings is best read when sober, lots of pictures and not much else. Try setting to constant power and see what happens, but the bottom line is, is are the returns all coming back warm? If so, then you may have no issue to resolve. Setting the primary bypass to a lower setting may help but these usually fire up out of the box. Fitted loads without ever having an issue. If the loops have not been blasted through with cold mains pressure to purge the loops of every last bit of air then that will be a huge impact on the flow rates. Has it been purged properly?

Original one was a cheapo-sack-o-shit, new one is a tidy Triton, hence the better flow rate. Adjust the shower head itself maybe for a spray vs jet ? The heads usually rotate to change settings ( the actual head where the water sprays from. Above triumph says otherwise

Looks a bit like the VERY early Warmup units. Why not replace with a modern unit? The wiring will be the same so you're not stuck with that This unit will replace it

You should be setting it to maximise boiler efficiency, but 55oC seems to be about the mark so the TMV on the manifold can operate reliably.

Shut off flow to all which are working and try to purge the lazy one/s through

To fire gas nails into hangers you need a positive placement gun not a regular gun

Double edged sword, as most rubber seals need the friction to stop the washer from slipping, rolling up, and falling into the centre bore of the fitting. I never put anything on a rubber seal ?

Ok, so we can rule out issues with the heat / circulation then? This sounds like the noise is coming from expansion where heat is entering the slab and the pipes are warming up a cold / cool screed. First for me. Do you notice the flow gauges jumping when these noises are occurring?