Nickfromwales

Yes, they are manual air bleed points like on a radiator. One turn or so max to allow air out. Water will come out when done, then close without overtightening. Pops and bangs? Can you elaborate?

Sorry I'm a bit late to this party @newhome, has been a bloody long day.... The rubber seals work well, but do NOT overtighten them Less is more here. Do not try to fully tighten one up before starting the other on the thread, so basically they need to be hand-tightened one turn at a time alternating sides until you cannot turn them by hand any more. Pinch them up with those grips / adjustable spanner, and when it becomes an effort to swing the spanner you are done. The spanner will not chew the chrome up as badly as the grips will. You can pinch it up as described and go turn on the water, see if it's 'all good in da hood', and if not just pinch and repeat until happy ( switch the water off each time so you're not fighting the tide ). Just turn the stopcock until you hear water flowing vs opening it fully for testing so if the shit hits the fan you have only allowed a trickle rate for damage limitation. Not much to go wrong here ( lol ) so should be job done and back on the Voddy's by noon

And if you put a vehicle in there, wear it will. IMO you won’t beat a good 2-part paint, but you cannot go “cheap”. Chuck a cheapo diamond grinding disk onto a 4” grinder and knock the tips off anything projecting ( significantly ) and away to go. Serious hardiness will be achieved when you apply a refresher coat later down the line and the layers build up.

You can also strategically mitigate against noise, or at least not make things any worse, by avoiding sound traps. Two opposing faces have always been a natural form of amplification ( that why people put both hands to their mouth to call someone ) so “free dB” which, in this instance of course, you don’t want. Siting the ASHP perpendicular to the wall for eg would be one easy way of reducing the problem, and another would be to introduce a living wall opposite it to absorb the sound waves. Small measures will have a significant impact, as as stated above the dB scale is not linear ( so small improvements will be largely worthwhile ).

The question then is how much less you’re using ( over the warranty period of the purchased equipment ) and hopefully you will at least break even at that point. That’s not a requirement though, as there is another factor to apply to that equation; Sticking two fingers in the face of the big 6 has a LOT of people looking the other way when the numbers are being reviewed / purchase considered. Plus the heart always rules the head. ?

Hi. If you are using your single size 12 for DHW ( domestic hot water ) then do not even THINK about connecting it to your heating for exporting stored heat energy. That will run flat in very little time at all, leaving you with zero useful DHW capacity. By all means connect to the boiler to heat the SA but please check the MI’s as you will likely need a pipe stat / other means of detecting dangerously high input temps which could damage the PCM. Usual to see a pipe stat controlling a zone valve, and for that to be used to arrest flow to the SA in the event of a failure of the boiler stat eg loss of tempering and boiler goes to max temp.

Only if you leave it to its own devices. Choose agile, babysit yours, and life will go on. Secretly I think you’ll enjoy it. ?

Is this a Welsh thing? ?

Doesn’t need to, because it’s not a greedy titty-suckling newborn baby from out of the box. ? Great if you want to spend the rest of your days analysing data and jumping tariffs like a good boy. Connect & forget with SW. Can’t get much better than that.

Please remember to factor in throughput. If you use the grid to charge the battery with any regularity, as well as PV, you are increasing the duty of the electronica and the cells, therefore reducing longevity. From what I’ve heard “on the solar grapevine”, that throughput is recoded by the PW and can cause a premature FO from Tesla if you go to claim on the warranty ( and have ‘exceeded 100,000 miles on the clock’ ) . Haven’t asked very recently, but add that question to your decision-making list Speaking to SW anytime now so I’ll update here on ETA of UPS / EPS etc accordingly ?

That looks a lot like you sticking your middle finger up.......

Which would suit, exactly, a system which minimises losses, and one that is manufacturer warranted to hibernate instead of grid recharge ( at random in the worst case scenario ) on whatever the energy cost is at that particular time.

And that’s how the zombies will find and eat you before me ?

If you EPS a single circuit? Or the whole house? YouTube Fully charged vid says and shows different. Ask more questions. UPS and EPS are two different things and not any supplier out there allowed to do differently as it’s legislation ( from what I got told by the manufacturer and a couple of quote prestige installers whom I’m in regular contact with ). I could be wrong, or misinformed so will confirm in a planned call later today. ?

I already added my disclaimer so you’re stuffed. The only thing getting locked will be the bathroom doors, with you on the inside, when SWMBO asks why your softly stroking your new battery instead of grouting. It’s ok to leave it for 5, it’ll still be there..... BUT, I would appreciate if you could throw some feedback on what it’s doing if poss please. ?

Tesla’s offering won’t alleviate shit. You’ll still lose everything and still go around resetting everything as there is a huge delay in bringing the power online through their ( additional cost ) changeover effort. ? Beware the web of sin, and don’t fall in

I f******g love you ?

Yes, indeed............ but, Lets all count how many problematic power cuts they've had in the last 5+ years, well, any type of power cut for that matter? Percentage wise, it's a micro-figure. Just about every offering is AC coupled / retro-fit and only some are incrementally up-scalable in sensible increments ( 2.4kW hikes ) to match the system accordingly to your ACTUAL needs. The Tesla is a one-size-fits-all solution, yes, you can bolt another on, rolled out for a nation of T-fans with a simple sales ethos of 'copy / cut / paste / repeat' and at 13.5kWh for the V2 you will need a serious amount of excess PV to warrant its purchase. If that has not had its fill then of course it will gulp grid electricity to maintain its condition / happy minimum dormant state ( and it's been well discussed that using the grid to charge a battery, with a limited lifespan, is not economical. It CAN be done, and certainly gets mentioned by my clients during discussions about storage options, but the maths just don't work out as you'd ( simply ) be better off strategically buying power direct from the grid instead. A 15% loss of overall efficiency is the first gotcha, just with the additional conversions from DC to AC and back again, but the sheer size of the V2 is the biggest design gotcha where you must be able to demonstrate a large amount of PV is routinely available to mop up with such a big battery. Limited throughput is the final nail in that coffin for me, because if you end up routinely using the grid to condition the battery you then start to chew into its life expectancy. Read the small=print Add to that the fact you can only charge and discharge that whopper at a factory-governed rate**, then it's like having a giant set of lungs but a drinking straw for a windpipe Can the Tesla be successfully deployed in a residential setting? Yes. Does it require a lot of thought and for you to do the sums first? Yes. Do people just LOVE the Tesla and don't really care about any of the above? Yes, and double-yes. Disclaimer: @pocster, this is not a dig so therefore this sentence stops you from giving me a ear-bashing SolarWatt are nearly unique in the way they work. DC coupled for starters, and scalable ( like Pylon-tech and a few other Chinese / budget offerings ) in 2.4kW increments, but the party-piece is the decider for me. During times of no excess PV availability the SW battery is warrantied to simply drop to its hibernate level and do just that....hibernate. No need for it to randomly steal from the grid to fill its boots, so about as efficient ( and simple ) as it gets. Also then very easy to understand its expected efficiency as grid load-shifting ( the correct / most strategic employment of ) eg when it becomes a necessity over the 'winter period' when PV is at 25% or less of it's stated output ) is not in the equation. ( The EPS function is on its way BTW!! ). Add to that a very clever BMS and a multi-scalable format ( you can add more command units as well as more batteries **which will double or treble the charge and discharge rates and it's win win AFAIC. I certainly wouldn't forgo those qualities and sheer robustness / elevated efficiencies to get an EPS I'm likely to never / rarely use.......bearing in mind that you have to be in the house at the exact time of the power cut to manually swap the EPS selected circuits over ( unless you further invest and pay to install Tesla's autonomous EPS changeover doo-daa ( aka expensive must-have ornament )) which has a 5+ second delay before kicking in...... There is a better way, but the DC has one Achilles heel ( thank f.u*k for that says @pocster ) which is it is not really suitable for retro-fit and needs to be included early on in the M&E design. End transmission.

Bored too....

Wise words. Different systems seal at different points etc. Funny thing water. Pisses out all over the place and ruins your day. What's your budget for flood damage? Deep down inside, you already know what the answer is

SolarWatt is where my money will be going. After the kids all FO that is......

Sorry @pocster, I did just piss myself laughing when I read the above. Sorry. Genuinely. ? I'm a bad person. ?

Dead man walking......

Only at 100W or so. Give the guy a break lol

There are now "silent" / super quiet models available too. Random example