Nickfromwales

Plus no G3 or annual service / inspection nonsense that you have with a cylinder. Of course, everyone “forgets” to spend £100 a year on somebody to stand for 15mins stroking their chin and constantly remarking “nice job, that.....”. Good luck when you go to claim on your warranty, and even better luck when something pops at full mains potential and floods your nice new house because there’s no expansion pre-charge left in the expansion vessel ??

Exactly what space do you have, and what exactly do you need to achieve in terms of water delivery and how you will heat it? Electricity only?

Completely negligible. You just don’t need the higher performing thermal quality of the PIR, but you certainly WILL need the acoustic quality of the acoustic rock wool. The rock wool ( at 100mm ( not 50mm as the PIR would be )) will have more than ample thermal insulation for this upper floor. Not sure what others would add, but maybe a foil on top of the plywood baffles would ‘reflect’ any downward heat back up. I’ll get my tin hat ready......

It’s more than likely that water has got onto / into either the pcb or the gas valve. Turn off the gas at the meter and get a hair drier in the case on fast flow / medium heat for an hour or two and retry.

Logistical ball-ache, plus you’ll still have to incorporate breaks in the screed for expansion anyway so 6 and two 3’s tbh. Screeders are used to laying screeds in whatever spaces are there, and they will typically use a 8’ or 10’ bar max normally as anything bigger is physically problematic to use by hand.

You do that regardless, to stop contaminants entering ( and later blocking ) the pipes, but yes, get them taped off, not capped off, instantly after installation.

At 300 c’s 18mm will be ample. ? Pointless using PIR as you don’t need the elevated insulation quality, but worse still is it is pretty much acoustically transparent. If it was my house, it would be acoustic batts. Also, the PIR is a pig to work with by comparison, and the dust from cutting it is horrific in closed spaces.

Doesn’t need to be a Landlord certificate, just a gas safety one. They’re pretty much the same form but just mention owner vs agent respectively which may be of relevance if not renting / letting out? If it’s a full new rewiring installation then you can just get clarity from the issuing body. For insurance purposes you need to be 100% sure that these definitions are correct. Or say nothing and cross your fingers.

Even in Arctic conditions, they would be fine as long as the pipes are taped and not capped off with a tightly sealed fitting. They need to allow air in and out for expansion. After that just make sure the pipes are fixed so they can’t become kinked at the slab. It’s VERY easy to kink them if they’re pulled / pushed on ( but conversely it’s very hard to damage them otherwise ). Blow down one and see if you can easily do so, and that will tell you that no water resides in them.

Years or R&D identifies that type of issue and then you design that out with strategic mitigation.

The Gas Sate Register is part of a ‘competent installer scheme’ and therefore IF the installation was registered you could simply ring them and ask. I would speak to the installer first, and explain how you wish to proceed, as they may well not want to head off ‘down that track’. There is no grey here, just black or white. They did complete and register the Benchmark certificate & notify the GSR of your install / or they didn’t. If they’ve left ANY gas burning ( lethal ) appliance on and functioning then they have put themselves in a very compromising situation. Not many GSR fitters would ever allow themselves to become so exposed / liable, so hopefully this is just poor comms and all is in order.

It’s subsequently garnished with 4 ( iirc ) status led’s, so, depending on the accuracy of what they depict, one can assume it’s definitely a good thing. Better than the original offering of grey-box-sat-on-wall-fingers-crossed-it’s-doing-something......... It still cannot live up to its claimed reputation for absorbing any and all ‘potentially otherwise lost’ / excess PV input etc due to the fact that it cannot absorb ANYTHING until it’s crudely scaled controller decides that it is wiling to allow it to do so. As proven here, and seems apparent in the new installation / user literature, it will always have a potentially huge empty void which cannot be filled when there is space to do so. I can’t help thinking that there is a better way for SA to ascertain a level / state of charge, but maybe the commercial incentive isn’t there yet to provoke further investment in this pursuit. Just my opinion, and can be taken with a pinch of salty yogurt.

Fit a combination or CO detector in there if you have a gas burning appliance. Post a pic of the document you have, but please cover any details of 3rd parties.

Salus stuff was the cheap / nasty end of the scale, but recently they seem to have improved their offerings. I would ring their Uk tech support and ask them which of their newer offerings has a non mechanical relay option, and is suitable for your application. You’ll need to tell them the current model that you have, so they know which voltage ( or volt free ) rating it is.

I still prefer a buffer / hydraulic separator to allow the ASHP to ramp up to max without having to worry about what the final heat load is. My 2-cents is you have the right configuration ?

Forgot you’ve got giants hands lol.

Pivot doors are the anti-Christ. Avoid like the plague. Depends on dexterity, but if you choose a slider with a big D shaped handle that should be robust, trouble-free and not leak one drop. Can’t speak for easy clean results as I typically fit these and then bugger off to the next job

Prob living on the fact it’s a lot thicker

Polyethylene is not UV stable.

That buffer only comes on when ‘heating on’ is selected and the heating is running, yes?

Welcome. Build method? TF / ICF / Other?

Does the house stay at an acceptable temperature throughout?

Hi. The stat you have employs a mechanical relay, with moving parts. What you need to search for is a stat that uses either triac's or SSR technology ( solid state relay ) to get rid of the click from the moving parts. My Siemens room stat is silent in operation, but just connects to my combi. What wiring / controls system does your heating have? Heatmiser / other?

This will have adverse warm up times regardless of the approach, but no UFH has a very quick warm up time TBH other than UTH ( under tile heating ) over insulated backer boards. I think I would still employ a structural deck first in any instance and I have done similar, many times on previous projects with 1st floor rooms over pozi-joists. The build up was; Posi joists at 400mm c's UFH spreader plates with 16x2 pipes, 2 pipe runs run void 22mm P5 2400x600 T&G deck board, D4 glued and screwed minimum 5 fixings per 600mm joist > board contact area 6mm plywood, PVA glue combed with a 3mm tile adhesive trowel for 100% bonded coverage, and also screwed at 120mm c's with 25x8mm screws Tile adhesive and porcelain tiles. Only complaint I had from the client was "how do you turn it down?" You're already at the upper-most part of the heated envelope so I doubt that space will need much in terms of additional heat input ( unless it's an old / poorly insulted and draughty building? ) when the heating on other floors are likely to also be running, so my approach would be to fit plywood baffles with the upper-most surface 115mm below the top of the joists. If following B-Reg's ( or not ) you may well have to install acoustic insulation batts to stop foot traffic / other noise from emitting downwards, so use that to kill 2 birds. I'd sit the 100mm batts on top of the plywood baffles which would leave a ~15mm gap at the top ( between the top of the batts and the top of the joists ). The spreader plates would then sit atop the batts and be slightly proud / distended upwards due to the plates being 2mm > 16mm > 2mm so ~20mm overall thus setting the plate upper surface ~5mm above the joist top level. Gluing and screwing the deck boards down will force the plates into the insulation and maintain surface contact between the plates and the deck boards, which is critical for anything resembling good heat transfer from water > plate > deck > room. I always screw and never nail, and after 23 years plus with zero complaints of "squeaky floors" I will be continuing to do so. You will need higher flow temps in the upper levels, vs the ground floor for eg, so you must make sure that for each discipline you have a manifold and blending set to suit ( so you can define the different flow temps to suit each floor ). Some will fit a manifold on the 1st floor and then run pipes down to the ground floor if GF space is at a premium, but that will not work for sharing the same flow temp between the ground and 1st floor from a single larger manifold, so a manifold per floor is the benchmark so you can adjust / fine-tune these flow temps, per floor, to suit.