Nickfromwales

That explains the grout then !

They’re both live cables ya nugget

They’d likely just fail it possibly with a recommendation to come back less the offending item(s), which would be free as you get 2 ‘hits’, iirc, before having to pay to submit again. If the amendments are not non-material and you have to come back with a full resubmission then you may have to pay the fees again. Panicking too soon isn’t healthy, just wait and see what they come back with.

I assume this is a typical ‘boat’ hot water system, but if there is no vent then I wonder how expansion / contraction, when the water heats up and cools down, is overcome? What temperature does the water get to?

Don’t fit usb sockets though, as that can cause issues when doing insulation resistance and other ‘dry’ tests

Ask your sparky first. A lot will get the hump, quite rightly so as well, if you start cutting and stripping their cables without prior ‘permission’. They are damn well entitled too!! Insurance, competent scheme costs, all the gear to keep and update / recalibrate, running a van, paying your taxes, vehicle costs and more. Why would they not charge you when it’s you that asks them to come to do work ?

One of these LINK directly onto the top, PTFE’d on, and then take the flexible grey ( poly or Hep2o by the looks ) further away, or possibly replace the garden hose completely?!?

Are these under warranty?

Fractional. Some, yes, but I would say bumping up ton15mm PB would would exceed that value, and keys not forget about a skim coat which also has inherent heat capacity also.

Ok! That’s a first for me, as all that I’ve installed have been the other way around. So yes, a simple fix and deffo the cause of the water hammer noise you’re getting. A quick drain down, spin the valve round, fill back up and then to the pub to celebrate. ?

“A” connection is the UVC > boiler return, not flow, so the valve is the right way around just it’s normally on the flow, so in the wrong place afaic. Looks like it’s not plumbed in correctly but I just cannot tell without better pics / taken from other angles. Can you upload more plz?

It’s not cost effective to pay for repeated drain-downs and plumbers visits. https://www.bes.co.uk/motorised-mid-position-valve-3-port-28mm-17392/ Change of £40 inc VAT !!

It's your age lol. You had your Horlicks yet?

Yup. The diverter hardly moves, but a mid or 3 position valve has considerably more travel as it goes from heating > heating & DHW > DHW only.

Jesus! OK, the valve is cream crackered. You've had your money's worth out of this one I'm sure, so time to get the plumber in and fit a new one. Do not just change the head, it's the valve body which has killed the actuator head and you'll just be in the same boat in a weeks time if you do. Problem solved.

If the location of "manifold 1" sees a zone / loop that drops down and then rises again, then you'll need to allow the air that will collect in that trapped section to escape. You cannot have a zone or loop that resides above the manifold height unless you cut the pipe, expose it, and fit an automatic air vent to it, as the air then trapped would never get to the factory vent on the manifold. That secondary remote vent can be done, just it would not be my preference. UFH loops air-lock very easily because of the extremely slow rate of flow, so beware how you design and install or you'll need to periodically purge any loops which get air-locked. That is time consuming and laborious.

The most important thing is that the manifold stays as the highest point in the system so it can vent air out. So one can do the rear and half of lower, and one can do entrance and the other half of lower for eg. Doubt you’ll need 3 tbh.

18mm pipes in a thin liquid screed would not be my preference! Deffo need the pipes at narrower spacing than 200mm too with a thin screed system.

If it's a s creed then blue strip will suffice. If a slab, probably needs an upstand of EPS or PIRR about 25mm or so thick.

Some say 5-7 years, others say indefinite. Best to ask the manufacturer of the one your considering using. Milton technique is more for GSHP I think, where the longevity of the glycol is a serious cost consideration, plus the glycol cannot be dumped into the collector as one ‘slug’ as it will congeal and not function / protect plus it will cause serious problems with circulation.

The NSBRC is well worth a visit, but you also have BuildIt Live coming to Bicester Oxford soon too.

I wouldn't use FC tbh, and I've worked with it / alongside it and seen just how much of a complete and total ball-ache it is to use / finish etc. The marketing BS WAAAAAAAY over estimates its capabilities to accept fixings for mounting items too. I'm seriously unimpressed. If you put a screw in, it needs to be piloted first or the 'meat' just tears out with the final turn of the screw, just like a really dense plasterboard. And the FST is just the anti-christ in a tub. Use FC if you absolutely must, but, for the love of the fictional character known as god, PLEASE plaster it!!! FWIW, strategic use of plywood for heavy items such as TV's, or Gripit fixings for anything else will suffice for most day to day fixing to PB, plus I do not ever advocate the use of 'white' PB anymore, instead I recommend / use 15mm sound-block PB as it is much more dense and accepts these types of fittings easily. Weigh up the cost of the FC system, including the huge uplift in installation time / labour / consumables, and that more than adequately mitigates the higher costs of the SB PB ( plus you get the inherent acoustic qualities to boot.

They always do groundworks. This is groundworks not plumbing

A wise man I once chatted this over with, sterilises the primary pipework before introducing the anti-freeze / inhibitor mix into the system. IIRC he uses a wheelie bin with a submersible pump and a load of Milton tablets. He says this gives maximum longevity to glycol etc and he has a lot more letters after his name than I do so I tend to listen when he speaks. How many people here have done that is unknown.

Seems PolyPipe after a quick google. 18mm will of course attract a longer / large bending radius too....