Nickfromwales

That was one of my biggest concerns when tiling over liquid screeds. The amount of movement was notable, particularly at the perimeter, and compared to traditional screeds it didn’t exactly fill me with confidence.

Prob best to clarify that in your response given the minefield of options here. Yes, have reviewed and discussed that with screed suppliers for two current projects, and as long as the subsequent layers above it are compatible then there is no mechanical abrasion to deal with. Priming, and the application of cementitious products only thereafter, as it’s just a modified anhydrite, seem to suffice. 15-all.

Mechanical removal of the laitence for one. Then the doubting yourself whether or not you did that properly ( before you lay a fortunes worth of tiles / bonded flooring atop.....).

He’s like a chameleon lol.

It’s like watching your first born take their first steps ?. Such an emotional time for BH as the father.

Lovely house.

Think that means 12mm binder over floorboards, then decoupling membrane. @Godley? If the 12mm ply is over properly fixed floorboards and that has been screwed and glued then you can tile straight onto that as long as you fully bed the ply and butter the backs of the tiles.

Due to the very high number of cracked tiles to fully failing floors that I have seen / had to re-do over the years. I always fit a plywood layer or a decoupling membrane in these instances ( over joists + timber deck ) and have never had one fail. The highest fail rate has been on poorly affixed P5 which has been nailed down, so maybe your diligence with how you fix the deck down prior to tiling / noggins on joints maybe (?) has been the key to your individual success. Others I've come across have at least had tiles which have cracked in the location of the deck board joints, or worse.

You're very lucky in that case.

Run ducts and pull cables in later if possible. If you pull cables in now you'll need to run 10mm2 to be sure you have sufficient capacity. Also you'll need to run the duct / cables to where you can glean, retrospectively, the required amount of current. This is usually from the meter, or cutting into the CU tails at the CU. Thought, and proper planning required here

?

Did the OP state there was work needing rectifying during the comms where they both went their separate ways? • If yes, and the chap didn’t return, make the deduction. • If not, pay the invoice, without speaking to them..... ......because winding yourself up is the biggest waste of time and energy and simply not worth it.

Poetry sir. “As you were”....?

Run a 3-phase cable to one charger and a single phase cable to the other. If 3-ph is available then you can bet your arse that 3-phase fast charging will be the top dog. EV horse boxes will be about with BiPV panels and their own battery packs in the future. So will hover boards, and hindsight.

Will have a butchers later ?

No time to dwell. Get the tiles on !! ?. Top job, and you only had to pull one T*mpon out to get there. Da iawn cariad.

Fart > space suit.

That’s over £20 a slab. Count up how may will go down and make them a counter offer.

Especially not 2 of them ! We have put them in 'CU#2' in a garage with the 2 x 32a breakers spaced with blanks if there is any further significant loads in the line up. They're not cheap so just run the cables for now and fingers crossed. That would be far better AFAIC as if you don't intend to buy an EV for some time then there may be a chance that a charger you fit now in anticipation may be obsolete / unsuitable in 5-10 years time anyway.

I'll fly some across the border with my new 'alcho-drone' ??️

I’ll do it for £94..... +1 ouch.

Pretty much. TBH SA should have strategically hemmed that in as a work around to get these things stuffed to the gunnels. It's an expensive box to have laying around semi-utilised. My workaround is to size above the known requirement, which has not hit a problem on any of my installs to date, and the only issues I've had have been with 'Friday units' not working from day 1. The real bodge solution would be a 6-event / 24hr timeclock ( interrupter ) which bumps the SA every other hour through the daytime. ( IF only feeding via excess PV ). If no diversion, then a dual event timeclock bump at midday, in unison with a strategic timed event for midday top-up boost, followed by a full recharge overnight on cheap rate tariff such as Octopus @ 5p/kWh. Use those as a benchmark and elongate the top-up as required in line with however much more DHW you need to get you through an evenings cleansing of ones "back, sack 'n' crack" Disclaimer. Please omit "sack" as applicable

2 heads always better than one The only thing I don't like about that idea is that you beat me to it. Indeed, a plan is hatched........but still bloody 'orrible stuff to cut lol. Credits to the original author I'll get him next time......

Anhydrite has a residual laitance which needs to be removed over the entire area if bonding ANYTHING to it. Bedtime reading. Dry screed or possibly liquid concrete with small aggregate for me. Are you on gas or ASHP?