Nickfromwales

Sounds like you have the right builder Make sure there is always air tight tape available on the build, and hammer home the point that it is great for the membrane / airtight layer to not be damaged etc but if it does then PLEASE can the guys just put some tape on afterwards to repair / seal up any such punctures. Explain that the house will be AT tested at the end and that any and all compromises will become apparent, just some will be very hard to rectify at that stage. Best they know it's not the death penalty to damage it, but it will have huge repercussions for you if they don't just quickly fix it in the same moment. Also, +1 to the membrane being the first thing you see, with only the battens atop. Just refreshed the page and saw those comments. Probably worth noting a provisional AT test should be done before any boarding goes on anywhere. You'll be stuffed to fix it retrospectively.

Most trusses and pozi's need a bit of packing. Just been on a job with a giant cock who thought just screwing counter battens on without packing was a great idea. Second team who came behind him looked at it.......asked "Who TF did this?!".....and proceeded to take it all down ad do it all again with packers and a laser. Horses for courses.

More the merrier tbh, so maybe put a ground floor rad on bypass ( no TRV ) and possibly fit the other two with TRV's as upstairs is likely to need some thermostatic control but downstairs should be fine to heat to 'infinity' without control and without any nuisance.

Ah, gotcha Just electric plane the shit out of it and the rest can be taken out with the adhesive that you use to lay the flooring. ?. I would not use levelling compound onto the egger as that will be guaranteed to break up over time and the floor will become decoupled any drive you crazy. Best policy here is to over order on the adhesive to allow you to bed the adhesive thinly with a trowel where the planing has occurred. Use some SBR mix ( 25% water / 75% SBR ) to size the open chipboard first and really let it soak in and dry fully before applying the flooring adhesive. That will be ‘supersonic’

I’ve never risked it. I always use plywood as a base for tiling or levelling fixed down rock solid with a full bed of PVA, combed over with a 3mm notched mosaic trowel, and screwed down at 100-120mm centres ( 18mm vs 22mm ). Other tilers have been on the same jobs as me and theirs have cracked or lifted anf mine have stayed bombproof. Why risk anything else?

That would be at full wallop To have air con for summer and heating by air in the winter make this a no brainer. I think I’ll grab two of them now for my sons back bedroom and my shed/office, as in the death of winter it’s Baltic in there and vice versa in the summer. DIY in a day off a 13a fused spur, which is a huge attraction.

How long is a piece of string question as far as system design goes, but with that level of modulation I very much doubt you'd have any issues other than maintaining a minimum flow rate for the primary circulation pump. I would suggest that a single towel rad running in parallel with the heating load would more than suffice with that boiler.

Walk into most plumbers merchants with room sizes and window / doors / ceiling heights etc and tell them you need a quote for the whole house for new radiators. They'll size each room for you there and then in most instances, and be insistent on them doing it at the counter so you can make notes ( just tell them some rooms need ornate radiators and waste some time flicking through catalogues asking would that rad be ok for this room etc whilst you make notes ).

Hi frank. Out of curiosity, what did you build with and to what standard? Timber frame / ICF / brick and block etc? Please feel free to contribute wherever you are able to

There are strong arguments for remaining on / getting grid gas to but it needs a ‘bit’ more thought than……

Search this forum for info on ASHP's, there's absolutely loads to read What is your EPC rating? How much insulation? Airtightness result? MVHR? There is a shedload of info required before anyone is able to give you useful advice. Input please !

Ok. That’s fine. Can you just end this by fitting a 110mm vertical stack to replace the rising 50mm? Is the 50mm currently being hidden in boxing in which you’d like to keep at a reduced profile?

PEV is another wholly unnecessary item to fail at some stageIt will also need removing and become redundant if you get a combi A good quality thermostatic shower will run reliably at low flow. Run the pipe to the tank.

2 minutes a day, = 14 minutes a week. 14 minutes = average time to enjoy a pint. So, to go with an upstand tray I would lose out on 52 pints a year. F**K that.

Just seal a regular one properly? I only fit upstand trays in student / rentals. I cannot stand the accumulation of crap that gets between the upstand and the shower screen / door. Pita to clean.

Only if the footer is doubled up and you can get mechanical fixings through the moisture boards. Never have the bottom of the boards where they are not against the full run of horizontal timber work EVER. I never butt the tray to the studs, I always drop the MR plasterboard / other to the floor and then the tray goes up against that sealed and bonded accordingly. Oh, and reconsider green tiles lol. They’re a bold choice

Side with the manufacturer over the architect!! 100mm is much better. How much area? What costs uplift are we looking at to add the 30mm?

I’ve done a good few pool / hot tub surrounding areas with tiles, and always over a decent ( 80-100mm minimum ) concrete slab. Never had any comebacks. The preparation must be right before tiling, or the tiles are doomed, as if the slab cracks so will the tiles. “Excessive” may be some people’s wording, but skimp there and reap the rewards! Costs a lot more to do it twice I’d put mesh in if it were mine as it’s cheap and makes concrete work ridiculously robust. IMO the Ditra would cause more issues than it’s supposed to solve, as there are more cavities to fill or for water to the bury into and freeze, but it would give some protection against tiles cracking on a regular screed / thinner concrete base. As in all things, if you’ve a good trade on site the job is more likely to succeed and they can mitigate by making sure the perimeter has a continuous run of adhesive to prevent water getting in.

Use a dry concrete mix then with 6mm aggregate instead of screed.

How do you loosen a unit of energy? That'll teach you to pick me up when I'm head-fried and put the wrong kWh into a kW sentence

Go for tank fed, then, if you DO upgrade in many moons time, you just connect that to the cold feed from the tank and you get mains pressure cold to match the new mains pressure hot. Then you can just buy any good quality thermostatic mixer valve now and it will accept both gravity now, and mains later

Nobody is saying how thick the screeds are! ?

Run 15mm radial pipes back to a single manifold at the cylinder. Manage one lot of manifold related losses not 3 Your option would also have a huge detrimental effect on the delivery time to basins / sinks etc if the HRC was off / outside a timed event due to the huge amount of 22mm pipe aka dead legs. You only need the HRC to service high frequency low volume / flow rate outlets such as modern basin and sink taps. IMO just waiting 20 seconds or so for a bath or shower to get to temp is of little concern vs having to keep those runs warm too just in case someone wishes to bathe.

https://www.installershub.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Telford-Cylinder-Installation-Guide.pdf If the pump is used to ‘stir’ the tank then possibly yes, but in regular service I would upsize by at least 50L to mitigate. For the last one I did I assumed 180L would suffice but I fitted a 250L, but that was also driven by the PV array that was south facing and so gave them some extra room to absorb the excess via the diversion controller. I treat each instance as unique and size to the application / circumstances, but with a minimum threshold that the dwelling requires to get through a 24hr period.

I'd have run the group up the st void not the second Simple solution. Just omit the pug mix along that run and choose insulation in there instead.