Nickfromwales

Good prices and good kit the last time I used these people; https://www.heatershop.co.uk/electric-underfloor-heating-uk

OK. With an ASHP there is a 3 way DIVERTER valve, and with a traditional heating ( aka S-plan or Y-plan ) there would either be a 3 way MID POSITION valve. The diverter will ONLY allow heating OR hot water, eg never the two together, as with an ASHP there are pre-set temp changes per the duty ( say 40oC when diverter is flowing to heating and then 55oC for hot water etc ) so if I read the above correctly there is still flow going to the rads when heating is selected, and the rads gets hotter during hot water 'mode', and this is a brand new sealed and pressurised system? That tells me that the 3 way valve is either plumbed in incorrectly, or "passing". The 3 way valve has deffo been replaced and you witnessed that happening in person?

He's talking out of his arse. I've fitted new heating systems ( and fixed older ones too ) for north of 25 years, and what he says is a crock of crap. I've converted 50 year old systems from gravity hot + pumped heating, with pipework that looks like a rat-run with T's here there and everywhere, to new sealed and pressurised S & Y-plan and I've never had this issue. If the 3 way valve has been installed correctly, and more importantly WIRED correctly, then zero heat should get to any of the radiators. That would only be applicable if it were a gravity DHW scenario where the heating would get reverse convection flow to rads higher than the heat source. @graham1 The quickest way to solve this would be at ask your installer to put a gate valve in the flow to the rads, between the zone valve and the first rad, and then to close it. If the issue remains, further investigation into the plumbing layout is needed. Is this a 100% new install or a retro-fit new boiler onto existing pipework and rads?

OK. So assume that at over 4kwp you had to request permission from the DNO? Bear in mind that anything A/C coupled that is a generator adds to your total grid-tied generation / output, so, for eg, if you had a 4.8kw battery system and your 6.2kwp PV installed at the same time, you'd have been then asking for permission to connect 11kw of grid tied 'A/C coupled' generation. I'm not 100% sure where anyone stands adding this retrospectively or DIY / other, but it is ( technically ) something which you should be asking for permission to connect / add AFAIK.

If it’s doesn’t compress, fit the foam expansion skirting afaic. It’s an expensive mistake if you find it was needed.

Glasses it is then ?? I bought this one, apologies lol. Was the cheapest I found without ordering online. Select between 750w or 1250w or both for 2kw.

That doesn't have a timer. Plus, I wanted to go and pick it up and TLC had stock for immediate collection.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HE2CH.html?ad_position=&source=adwords&ad_id=398484945570&placement=&kw=2kw convector heaters&network=g&matchtype=b&ad_type=&product_id=&product_partition_id=&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=Cj0KCQiAip-PBhDVARIsAPP2xc3khvVfd48mNNgTValG50Kyv4thZANH9mbEjeij0EZKwHF5aat3PqYaAmcVEALw_wcB Cheapest I found. Bought one yesterday and very happy with it for the money.

3 days minimum, unless you're happy to put 18mm plywood sheets down and police the activities. Even then this is not a great practice....

So you’ll be fitting whatever she says then

Radio linked systems are quick and relatively easy to install, and just take power from the nearest source eg light fitting with loop-in's, or a socket outlet with a fused spur connected for a 3a/5a supply. Basically you can pinch power from anything as long as it's fused down accordingly ( if a higher power circuit than a lighting supply ). @ProDave, can folk DIY?

I am also a tiler ( past business for over 20 years fitting high end kitchens and bathrooms ) and have never used a cement board / backer board, unless the client has bought them and has insisted, and then I’ve charged for the total pita they are to cut and finish. I do not like these boards as there is zero give and they do not confirm to the substrate well enough for me. The screws are everything in terms of purchase, and you either fit screws every 100mm or at 200mm and bond the boards on with Sikaflex for belt n braces. MR ( green ) PB for me on every single job, and tanking in every area of concern / wet areas. No leaks, no comebacks, and just about to become 25 years of doing them with all my customers still having my mobile number which I’ve had from day 1.

Don’t avoid sockets, just create a robust method to install, so as to reduced / eliminate infiltration, and put as many in as you like. Use fast fix boxes Link and just feed the cables through 30mm holes dead centre of each socket box location. Then you use a pad saw / other to cut out ONLY the amount of depth you need, through the PB and into the PIR. Allow an extra 5mm of depth for foam to expand into. Once the wall is prepped for the fast fix box to be installed you can use a blank module plate Link as a dummy socket face so as to be able to temporarily fit the 2x plate screws and tighten up the fast fix box ‘wings’ and then level off with a small boat level. Fast fix boxes are loose until the plates are fitted and the plate screws fully tightened Then you can use a foam gun to fill the cavity at the sides / rear and the hole the cable comes through for a bombproof install. Use air block foam such as Illbruck pro Link and that will also create a very good mechanical fix too as it cures significantly firmer than builders / typucal expanding foam. The OSB method is a no brainer, it just means fitting regular PIR sheets, then OSB over those, with long screws through for extra purchase where you predict there will be known loads affixed to it later, then the PB ( in each critical area ).

By the time you’ve paid for materials and lost much more internal space, the insulated boards soon appear much cheaper eg better value for money ( imho ). A good dabber ( +1 labourer ) will put a lot of sheets on in one day, so you can economise on that cost by making sure materials are to hand, be there to clean up as the guys are working etc. I would only stud if a BCO had spec’d 75 or 100mm , but up to 50/60mm I’d be dabbing for sure.

Use a decoupling membrane and you can tile it in less than a month from laying it. Saturate it with a 50/50 water / SBR mix and allow to dry before sticking the membrane on, and use a good quality flexible tile adhesive and grout to finish. Concrete continues to absorb ( consume ) moisture whilst it cures, so if this is internal then I would carry on as above.

Cable behind on the bare walls, prior to the boards / IWI going on Negates a service void and unwanted extra depth. Dab is fine over the cables, but they cannot be in continuous runs of foam as that is insulation and would require down rating of the circuits / upsizing of the cables. Back boxes can be parged around and dabbed whilst boarding to mitigate infiltration.

Check out some of @nod’s posts on dot snd dab methods where continuous beads are formed by closely applying the ‘dabs’ ( which then all meet when the board is dabbed onto it ). Lots of great info on here, but the problem is that the conte t level here is huge so perseverance will be required.

Difficult to say definitively, unless more dialogue over specifics follows, but certainly it would be more compact a solution and therefore less impactful to the available internal floor space. An air gap is not your friend, unless you have detailed the joints and perimeters meticulously, as the aforementioned “thermal testing” becomes something to rob you of all your hard work, and even cancel It out in extreme cases!

I wouldn’t beat yourself up, as the tile adhesive is usually cementitious and impervious to degradation. The epoxy grout makes you a brave man and a good effort. Do try to ‘ram’ CT1 into every possible gap, forcing it in with your finger. Don’t panic about excess, as baby wipes get rid of it with zero effort ( just use lots of them once only ). Nice job regardless

After 9m2, iirc, you need planning permission for a ground mounted array. A great option if feasible, and we’ve done a few with great results. If the trees can’t go, your options are significantly reduced there. Also remember that PV will never offset or aid heating in winter unless you’ve a monster of an array ( impossible to get on single phase ). Can you get another 50mm of EPS insulation under the 150mm of PIR? Will be a better result and you can lay your DPM atop the EPS to keep it free from punctures. The 100mm between rafters is good, but also consider installing 25-40mm of full sheet PIR over the rafters to give you greater results by arresting the cold bridging from where the plasterboard meets the rafters. Pre-insulated plasterboard is a perfectly good option there, but I prefer to separate the two and stagger the joints. The same pre-insulted boards can be used to form your IWI also, ‘stuck’ with dot and dab but with a continuous bead of dab or expanding foam to stop thermal tenting.

I’m not a fan of going sub-tile-ranian, but that is a nice end result. I’m too much of a fan of keeping the water up out of the floor to ever go with that floor channel, as capillary action will deffo draw water down into that regardless of how tight the fit. If the glass will slide, there’s enough gap for water. May be ok ( for me ) if the floor channel was loaded with CT1 first, which was then duly displaced, but that’s one new trick this old dog won’t get his head around any time soon!!

Yes indeed. One was supplied by Porcelanosa , but the clients wife wanted nothing there for Uber minimalistic look. 3rd storey master en-suite and no kids so they just be careful around it. It was rock solid tbh, and iirc 10mm glass. If it was 8mm and flimsy I would have insisted on the stay bar or refused to fit the glass.

?. Pics show CT1 displaced, then cleaned off with baby wipes. Tres bien. ?