Nickfromwales

Unless the buffer tank is a 2 tapping version ( series ) then you'll need likely need a secondary pump between it and the 2 UFH manifolds for primary circulation. A 2-port zone valve to each manifold would be 'the norm' as the secondary pump would push past the TMV > manifold pump and into the loops when one calls and the other doesn't. If there is a manifold pump, then you will always get circulation through the UFH loops, what is not guaranteed ( dependant on the topology and plumbing layout ) is circulation between the buffer tank and the manifolds. Also, you should really be diverting away from the buffer for cooling or you could have a big condensation 'bomb'. Lots of insulation could mitigate against that, but, for simplicity, you could just parallel a 2 pipe buffer across flow and return and toggle that in / out for heat / cool with a 2 port zone valve. At that stage the requisite for the secondary pump may be done away with, as long as there re automatic bypass valves at the flow and return of each UFH manifold ( at the very end of the supply pipework and immediately prior to any control valve / TMV / other ). It's a tricky balance as the flow rte for the ASHP primary pump needs to be as open as possible to maintain the required rates, so a 4 pipe buffer is good for that, so you could toggle that in / out with a pair of 3 port diverter valves ( not mid-position valves ). The above drawing will not work as is IMO, unless the buffer and manifolds are immediately next to each other, and then its a bit tricky to say as there are 2 manifolds. At the very least here, you should have anti-gravity ( single check or swing valve ) at the flow of each manifold to stop the 'sucking back' you refer to. A few bugs left to work out here I'm afraid.

Having the boiler outside of the heated envelope is a bad idea, as the waste ( latent ) heat loss from all the connective pipework plus the boiler itself will simply go to waste, plus when the temperature surrounding the boiler drops, that ratio for heat loss increases significantly. Also, you'll likely need some type of buffer tank or low loss header to connect a low temp heating system, such as UFH, directly to a boiler. Boiler in utility, wine in cool room +1

Good going for a double glazing salesman ?

There is nothing wrong with the heater!! Don’t touch it. The issue is the heat is taking the easiest path of convention, which is NOT through the tank. You need to disassemble the plumbing and check the T and the connection to the cylinder aren’t blocked before doing anything more. This diagram doesn’t show a boiler feed T’d into the Willis flow / boiler return. Do you have some pics of this arrangement? Has this ever worked? If so, it could just be an airlock in the Willis heater pipework. Or a gate valve that hasn’t been reopened ( or has been manually turned open but the guts of the gate valve sometimes stay stuck in the closed position ).

You can get a 90mm odd one into a 100mm ( 4” ) stud wall.Link The thickness of the soil connection will rule the terminal thickness, but you can squeeze these in with a bit of engineering. Done a few with great success. The issue becomes one of sound ( noise ) transmission to the next room, and if BC are involved they may not be happy ( if they know about it ) so you’d probably need to double up on acoustic plasterboard on the reverse wall, plus stuff as much acoustic insulation in / around as possible, making sure you don’t cause any compromise with condensation from the uninsulated parts of the cistern. Grohe are bombproof, and the mention of moving parts / leaks is only relevant if you have a concealed cistern. The cistern in the frames is one-piece and never leaks, ever. All the components replace through the flush plate aperture so you can box / tile them in and not ever have to get to the frame etc again. Been fitting Geberit for nearly 2 decades without a single failure.

Concealed cistern + wall hung pan? Concealed cistern + floor mounted pan? Which one fella? ?

Wise words, softly spoken........

Should have asked which direction the heat is convecting. Eg it sounds like it’s heading away from the cylinder in a reverse direction vs travelling through the cylinder and back in itself.

I tried the same in my boys attic conversion, but it only improved the air quality and did nothing to move the heat. The problem is, to move air out you need to allow it in somewhere, so an equal sized vent or window on the ground floor of a multi storey dwelling ( coldest point ) with no closed doors between the two would be the only thing that would have any impact whatsoever. Also, if the outside temp is high, it’ll just pull that in too, so may well exacerbate the issue. I resigned to paying a few hundred quid for a free standing air condition unit which has a 160mm vent to atmosphere. That is great, and will drop the room to 16oC. Forget wasting money on fans, just get air con if it’s that unbearable.

I just use bi metal holesaws and a 32mm hole takes just a couple of mins tbh. Needs a lubricant / cutting fluid via pump bottle or aerosol can or the bit will overheat. Remember if it’s for cables you’ll need to allow for a piece of conduit or a brass bush so size the hole accordingly because making it a bit bigger after is a royal pita.

Which way is heat converting? You may need an anti gravity valve in the return of the boiler to the cylinder to stop unwanted ‘reverse’ convection.

Just fit 150mm strips ( or whatever the remaining gap will be between the omega shaped pipe troughs ) of 18mm plywood glued and screwed directly on top of the pozi’s, then for alu spreader plates ( 2mm ). Load with pipe ( removing sections of plywood to perform the crossovers ) and then you’re just ffl + 20mm.

It’ll be money well spent, and the guys usually go at it at a decent rate of knots. ?

But we know why now ! ???

Usually sat on something like Marmox to mitigate against cold bridging. Either way the packers need to be synthetic so they don’t bridge damp. Saw one clients build where Norsken fitted all the sliders on top of offcuts of wooden battens. Client cemented the remaining gap internally and I bet it’s sucking in moisture and cold like Monica Lewinsky.

Check if your insurance covers the drain companies attendance.

Lol. One shit more like That’s not going to do anything here. That’s a sink un-blocker

Time for the good old waterjet boys to have at it. Don’t bother with a plumber, as that’ll need sucking out not just pushing further downstream.

That was a short reflection ! I often lose half a day measuring and playing the plumbing / electrics / wastes / soils / ventilation etc on my clients builds and vary rarely get much thanks for it as it’s work that isn’t ‘shiny’ or ‘on show’. I agree that almost nobody knows about the safety zones, but I agree with @PeterStarck and that is where I run them. I just never fit them right into the corners, but instead fit them at the furthest extension of the permissible 150mm so ( as you will see with most fitted corner cabinet / end of generic wall hung unit ) the brackets are just inside of the thickness of the carcass, so at 150mm and just under you’re relatively safe. 6 and two 3’s tbh, between that or hugging the window reveal. If really worried you can run the 15mm pipes down through 22 or 25mm stainless tube ( like hanger rail as sold in B&Q ) as a means of mechanical protection. If this is your forever home, just take pics and don’t forget. Life’s too short.

The pans are much fatter at the base also iirc.

Taking that out is a suicide mission. The cement going into the clay will all expand and likely shatter the clay pipe. Get a proper janitors mop, jam it into the throat of the WC and hold it down. Then flush. When the pan fills full of water use the mop, lifting it up and then thrusting it back down rapidly, into the throat of the loo, again and again to punch the water through the U bend of the pan. That’ll have as good an effect as anything, and after that, if no discernible results are achieved, you may as well admit defeat for now. Remember that if you buy a modern loo to replace this, it will have the crappy 4-6L flush capacity so don’t get your hopes up there. Best route to maximise efforts first as last would be to buy and fit the new intended loo, and whilst removed use that opportunity to clean the pipes out with rods / other. Bon voyage!!

Definitely not a siphonic WC. Take the cistern off, replace the flush siphon, and that’ll get you through until the rooms re-done.

They put it far more eloquently than anything I’d have said about fitting one of these sacks of shit.

That WC is a turdmunchingallinone. If you can get a pipe to waste then just got that and a small bore discharge ( 22mm copper )?

https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/product/4377885970909317457?q=macerator+wc+system&client=safari&hl=en-gb&biw=414&bih=699&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&prmd=sivn&prds=epd:9412868297746174998,cdl:1,prmr:1,cs:1