Nickfromwales

Oh Lordy 🤐

That's a very big "no".

ASHP may not be the best for this, as there’s a lot of time taken to recover a cylinder fully, time where the heating isn’t serviced, as the heat pump will do one job at a time only. Are you completely averse to staying on gas for 10-15 years? A gas boiler install would save a chunk of change and still isn’t a ‘hideous’ idea / route to take. Depends on your priorities and aspirations I guess, and also if you have somewhere sympathetic to locate a heat pump?

Not cheeky, just daft, sorry. You’d need a second circulating loop into a low loss header, and a re-plumb, as you’re reliant on the HP for circulating the water. Note that the Willis are 15mm too, so cannot simply ‘go inline’ as it would choke the flow. Whenever I fit Willis I always fit 2 so the 22mm flow goes through “30mm” of Willis heater(s), which some goons just don’t understand or appreciate. Some say 1x will work, yes it will, but 2 is less than £100 more, can go inline, and will offer redundancy and fail safe. Jet is to plumb them hydraulically identically so they both see the same throughput; so one doesn’t bypass the other and so both share the duty. Mike……”No” 👎. Not needed, and your COP will be 1.

If you’re cutting limbs off trees and are super-pruning, then defo go for a baby chainsaw. Milwaukee do a nice one, but if you’ve already got makita batteries etc then Link

Get the family to safety, immediately!!!!!

Slates. Very expensive ones iirc!!

Is it heat pump specific? You need a particle filter as well as a magnetic filter to catch all types of debris.

Just lay a strip of hardboard and use duct tape to go up the outside of the profile and wrap it over the hardboard (or a good stiff cardboard) and lap the two ties over each other on top. Pour the SLC and leave to cure, then cut the tape with a sharp Stanley knife where the SLC stops and remove.

Double check that Of there’s definitely not one, then yes it’ll need an auto air vent. Do as the good book says, because if you deviate you’ll be without warranty. Don’t ring their tech support to ask verbally, if you decide you’d like to explore this intensively, and ask them by email; if they say to use glycol in the book but say you can omit it, you’ll need that in writing.

I should have added this. Thanks!

It'll need to be OSB3 to be specific You can't use regular OSB externally. So will be 3/4" imperial, which means 18mm OSB3 is the thickness you need. Not sure why you suggest 9mm board? This should form the sarking, so kills 2 birds. Membrane over, and away to go.

Based on what it's attached to, in such limited amount, basically. Provide a substrate that wont degrade, is impervious to moisture and movement, decouple them with a few mm of suitable mastic, and I don't see an issue. Happy for someone to tell me otherwise of course.

I use mine for tree lopping, cutting up scrap wood for the chimenea in the summer, and all sort of random stuff. Once you have tools, you use them.

For just at the column? I'd say not.

Yup, just wasn't sure of how much of a tight-arse you were

If fitting in roof, remember to have additional battens ready on site for the PV installers to utilise. They need to be stacked where the fixings on the trays are. See this for an example of a job we did, so you know what is needed

If you go for the terrible "droopy" option, I'm coming up there and there will be trouble "NO!". Whoever dreamt that idea up? Just done one project where it’s was sarking > membrane > counter batten > roofing batten. That is the way, and the light.

Whether we like it, or dislike it, agree or disagree, the manufacturers installation guide is the bible. Some dont stipulate, some do, some are happy with anti-freeze valves, which I opted for on the last ones where I had 'free reign', but we should make the OP aware that they need to check if they are OK to deviate. Me personally, I hate the thought of glycol. No need for it, but there is always the power cut in the arse of winter to consider as worst-case.

Not saying we shouldn't Look at what we promote here, with everyone contributing to help the next chap. "Can" is down to cost, "Niche" comes with a price tag, and often the goal not being achieved by corner-cutting or commercial bean-counting, or lazy trades getting a newer, elevated wage, to still turn out crap.

Bought both of mine used. Have beat the life out of them since, still going strong and refuse to die. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/177846701855?_skw=makita+18v+recip&epid=7003305250&itmmeta=01KH4VPDFDKDMYENZNNM2W9712&hash=item29687d4f1f%3Ag%3A0ycAAeSwPE9piN9A&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xB511a3Nv7c0HhXl3iul7XiW%2BjrfdGUbP3ok1JeJn9jnZE4f0etcNloT%2Bx0jyb73fuAzKXCiT5n4J%2F9hC9nnnIXzhquKe%2BSdaCaECS8OjnpBmaOEGsJ6YuCOO%2BMoUR0vWn7wOzjc7iAf%2FpqoAnNzNDFlZYUSUE4s2me0RQqveFzSh690IMD3plfNX53yQuQtbUBPrGHdvO%2Fh5x9t7GxazIBgsRPeQdZzHc9P9OuJni1GRHY7%2FDSE2O%2Fo1Cnx9lmu0g%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_7X2ZuJZw&LH_ItemCondition=3000

Not if the ASHP manufacturer states that it is mandatory, in the MI’s.

These 2 are supposed to be the other way around, so you can clean / service / replace the double check valve by turning the stopcock off. Should be a quick swap with just a spanner.

Nice work. You need to tee into the hard cold mains feed and connect this part of the “filling loop”. Don’t use softened water. That filling loop is how you fill the heating system. Fill and test for leaks without treating it, check for the next 48/72 hrs to be certain you’re kosher, and only then do you put the glycol in.

Tres Bien, Rodney.