Nickfromwales

Wait until they go on holiday, and then order 40t of hardcore to be ‘gifted’ upon their driveway. A gift once recounted by a few B&B owners who decided to club together and buy one old hag a ‘present’ for slagging all the other B&B’s in her street off anonymously on ratings sites, and then telling someone who then decided to share her secret. Bingo Bango. 👊.

How long a pipe do I need to access volcanic heat from the earths core? Just asking for a friend…..

Hire a proper cyclone vacuum, as they have the various staged filters for fine dust, otherwise you’ll be cleaning those baby vacuums out every 15-20 mins.

Yanks and Aussie off-grinders bury decommissioned fuel tanker trailers as thermal stores for summer harvest / winter yield, so absolutely can and is being done. Would need to be massive to succeed, but temps of countries that have done this must be of relevance?

I think everyone on here should sponsor you with £1 to fund it, and see what happens 👍.

You can get 80+ out of a split I suppose the thoughts were aligned with how ‘we’ charge a passive raft with heat here, just the slight issue of additional waste heat losses from the TS become a deciding factor. Could still reap benefits from a dwelling which has PV + ASHP but little or no medium to store heat energy for slow release. The TS may well be a good candidate if you went with a low-temp monoblock ASHP, and have already installed smaller radiators? If for space heating only, consider no TS, just a small buffer, a high-temp split perhaps?

It may just need the cartridge commissioning also. Installation manual will tell you how to do this. It’s quite simple, just needs a screwdriver or Allen key. 👍

Check if hot goes into the left side of the shower by leaving it go cold, then run it with your hands on each side of the pipes where they come into the valve. If right gets hot, it’s reversed flow.

I’ll be dialling my 2x hybrids back to absolutely zero export. 24x 360w Solarwatt panels incoming. Getting twitchy now. My electricity meter is digital, but lately I can hear it grinding away as it continues to mock me and my delays in fitting my PV. ”My day will come, my flashy red-lighted friend”. 😈

Leave it alone, and mummify it with HT neoprene insulation. Same result, less iffy behaviour. Go to pub.

If there’s glycol, drain down into buckets and pour it back in. And don’t let the dogs drink out of them ☠️

😂. “You got this” as the kids say….

Does your ASHP cycle the heating after a bout of cooling? If not, I’d say the 3-port valve is passing when ‘closed’. Installing a 28mm anti-gravity valve may also help as that is quite an adverse arrangement in terms of mitigating against such a problem, eg it completely relies on the zone valve to stave off 100% of the reverse flow. You may benefit from a zone valve on the return of the buffer to resolve this long-term. Are there gate valves ( isolation ) on the buffer? If so, try closing the return one and see how that goes.

It just gets tacked on with a few nails / screws and the plasterboard screws go through both and into the studs. An online example ( random grab ) LINK so you can check out their website to give you some ideas of the different products that are available to tackle this problem.

I will ask again. Was defo the case with the french doors. Thanks for that.

Rational windows are fully factory-bonded, which I learned recently. Smash a window ad you’re into removal / replacement of the entire unit. Anybody know if this is practiced by other manufacturers? I am told Velfac are not factory bonded units.

Yup, and that’s why we use the string where there may be a risk of it dropping / slumping over time.

The rubber makes a huge difference. I now use Killmat on any waste pipes over ground floor bedrooms / snugs etc as it works so well with the high frequency stuff, like water splashing etc.

Resilient bars are defo the wrong product, so I think you’re on the right path with your thinking. There are sound block rubber matting type solutions available, and I’d install that at the 6mm thickness, or 10mm if you can manage that, eg instead of the ply.

Off grid requires prediction / human intervention, that will never be out of the picture. Controls are only complex when you don’t understand them. Yes, ASHP direct to heating at first, and when the slab is up to temp ( satisfied ) the ASHP can run over into the TS / buffer for absorbing every drop of sunlight via that energy multiplier. Diesel genny would obviously not lose its cooling fan, just a 3-port motorised valve to toggle between that or the TS. Heat from the genny is incidental, not routine, and it’s waste heat if not captured. Can be further diverted into a solar coil in the UVC ( if it ever runs in the summer ), as ever, each instance is unique.

Absolutely. Apologies for the lack of info, has been a very long and arduous day…… EPS is cheaper than shoplifting so no excuses for not achieving as you suggest, eg 300mm all round aka passive raft / similar ethos.

You just wouldn’t go for a TS with an ASHP for both heating and DHW as the CoP would be out the window trying to get the stored temp up high enough to producer DHW. ASHP option needs to be at lowest possible temps for maximum CoP, so the PV in winter ( sub 25% of the same kWp in the summer ) remains effective. For every 1kWp of PV you should be aiming to produce at least 3kWh of heat energy, ergo a 4kWp array should be worth 12kWh of heat energy ( so installing a minimum of 12kWp of PV should get you, albeit conservatively, through a winter ) I would look to the slab as my thermal store, and incorporate a huge amount of thermal energy buffering at very low temperature. DHW should be via an UVC without a shadow of a doubt. Heating and DHW need to be segregated in an off-grid design IMHO. Generator for winter deficit should be a water-cooled unit, with that waste heat fed into a second set of UFH coils, or, if room for it, fed into a buffer cylinder that is shared between the ASHP and the generator. The buffer should really be a huge cylinder ( 1000L+ ) for bridging grey days where there is little ‘spare’ solar revenue. I aim to be ‘off-grid’ by next simmer, but grid tied for reliability / fail-safe.

Could I ask how you are eligible for this, as a new build?

If it’s just you, the plot, and a machine…… get stuck in Just keep doing a head-count of wife and kids. There would be very little excuse needed for me to hire a BFO machine and get cracking, and it’s got to be therapeutic too. Crack on, it’s not as iffy as it looks, just find out where the services are and go slow there.