Nickfromwales

Why not heat the cylinder fully from a ToU tariff such as Octopus Go overnight, via the HP, and then pump any excess during the day into the immersion to hyper-inflate the energy storage capability of the UVC. Nighttime charge to 50oC then reduced by whatever was collected during the day, with the boost from the immersion going as high as 70-80oC. You will get the better CoP with running the HP, but only at the lower temp plus you'll be cycling the HP on and off with the pockets of solar gain, which it will NOT thank you for. Once you calculate the wear and tear on the HP, PLUS those attributed losse of getting all of the HP components up to temp for each event, same with all of the interconnecting pipework etc, eg before it collectively then delivers premium temp hot water to give the stated recovery times, .......then the immersion route soon becomes a more attractive choice afaic.

I wouldn't do it any other way. Check gumtree etc for damaged / seconds 8x4 plywood, OR cover in Egger and reclaim it for the 1st floor installation ( keeping them as tidy as you can of course by temporarily fitting them upside down ). Basically, I'd find any way to make this happen. It goes underneath the beams too. Check out the Youtube videos from the company. HUGE improvement on a regular B&B floor. The 150mm goes atop the then-insulated beams.

Read what the man wrote people!!!!! Yes, every damn thing needs attention. Miss a couple of pipes / leaky mortar joints / etc and you are still going to lose huge percentages of the significant benefits of installing MVHR. During an airtightness test you can even hear the air whistling through a hole made by a screw having been driven in and removed, so every minute detail need addressing......"in for a penny, in for a pound" I'm afraid. You'll need to take the house back to its skeletal form to do this as well as it'll need doing. If you can only get halfway done, don't bother starting is the blunt, but honest answer.

yes, there are a couple out there who profess to be "eco" / "green" etc, but sadly the more I see, the more I get frustrated.

AFAIC there is only a downside to NOT doing the Beamshield. Another member offered up a link to a similar product, but that one did not go underslung as well as infill in between the beams as the Beamshield product does. Utter no-brainer with B&B as it is a huge lift in spec / performance and the mechanical handling is vastly minimised. Why buy cold bridging blocks when you can replace it with insulation?!

2002 should have been under the BRegs radar, yes, but assume at your peril! I’ve done exactly as you’re doing for a client who did not want to pay for excavations / removals / new concrete. Apart from the losses of a possibly non / not very well insulated slab, it worked quite well. That section ( about 20m2 in that instance ) just took a bit longer to heat up than the new extended area. The advice will always be not to router them in to your floor, but in absolute real world honesty, and if you can accept a bit higher running costs, you can carry on and do this if it saves you a chunk of cash. Not ideal, but sometimes life isn’t ideal, so go make the best lemonade you can out of your wonky lemon lol.

CVC systems Ltd have supplied, and sometimes installed, for the majority of my M&E clients builds. Very good service and after sales support tbh.

I can’t believe how long it took him to jump on it 🤣.

I’ll get right onto it 😎.

It may feel like a pita now, but if those pipes rise during screening you’ll be in a totally irrecoverable world of pain. Trust us on this one Do you have a screed company organised? My guy is absolutely mustard and travels. When they’re done you can paint it green and get the snooker balls out. 👌. He’s laid floors for other folk here. If you want his details, send me a PM.

I’d rather not have all the air pockets / voids / weaker reduced qty of screed caused by the castellated trays. These are the last option reserved for true DIYers ( to ease the install ).

That you can carry on a pickup truck so less annoyance of the neighbours also, with not having to get so many palletised block deliveries in

If you’re stuck with B&B, then do yourself a HUGE favour and install Beamsheild / other instead of the concrete blocks!! B&B founds are the anti-Christ imo, and the last thing I’d ever want is a sub-zero hoolie blowing under my heated slab in the winter.

Screed will get under the pipes as it’s being laid, even with sand and cement “traditional” screeds, and they will lift to the surface. You have one single shot at getting this sorted and if you do not take it, more fool you I’m sorry. I’m with Russell, rip the lot out and staple down with a few thousand staples. If you do this strategically you can leave the pipe down and slide the trays out. Do it section by sections and it won’t get out of hand. If you do not want to remove the trays then you will need to go to 15-16mm nail clips with the nails pulled out and replaced with No.3.5x35mm screws AFAIC as the plastic staples will not push through the plastic trays. Is this Perez-al-pert pipe, or JG speedfit / Uponor / other non lay-flat pipe? Was it like a spring coming off the decoiler? Sort this NOW or you’ll live to regret it.

Advertise it on the Marketplace here

You cannot use a DPM as they whole floor will need to be bonded. LVT cannot be floating in a bathroom for obvious reasons ( any gap will fill with water / damp by capillary action, even when bonded, so seal, seal and seal again! ).

Drill a series of holes and pump full of gap-filling expanding foam is my normal solution there.

Push the Wedi. If it moves you’ve still got work to do

Is there any timber behind the bottom of the Wedi panel eg directly above that timber? Push against it and see if it moves inwards.

The tanking?

UFH installer is just unfamiliar with anything low energy, it’s a common issue tbh with most not knowing what they’re quoting for. There will be next to zilch downwards heat loss over 325mm of EPS!! And the 50mm plus 50mm will mimic the 100mm concrete slab which most have in their passive raft foundations. Carry on as you are, it’s completely fine. How do you intend to fit the UFH onto the 50mm of concrete, and what exactly is making that ‘structural’?

The second inspection chamber can be smaller, 300mm iirc. They’re both “inspection chambers” aka “manholes” For main junctions they’re 600mm round or the brick rectangular existing ones as in your pic. Runs from any IC to a black or grey source need to be straight lines, or as near as damnit. BCO’s, usually, will not allow a 45 and much prefer straight line of sight. They won’t fail existing, so if toilet 2 is existing with the 45 before the manhole that’s fine, but they won’t allow you to add more to that afaic as there would be no access upstream. Where you wrote “soil vent pipe”, is that outdoors? Odd space? If so, can you take toilet 2 existing feed and carry that on in a straight line? Then have the new 300mm IC between the buildings, outside, with toilet 1 feeding into that IC in a straight line.

I routinely fit humidity sensors in each bath / shower room, above the door on the inside of the room, so that is not only automated, but also runs on until the humidity has deffo completely dropped / dissipated. Boost button in the kitchen, humidistats as above

If going through building regs, toilet 1 and toilet 2 will need to go to that inspection chamber, and that will go to the ‘manhole’. You cannot ‘daisy-chain’ from item to item, as it all needs rodding access at each foul connection eg you need to be able to rod from an IC to each vertically rising SVP ( to a W/C / kitchen sink / ( black or grey waste discharge ) basically anything which takes ‘solids’ or food waste. The rule doesn’t always apply where it is just a shower / bath / basin. Why are the runs shown in the footprint of the build and not going outside ( around the building ) to the manhole? Access issues?

The diamond is a clever “offset centre”, so if you lift and rotate 180 degrees you’ll miss the joist