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About Luke1

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  1. The house is far from air tight so I do not believe further ventilation will be necessary unless I can improve the airtightness first! Hopefully VOCs will be minimised where I am using natural products as far as possible.
  2. I run this at my current place on a Raspberry Pi, however as you say its very DIY. The software is opensource and as such it is evolving really quickly. A new release is made every month with new features and usually a number of breaking changes. If you are willing to maintain and update continuously, then this could be a good route. Especially if you are into a fully customised setup. I personally plan to run this software when my renovation project is complete, however I will be doing it to link various other smart home appliances rather than running them natively from Home Assistant. IE. I may use Phillips Hue bulbs with a Hue Hub and integrate this into Home Assistant to provide supplementary automations or control from Home Assistant. A lot of people want to use this system to move away from 'The Cloud' to keep everything secure and local. I personally am happy to use a combination because if my Home Assistant software were to fail, I still want to have working lights through their hub. My personal use case at the moment is across lightning and Sonos speakers. There is an integration to give me Air Play support on Sonos speakers that don't have that support. I have a number of motion sensors which drive an automation to group sonos speakers in various rooms if music is playing somewhere else. I have also designed a 3D floor plan which can control lights and show the status of lights by changing how bright the room is on the floor plan. Completely pointless but a good little project during lockdown.
  3. Thanks for your posts guys. I went away and did a fair bit of research. I've now gone down a fully breathable route with Sheeps Wool insulation, wood fibre boards & lime plaster. Its costing a small fortune, however I have no doubt that it is the right method for the house. Now that I have much of the structure un-covered I've only found one rotten joist and that was due to someone previously blocking up a vent with some paving slabs to reduce the step up to the door. It was interesting to find the underside of the floor boards dripping wet, which clearly shows how important under floor ventilation is!
  4. I've had a 8KW Nibe heat pump specc'd with a full heating install as currently on electric heaters. Quotes have come back in S of England at ~£15k, so not cheap at all, however to the GHG people it makes no odds if its more than £7,500 as they will be paying the full £5k in any case. Currently its with the 'Audit Team' because the GHG people say its too much money and they are still considering it. Along with this they asked for a load of 'new' information that was already on the quotation I had submitted!! My application was submitted in January and still nothing! Also most installers have pulled out of the scheme now due to the time it takes to get paid. I wonder if it will be scrapped in the budget today...
  5. Thanks Roger for the links. I hadn't come across a couple of these before. I'll continue to read up and understand how to move on with the property. After all I am hopefully just here as a custodian to the property. Having said that, I believe it is important to modernise the property and with the technology available today I would hope that I can do this with modern materials.
  6. I've just bought a late 1800's semi detached property. It is of solid brick construction on the ground floor, with a tile hung timber frame 1st floor. The house is in need of full modernisation, some of the lath and plaster has significant cracks that were hidden by lining paper, and it doesn't even have central heating! So far I've removed the lath and plaster (what an awfully dusty job that is) and now I'm looking at my options to insulate. On the 1st floor I have a tile hung facade with a felt backing all attached to 4x2 stud work. I plan to insulate with 75mm celotex whilst leaving a 25mm airgap on the cold side, then fix a vapour control membrane / vapour barrier and then plasterboard & plaster over the top. I'm going to limit sockets etc to the external walls as much as possible to help prevent interstitial condensation through penetrating the membrane. Does this sound logical? On the ground floor I have a solid brick wall. It currently has the studwork from the original lath & plaster. Unfortunately there is not much more than 50mmof cavity space therefore I am thinking of using insulated plasterboard on the external walls. Is this what others would do? Would I need a vapour control layer? Finally, do I need to notify or inform building control about these works? Thanks in advance for any advice!