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About Luke1

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  1. It's also worth noting that the savings made by using a heatpump at ~2.5COP for DHW will still be cheaper than running direct electric taps & showers at a COP of 1. Also in the winter any lost heat from the tank will also be heat gain for the house. And in summer whilst the same is still true, the COP should be much higher than 2.5 due to the warmer weather.
  2. Well it seems like the Nibe controller knows what its doing then!! I'll continue to monitor closely and see if I can improve the weather compensation settings over time.
  3. The system has 3 pumps. A charge pump running between heat pump and buffer - this is controlled by the ASHP. Then a pump to the UFH and a pump to the radiators. (These are controlled by a dumb thermostat which I have set to a high temp to keep continual flow as you mentioned in another thread) The The house seems to sit at a steady 18C which is the temperature I have programmed it to. You can see as the house temperature is reached, it starts to dial back the calculated flow rate. I guess my question is, would the heat pump be more efficient if it ran at say 20Hz continually, or 40Hz for 50% on 50% operation?
  4. I've got a Nibe heat pump and I've been monitoring the cycling of it over the recent cold period. It seems to be on for 20 mins and off for 30 mins. It works by degree minutes and is set to start at -60 degree minutes and cut off again at 0. It usually gains a few minutes immediatley after as the flow temp exceeds the requested flow temp for a few minutes. It ramps up to 80Hz in the colder outdoor temperatures of around 0C and you can visibly see it frosting up, albeit it doesn't go into a defrost cycle. When the outside air temperature is around 7C it drops down to 40Hz Delta flow temp is in the region of 7C Would it be of benefit for me to alter some settings, perhaps the delta flow temp to get a longer run time at a lower compressor frequency? Is there any consensus on how often a heat pump should cycle for best COP and minimum wear?
  5. Do you not have a secondary meter next to your existing meter? This is what I have and it measures heat pump consumption only.
  6. If I read your table correctly, it has taken 4.5hrs to increase room temperature by 2.5degrees? If this is a UFH system then this seems very good in my opinion, in fact, even if this is for radiators then it also seems reasonable. Point 1 of J1mbo's post is very relevant. If the system is weather compensated only, there is a chance that the system is set to run at lower flow temperatures over much longer periods, and programming the heating to come on and off like a conventional boiler may not be appropriate.
  7. Those graphs are interesting. Hopefully I'll have similar data in a year to understand things a bit better myself. (I presume the monitoring has helped you make informed choices on how to programme your system?) I presume you have UFH and ran the heating at night only in general. I'm hoping my kitchen slab will act like a storage heater, pumping in heat overnight, in the hope it releases the heat gradually over the course of the day. I fear it won't hold the heat for long though and will need topping up during the day. Time will tell!
  8. I'm just setting up Home Assistant. I've managed to extract some info via an API from the Bright app, however this is only on overall electricity use per hour. (I've attached the kWh info that is imported into Home Assistant. I have a Shelly EM with a couple of CT clamps on order, which I hope to use with Home Assistant. They've just released an Energy panel, and it looks like I can use multiple tariffs to help monitor cost.
  9. I'm doing exactly the same. I may have to set it to shut off earlier during the week as the water is normally being charged whilst its used and then I end up with a hot tank that doesn't get used all day! There is a sweet spot though, to have enough time to recharge it sufficiently in the morning. Especially now the ASHP is going to be doing heating as well!
  10. No idea how I wangled it, but I'm even more happy with my 4.99p now! Before the recent price hike I did see an Octopus deal that was 5p & 15p ish which I nearly changed to! My E7 hours are a little strange though: Day: 0030-0230 & 0730-2230 Night: 2230-0030 & 0230-0730
  11. I signed up nearly a year ago now in a 2 year fix with EDF. I'm on 5p and 24p. So my night rate is very favourable compared to the recent price hike!
  12. I've had an ASHP installed this year, so fairly new to the game and can't offer much advice, but thought I'd chip in with regards to E7 tariffs. My tariff has two off-peak periods oddly! 23:30 - 01:30 & 3:30 -08:30 (due to change by 1hr when the clocks change). These off peak periods are 5X cheaper than the day rate so I've been running the ASHP over night during these periods to pre-heat the DHW. I have been heating my tank to 55C. Whilst I am getting a lower COP heating the tank this high, I guess that I am still saving overall as I do not need to heat the cylinder during the day at 5X the cost. I'm just awaiting delivery of a Shelly EM to monitor our electricity usage so that I can try and maximise any savings of the E7, especially when it comes to heating.
  13. Recently I had a Nibe F2040 & SMO20 installed. Whilst the recent weather definitely doesn't require cooling I would like to know if the system I've got can be used for cooling in the future. After quite a lot of research I believe it can, however some parts of the manual talk about an accessory being required, however it doesn't state what that is?? If I were to enable cooling to be permitted in the Service menu, would I damage anything? Are all the pumps and valves etc. designed to run for cooling as well as heating? I am aware that I would need to be careful about the relative humidity / dew point to prevent condensation etc, Has anyone else enabled it on their Nibe units?
  14. The house is far from air tight so I do not believe further ventilation will be necessary unless I can improve the airtightness first! Hopefully VOCs will be minimised where I am using natural products as far as possible.
  15. I run this at my current place on a Raspberry Pi, however as you say its very DIY. The software is opensource and as such it is evolving really quickly. A new release is made every month with new features and usually a number of breaking changes. If you are willing to maintain and update continuously, then this could be a good route. Especially if you are into a fully customised setup. I personally plan to run this software when my renovation project is complete, however I will be doing it to link various other smart home appliances rather than running them natively from Home Assistant. IE. I may use Phillips Hue bulbs with a Hue Hub and integrate this into Home Assistant to provide supplementary automations or control from Home Assistant. A lot of people want to use this system to move away from 'The Cloud' to keep everything secure and local. I personally am happy to use a combination because if my Home Assistant software were to fail, I still want to have working lights through their hub. My personal use case at the moment is across lightning and Sonos speakers. There is an integration to give me Air Play support on Sonos speakers that don't have that support. I have a number of motion sensors which drive an automation to group sonos speakers in various rooms if music is playing somewhere else. I have also designed a 3D floor plan which can control lights and show the status of lights by changing how bright the room is on the floor plan. Completely pointless but a good little project during lockdown.